kamikaze_fish

It really doesn't seem like 5 years ago. That sedan in the pics....I don't blame you for missing it. Was a great car!

Hate to say it but I can sort of relate. The canadian hatch I fought a member on here for on ebay, then ended up with it when he gave up on it. Got it going nicely, then made a stupid trade that left me with literally nothing. The new owner then drove it for a few months and sold it to a friend of his for $50. A few years later, I found it on CL for $1200. I told him I knew the history of the car, explained to him a few problems it had and that he'll never get what he's asking out of it so I'll give him $200. He said no way. The crazy thing....all I wanted was my custom interior back. I even mentioned to him a few of the legal reasons that he can't sell the car. Didn't make a difference.

If at any point when you jump start the car, the cables are crossed, it can/will blow that link. If you have a meter and know what you're doing with it, check to see if there's a short causing that fuse to blow. If there is no short, then you'll be fine to go ahead and replace it.

I wish my old lowering thread still had pics. The torsion bars are simple. There's a nut you twist and you can lower or raise the car from that nut. It sounds simple, and once you've done it, it is simple. Also, you can cut the rear springs to lower it. I typically DO NOT recommend doing this for any car because it can kill the way it rides and responds to bumps on the road. However, when I did my '86 si, I had a spare set of springs in case something went wrong. After cutting I think, only 1 coil off, the car sat 1" lower. Or something like that. It didn't affect the ride at all.

Without the engine being mounted, 2 guys could lift the front of the car off the engine. It's a hassle but I've done it. Of course, 90% of the car was rust so I can't tell you how much weight reduction the rust provided.