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Lowering 86 Civic Si


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#1
1986hondacivicsi

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does anyone know how to lower an 86 civic si i know the torsion bars but dont those only go down like an inch if anyone has any sites to buy things to lower it, it would be much appreciated.



#2
PowerWheels86

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Heeltoeauto.com sells torsion bars to help lower your car.. Well they make your suspension more stiff... But when you key them yourself you essentially lower your car...

When you lower your car, you're gonna need better struts... Personally I'd go with the Tein setup, but those are pricey (also on heeltoe) and then you have tokico illuminas, (hard to find), tokico blues are your best bet... But lowering it too much and you'll be blowing struts...

You may also look into cheddaj's top hats which also assist in the lowering of your car... But that's all just in the front...

If you want to do the rear, you'll need an adjustable panhard bar, you can also get that off of cheddaj...

There are two ways to go on lowering springs... Someone did some cut RSX springs, zakats, and man those are stiff, but you're lowered... And then there's the GRound control coil overs that are placed on a stock strut and essentially allow for adjustability...

I think that's it for now... The search function is your friend, along with the wiki on the top row... Hope this info helps
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#3
cbstdscott

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Just to expand<

When you lower the rear, the panhard bar length must change to keep the axle centered under the car. The stock panhard bar has not adjustment on it, so it is necessary to use an adjustable panhard bar.

There is a write up in the wiki on lowering the front. Long story short, you will need to remove the torque tubes, grind down the "key" inside them and replace the torque tubes in a lower position.

New, stiffer torsion bars are a good idea, but you should balance them with stiffer springs in the rear. I highly recommend using adjustable coil over in the rear (Ground Control) with 350lbs. rear springs.

The single best suspension upgrade you can make is to add a rear sway bar. It is also possible to add one of Chedda's locking plates in place of a rear sway bar. I prefer using a sway bar.

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#4
squareback

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Not really much to add. Just wanted to agree with what these two have said. Ask if you have any more questions.
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#5
1stgenhybridCR-X

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I had a quick question, could i lower the front of the car when i key the torsion bars more than 1 inch? i called a shop and they said it can only be adjusted lower the stock suspension to 1 inch lower or else i would need to buy new torsion bars only way they said. looking to go at least 2 inches lower than stock only in the front


Edited by 1stgenhybridCR-X, 17 April 2013 - 12:56 PM.


#6
PowerWheels86

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You might be able to go 2" with cheddaj's top hats, but to be honest, any lower than your stock setup, your struts begin to suffer with bumps in the road... Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure it's not good to rekey your stock torsion bars... Not saying it hasn't been done... Anything out of the parameters mentioned before though will cause another component to suffer.... But to each his own... I'd recommend the stiffer torsion bars at least, bare minimum... Maybe some 24mm, those are comfortable enough for street driving...
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QUOTE (RARECRX @ Jun 26 2009, 06:55 PM)
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#7
1stgenhybridCR-X

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thanks the info, so i have the tein set up with new torsion bars ordered and coming in when its ready, but i would like to have it lowered by this weekend if possible, i dont care what happens to the stock shocks as long as nothing i need to drive th cars after the new setup (suspension/torsion bars/pan hard bar) is installed is damaged where i need more parts or same stock parts. this would be from now just for the look until the new setup arrives then i can push the car more,  and i only drive it lightly mainly on the streets as of now. So would i have to have another part like the top hats? or could i get away it with if i re -key the torsion bars and drive it lightly

thanks



#8
1gcvcb18

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You can also go like "KAKABOX" did and lower the strut in the knuckles to gain more shock travel


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#9
NWClassicHonda

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Upgrading the t-bars to a bigger diameter DOES NOT help lower the car, it only makes the ride more stiff. 


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#10
jjamiemmark

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#11
KSousa

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Upgrading the t-bars to a bigger diameter DOES NOT help lower the car, it only makes the ride more stiff. 

The larger diameter bars DO help when lowering the car. Oem torsion bars are too soft when lowering a considerable amount, and will result in easily bottoming out the shocks. When I first got my crx, I wanted to lower it, but was being cheap. It bottomed out very easily with the oem torsion bars, but as soon as I installed the 24mm units, I have never ever had a single bottoming out experience. That said, it did make the ride much more harsh. 


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#12
mannyg0822

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So if getting 24 mm torsion bars makes the ride more harsh and keeping the stock torsion bars is too soft, then what do u do if u want a decent ride without bottoming out or having it ride too stiff?

#13
PowerWheels86

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I think wagovan torsion bars are 21mm? I ow there's a set out there that's oem 21mm probably integra, but the tubes are longer as well and will need to be transferred... 24mm is the smallest aftermarket bars you can get and pretty much the stiffest street setup you'll want... But remember, when setting up torsion bars weight, it's best to balance them with the rear spring rates...
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QUOTE (RARECRX @ Jun 26 2009, 06:55 PM)
The ONLY BMW's I like are (Beautiful Mexican Women)

#14
staticchmbr

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also, dont forget the rare monkeyztek rear coilover setup ;)

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#15
KSousa

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So if getting 24 mm torsion bars makes the ride more harsh and keeping the stock torsion bars is too soft, then what do u do if u want a decent ride without bottoming out or having it ride too stiff?

Like powerwheels said, the integra or wagon torsion bars can be used (in conjunction with matching torque tubes) if you dont want the harsh ride, but still want a little stiffer then oem. However, keep in mind, you will not be able to go as low as you would with aftermarket bars, but still lower than oem. Id say about an inch, inch and a half is already pushing it. Also consider whether you will be keeping the EW engine or swapping to something larger later on. If you plan on swapping, I would highly recommend getting at least the 24mm torsion bars (newer D and B engines are much heavier than the old EW). 


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