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Newbie & New Owner Of A Sweet '87 Crx Si


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#31
PHAT87CRX

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Sure hope the drains are good to go for awhile.
Got the Tray cleaned out as good as I could while in the car with
a damp rag and a popsickle stick to get in the nooks and crannies.
Removed Panel and Deflector for access, looks good once clean.

Revised previous post to add Date Code info off the rims.
Any white ink stamp Date Codes inside your side mirrors ?
Thanks, was unaware Quartz Silver was a rare color for the 87's.
Down the road may get as far into mine as you've done Mrfixit.
Itchin' to get it driveable for now as motivation, lol.

For pics, need to choose an on-line image hosting site.
Lotta folks use PhotoBucket, I'm using tinypic, no account required.
Upload the image file(s), after each upload it gives a page
with link text, copy and paste and save the link text to your pc.
Then in a forum post copy and paste the link text into the post.

Edited by PHAT87CRX, 11 March 2012 - 07:18 PM.

If it's got wheels or tatas, it's gonna consume time and money

#32
PHAT87CRX

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Speakin' of "doin' a Project Thread", reckon I'm putting all this in the wrong place
as I see there is a "Projects Thread" area elsewhere here on the RPR Forum.
Can this thread be moved by moderators ? Or just abandon ?
If it's got wheels or tatas, it's gonna consume time and money

#33
PHAT87CRX

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Any CLUTCH recommendations for an '87 Si ? or ones to defintely avoid ? Just a good clutch for a stock set-up.
If it's got wheels or tatas, it's gonna consume time and money

#34
rollz87civic

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OEM replacement Exedy
SACHR member be hate for who you are not loved for who your not.

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Member in the Carburetion Nation





RIP GLEN

#35
millcreek

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Hey PHAT87CRX, The fist time I saw the silver CRX Si's was when I started working on Hondas back in 86. I loved the silver! I told myself I will have one of these. I drove these cars brand new "man was it fun" A good day for me at the dealer was getting a CRX SI for PDi, gassing it up test driving, back to the shop to install radio, speakers, A/C and other stuff that is GOLD dust now. Well I found my silver 86 Si back in 1992 - 85k (almost rust free) Started my resto about a year ago. I'm building it all stock- as close as I can get it. well I did change the tint of the silver. I was buying parts for a long time, should have gotten more parts. So many parts we can't get now. I am new to red pepper, good site I like it! Lots of cool stuff. I dropped a B18 in a 87 CRX about 8 years ago, painted it flat black with big brakes, gsr rims-was a cool car. sold it about a year after I did it. needed $ for other cars & trucks. Will sell silver one when its done, might drive it for a few months. anyway go with the Exedy clutch like rollz87civic says. Exedy is the only clutch I will use in my shop. Honda used Exedy in there cars and so did most Jap cars. Good luck with your Si Mark....:-)

#36
PHAT87CRX

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Embarassing question....... Driving after dark this evenin',
and no "dash lights" on the Heater Panel except the orange LED on the one selected button.
Are there any "dash lights" on the Heater Panel on a 1987 Si besides the orange LED's over the pushbuttons ?
The A/C Switch green LED, Instrument Panel, Radio, Clock, and Rear Defrost Switch were all lit up,
Unsure about what lights up or not from what it says in the FSM / ETM. Thanks.

millcreek, Mark, thanks, Silver was by chance, shopped price & condition, it's growing on me, 1 year only, right ?
Car does have AC, not working, and a decent '94 Kenwood KDC-7000 CD Stereo with 4 speakers.
Found the Stereo Manual online, lack the Removal Tool for it though, no longer available from Kenwood.
Gonna be tough to find a Removal Tool, been attempting to make one, a CD is stuck in the player, radio works.

Had it 11 weeks, got it on the road March 20, driven only 9 times, 207 miles as of today, ~57k on existing clutch.
Car sat many years, think maybe there's a small rear main leak from sitting that's subsiding the more it's driven.
Used to leave a couple drops parked in the garage overnight after driving ~30 miles.
Now no drops on the cardboard, just kinda a 1/2 drop on the "spot" at the bottom of the engine.
Wandering if it's just that the Clutch got some oil on it. If so, unaware it that "ruins" the Clutch Disc or not ?
Hoping the Rear Main softens up with use as it appears to be doing, and a new Clutch can wait awhile.
Will go with an Exedy #08005 Clutch Kit when the time comes.

Also new to RPR, welcome aboard, yeah, lotta good people and info.
If it's got wheels or tatas, it's gonna consume time and money

#37
millcreek

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for the dash lights check to see if the running lights are working? if they are also inop u might have a bad combo switch. if running lights work look at the dash light dimmer.back in the day I did lots of combo switches on 84-87 civics & a few dimmers. most oil leaks are the oil pan gasket. very few rear mains on hondas but the car is 25 years old

#38
PHAT87CRX

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All running lights are working, Park, Turn, Flashers, License Plate, Headlights,
and the Dash Lights Dimmer Knob is working. Think the Combo-Switch is ok.
Think I may have been looking for dash lights in places where there are none.

Is the Oil Pan leak typically in a common area, corner between the round and flat flanges ?
If it's got wheels or tatas, it's gonna consume time and money

#39
PHAT87CRX

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Fast Cold Idle is failing to work correctly.
ECu controlled Idle Control Soenoid Valve seems to working, faster cold start idle for about 20-30 seconds,
then it drops off a few hundred rpm, and slightly higher idle for 20-30 secs on warm or hot starts.

IACV is the problem, FSM says Idle Speed Screw should have no effect when IACV is open on cold starts.
Found that the Idle Speed Screw would effect idle speed when started cold.
IACV Cover Lid removed, Black Plastic Poppet Seat screwed all the way in, wasn't backed out that far.
Found IACV Brass Poppet was not opened with engine dead cold, but instead was still closed.
Apparently the IACV Wax is not opening the Valve when cold.

Debating wether or not to remove the IACV, dis-assemble and inspect the Coolant Cavity.
Anyone ever removed and dis-assembled an IACV ?

Apparently all different available brands of replacement IACV's found on the Internet and shown
as available for purchase from ~$50 and up are from the same source just different brand packaging
because all ump-teen sources contacted all said "Discontinued, No Longer Available",
even though they are still listed on the web sites, Crap ! Musta just recently been discontinued.
Or someone recently bought the (1) last remaining IACV that was in stock in the entire USA
and that (1) last remaining IACV was being marketed by all the Online vendors as a drop ship, Crap !

Wondering if maybe a Toggle Switch could be rigged to the A/C Idle Speed Boost Solenoid
and then it could be used as a "Manual" Cold Start Fast Idle Solenoid ?
If it's got wheels or tatas, it's gonna consume time and money

#40
PHAT87CRX

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Update:
Got the cold fast / hot slow Idle squared away.
Luckily found a parts car at a local yard, got another Fast Idle Valve.
Did find and replace a KINKED small coolant hose in the FIV coolant circuit.
The 8mm "Z" hose that goes from the Throttle Body forward to the Intake.

Have driven the car about 1,300 miles, runs good, fun fun fun.
Have done a lot of things to it.
No more water in the "trunk", Tailight Gaskets replaced.
Tail Light housings had 1/2" thick "mulch" piled on top of'em.
Got some of the "Fun Foam" sheets and made new gaskets.
Replaced the original shocks, March '87 date codes, 158k miles.
Adjusted front ride height, rides so much better now.
No wonder, dead front orig shocks, no bump stops, 1-1/4" too low ride height.
Replacing the PCV Valve & Grommet was "fun", man, tough to get to.
Re-Painted Black Krinkle the Valve Cover and Intake Plenum.

Since going stock, got low cost Gabriel Shocks, $68 all (4) shipped.
All (4) stock bump Stops were gone ! Do they crumble and fall off ?
Flushed coolant system this week end, already has a new radaitor,
but the Heater Core wasn't really "heating". Flushed it seperately
with a garden hose, eventually got a good clear solid stream thru it both ways.
Then flushed the Block and the Radiator each also seperately.
Removed and cleaned the Overflow Tank.
Back together filled with Water only for right now.
Will drive it a few times, see how water looks afterward, to know all is ok,
then will drain water and add anti-freeze.

What still needs to be done is replace the CLUTCH.
It still drives, just unable to really "drive it".
Got a new Exedy 08005 Clutch Kit and new Fel-Pro Rear Main Seal.
Been reading here, have Pin Punches for the "Bitch Pin", we'll see.
Sounds and looks like removing the Distributor for access helps.
Holding up the engine, use a board or a floor jack ?
Seems like a Floor Jack could get in the way when working / pulling / installing Trans ?
To pull axles, pull the Ball Joints & Tie Rods, or unbolt the front shock tops ?
If pulling shock tops, reckon gotta be careful about front fenders and paint
when shock tops are hanging outside the front fenders when loose ?
Gotta get that weak clutch changed and be able to really "drive" and "enjoy" it.

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Edited by PHAT87CRX, 27 August 2012 - 02:40 PM.

If it's got wheels or tatas, it's gonna consume time and money

#41
curtperry

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Nice looking rex man!

#42
maddog

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Phat87crx,
Glad to see you enjoying the car! If I couldn't get it glad that someone who is putting the time and effort into it, get it and have fun with it.
Maybe one day!!!!!!
Mark

#43
PHAT87CRX

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Had asked about "Build Date", duh, overlooked that it has 3/87 right there on the door jamb VIN Tag....
Removed original shocks all had 030387 dates codes on them also.
If it's got wheels or tatas, it's gonna consume time and money

#44
Mrfixit

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With original shocks it didn't bottom out at every bump in the road?

#45
PHAT87CRX

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Had been driving it easy, avoiding bumps and holes, yeah it did bottom out on the front a couple times.
Did feel sloppy floppy so shocks got moved up on the priority list even though budget was limited.
Sold some stuff, found a great deal for Gabriel shocks online and ordered them with the Exedy Clutch.
Shock swap got done first since it was easier than doing the clutch that has yet to get done.
Stock rear shocks still seemed to be good, still had pressure, but fronts were dead.
Also front ride height was about 1-1/4" lower than stock spec, raised it back up to stock spec in the FSM.
Rides much better now obviously and has given motivation for doing the clutch.
Will need to re-visit the shocks though since all the Bump Stops were gone / missing.
Bummer new oem Bump Stops from a dealer cost retail as much as I paid for the shocks.
Would like to get and install them while doing the clutch if the funds can be rustled up.
If it's got wheels or tatas, it's gonna consume time and money