does anyone know how to lower an 86 civic si i know the torsion bars but dont those only go down like an inch if anyone has any sites to buy things to lower it, it would be much appreciated.
Lowering 86 Civic Si
#1
Posted 16 April 2013 - 08:12 PM
#2
Posted 17 April 2013 - 02:24 AM
When you lower your car, you're gonna need better struts... Personally I'd go with the Tein setup, but those are pricey (also on heeltoe) and then you have tokico illuminas, (hard to find), tokico blues are your best bet... But lowering it too much and you'll be blowing struts...
You may also look into cheddaj's top hats which also assist in the lowering of your car... But that's all just in the front...
If you want to do the rear, you'll need an adjustable panhard bar, you can also get that off of cheddaj...
There are two ways to go on lowering springs... Someone did some cut RSX springs, zakats, and man those are stiff, but you're lowered... And then there's the GRound control coil overs that are placed on a stock strut and essentially allow for adjustability...
I think that's it for now... The search function is your friend, along with the wiki on the top row... Hope this info helps
Wheels
QUOTE (RARECRX @ Jun 26 2009, 06:55 PM)
The ONLY BMW's I like are (Beautiful Mexican Women)
#3
Posted 17 April 2013 - 04:45 AM
When you lower the rear, the panhard bar length must change to keep the axle centered under the car. The stock panhard bar has not adjustment on it, so it is necessary to use an adjustable panhard bar.
There is a write up in the wiki on lowering the front. Long story short, you will need to remove the torque tubes, grind down the "key" inside them and replace the torque tubes in a lower position.
New, stiffer torsion bars are a good idea, but you should balance them with stiffer springs in the rear. I highly recommend using adjustable coil over in the rear (Ground Control) with 350lbs. rear springs.
The single best suspension upgrade you can make is to add a rear sway bar. It is also possible to add one of Chedda's locking plates in place of a rear sway bar. I prefer using a sway bar.
Scott
Form Follows Function
#4
Posted 17 April 2013 - 12:45 PM
#5
Posted 17 April 2013 - 12:55 PM
I had a quick question, could i lower the front of the car when i key the torsion bars more than 1 inch? i called a shop and they said it can only be adjusted lower the stock suspension to 1 inch lower or else i would need to buy new torsion bars only way they said. looking to go at least 2 inches lower than stock only in the front
Edited by 1stgenhybridCR-X, 17 April 2013 - 12:56 PM.
#6
Posted 17 April 2013 - 01:11 PM
Wheels
QUOTE (RARECRX @ Jun 26 2009, 06:55 PM)
The ONLY BMW's I like are (Beautiful Mexican Women)
#7
Posted 17 April 2013 - 01:38 PM
thanks the info, so i have the tein set up with new torsion bars ordered and coming in when its ready, but i would like to have it lowered by this weekend if possible, i dont care what happens to the stock shocks as long as nothing i need to drive th cars after the new setup (suspension/torsion bars/pan hard bar) is installed is damaged where i need more parts or same stock parts. this would be from now just for the look until the new setup arrives then i can push the car more, and i only drive it lightly mainly on the streets as of now. So would i have to have another part like the top hats? or could i get away it with if i re -key the torsion bars and drive it lightly
thanks
#8
Posted 17 April 2013 - 06:27 PM
You can also go like "KAKABOX" did and lower the strut in the knuckles to gain more shock travel
- fastcorner likes this
#9
Posted 17 April 2013 - 06:53 PM
Upgrading the t-bars to a bigger diameter DOES NOT help lower the car, it only makes the ride more stiff.
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#10
Posted 17 April 2013 - 11:45 PM
#11
Posted 18 April 2013 - 12:00 AM
Upgrading the t-bars to a bigger diameter DOES NOT help lower the car, it only makes the ride more stiff.
The larger diameter bars DO help when lowering the car. Oem torsion bars are too soft when lowering a considerable amount, and will result in easily bottoming out the shocks. When I first got my crx, I wanted to lower it, but was being cheap. It bottomed out very easily with the oem torsion bars, but as soon as I installed the 24mm units, I have never ever had a single bottoming out experience. That said, it did make the ride much more harsh.
- PowerWheels86 likes this
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#12
Posted 20 April 2013 - 01:51 AM
#13
Posted 20 April 2013 - 06:51 AM
Wheels
QUOTE (RARECRX @ Jun 26 2009, 06:55 PM)
The ONLY BMW's I like are (Beautiful Mexican Women)
#15
Posted 20 April 2013 - 08:22 AM
So if getting 24 mm torsion bars makes the ride more harsh and keeping the stock torsion bars is too soft, then what do u do if u want a decent ride without bottoming out or having it ride too stiff?
Like powerwheels said, the integra or wagon torsion bars can be used (in conjunction with matching torque tubes) if you dont want the harsh ride, but still want a little stiffer then oem. However, keep in mind, you will not be able to go as low as you would with aftermarket bars, but still lower than oem. Id say about an inch, inch and a half is already pushing it. Also consider whether you will be keeping the EW engine or swapping to something larger later on. If you plan on swapping, I would highly recommend getting at least the 24mm torsion bars (newer D and B engines are much heavier than the old EW).
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Tired of replacing/fixing your brittle plastic fenders? Wihttp://www.redpepper...showtopic=55674