15 replies to this topic

[Sinic]

Long story short on left turns the car wants to die. I don't have to be going fast at all. Just creeping into a parking space it dies.

I've read somewhere that this is normal for the webers but is everyone having issues this bad?

I believe my 32/36 needs a rebuild but how soon?
Checked my float level and it seemed alright.

Thanks,
-Ford

[zakats]

how much gas is in the tank? is it instant or does it take some time while turning?

[Sinic]

how much gas is in the tank? is it instant or does it take some time while turning?

Instant. Full tank or empty doesn't matter.

I'm getting about 3-3.5 psi to the carb.

I also have the 83 filter for my return line. I had the problem before I hooked up this. I like the small increase in mpgs.

[TexanIdiot25]

It's like your car has been bewitched by NASCAR.

[Sinic]

It's like your car has been bewitched by NASCAR.

Dammit!..


Float level is 35.4/51.4... if I'm measuring this correctly.

Plastic float.

[Sinic]

Turns out its left turns.. I dunno why I was saying right.

Any ideas?

[gtpilot]

Is it leaning out or flooding? Does it just go soft on power or does it sputter and gradually clear out?

Kirk

[Mark L]

Turns out its left turns.. I dunno why I was saying right.

Any ideas?

I have used the Weber 32/36 Carbs on various cars since 1983 and only had issues on very HARD corners. Are you sure it is fuel related?

Is it anything like this left?

[Sinic]

Does that float level sound good?

I believe it floods on right turns and sputters on left (if I'm on the gas). As soon as I turn left from a light, creeping. If im rolling in neutral it dies some times. As soon as I straighten out it clears up and runs like a champ.

Don't know what else it could be if its not gas. Second distributor, second ignitor, changed wires, plugs are good, cap and rotor is new.


Off topic kinda.. still learning carbs.

The car would flood its self the past couple days with the a/c on. I had the idle set at 1200 with the a/c on it would idle at 700 and drown its self.

I only turn the a/c on the highway and I turned he idle down to 750 and no more flooding at idle but the turns still suck.

[RFL85CRXSI]

Unfortunetly this is an issue you will see with a 32/36 DGV series. There designed for the fuel float to be mounted in the rear (mainly for an FR drive line). I mainly get fuel starvation on a hard left, but there are times when it sloshes away under a mild LH turn.

[87CivicDXguy]

Unfortunetly this is an issue you will see with a 32/36 DGV series. There designed for the fuel float to be mounted in the rear (mainly for an FR drive line). I mainly get fuel starvation on a hard left, but there are times when it sloshes away under a mild LH turn.

I agree with RFL85CRXSI in that I would only get fuel starvation on hard lefts and that these Webers were designed to be mounted 90 degrees of what we're doing with them... for the most part though, it was very daily-drivable and proved to make a very noticeable increase in performance and fun-factor (well worth the decrease in worse MPG IMHO) over the OEM Keihin POS. The only thing I can think of that you might not have already considered is that it just needs to have the emulsion tubes and jets removed and cleaned thoroughly along with an inspection of the rubber diaphragm on the accelerator pump inside which has been known to stick or leak a little too especially considering that the fuel we're pumping nowadays is worse than ever and tends to form plenty of varnish deposits along with other bad things too but that's a whole different subject. If your carb is good and clean and accelerator pump is good, I wouldn't hesitate to play with the float level a little and see what happens but don't know exactly what the drop level is currently set at on mine though... always worked to my satisfaction in cornering, rarely even noticing any hesitation or stalling, so I didn't dink with it!

[old skooler hatch]

I agree with RFL85CRXSI in that I would only get fuel starvation on hard lefts and that these Webers were designed to be mounted 90 degrees of what we're doing with them... for the most part though, it was very daily-drivable and proved to make a very noticeable increase in performance and fun-factor (well worth the decrease in worse MPG IMHO) over the OEM Keihin POS. The only thing I can think of that you might not have already considered is that it just needs to have the emulsion tubes and jets removed and cleaned thoroughly along with an inspection of the rubber diaphragm on the accelerator pump inside which has been known to stick or leak a little too especially considering that the fuel we're pumping nowadays is worse than ever and tends to form plenty of varnish deposits along with other bad things too but that's a whole different subject. If your carb is good and clean and accelerator pump is good, I wouldn't hesitate to play with the float level a little and see what happens but don't know exactly what the drop level is currently set at on mine though... always worked to my satisfaction in cornering, rarely even noticing any hesitation or stalling, so I didn't dink with it!

id think raising the fuel pressure might help
im switching out the old carb for a weber havent done it yet so dont really kno about all of the adjustments on the weber

Edited by old skooler hatch, 04 September 2010 - 02:52 AM.

[I Like Dry Toast]

Perhaps this is flogging a dead horse, but one of the things that I noticed when I went to set my float level is the odd nature of the needle. It has a spring-loaded ball on the end of it that, according to all the manuals I have, should not be depressed when setting the level. If this IS depressed when setting the level, the resulting fuel level in the bowl will be very low and it would be pretty easy to slosh fuel away from the main jets.

The reason I mention this is that some people report no starvation problems with their 32/36 in cornering while others report serious starvation problems while cornering. Could it be that in those cases where there are problems, the float level is incorrectly set and the fuel level in the bowl is actually low?

Has anyone taken the carburetor and rotated it 90 degrees so that the float bowl is pointing towards the rear? There is a reference somewhere on this board by an SCCA I.T. racer that hints at this, (without actually coming out and saying it.) If so, how was it done and how did it work?

In my case, I have a serious engine stumbling issue in sustained left turns. As soon as I begin straightening out the wheel the problem immediately clears up and the engine behaves normally. I didn't have a chance to check the float before the carb was taken apart and the setting was disturbed, so I don't know if it was correct or not. I won't be able to see if the correctly set float level will help until spring time. Meanwhile, I'm left to wonder if I should chuck the weber and go with an FI setup.

[F22hb]

I've had a weber on my gf's civic for about 3 or 4 months now and never have experienced this. lol maybe it can't pull enough g's.

[I Like Dry Toast]

I've had a weber on my gf's civic for about 3 or 4 months now and never have experienced this. lol maybe it can't pull enough g's.

I'm using a Gen1 CRX that is gutted, caged and has plenty of tire under it, (P215s.) I am certain it is "G" related.

The turn I have most problems with is a long increasing radius sweeper. In a car without power delivery problems the speed in this turn starts moderate and increases constantly with the car just drifting to the trackout. Trackout speeds are pretty high. But in this car, only when the G's ease up and the steering needs to be straightened a bit does the car stop sputtering and come alive. If I could have full available power through this turn the car would be absolutely flying at the end of the straight--I would even have to shift up before the next braking zone--but as it is, I just get to 7000-7500 RPM and then need to brake.

Has anyone (perhaps some of the SCCA I.T. guys) had a good road racing experience with the Weber 32/36 carburetor on an EW1/D15A2? I'm considering making an adapter to point the fuel bowl toward the back so that the carb will see minimal Gs in a direction that it doesn't seem to like. This seems like a clumsy solution, with the fuel vapor making sharp turns and all, but who knows? Is this the right track?

Yep, I Googled, Binged, and Yahooed the hell out of this question. I find lots of references to people that heard of...or read of...but no first hand conclusive information.

I'm also looking at a Weber DCNF. I've spoken with fwd Fiat guys and they all say these things are great, no problems. The Weber DMTR hasn't been made since the 70's and I've seen mixed reviews of these things on fwd cars. So I'm stumped. I'd like to find a solution with my carb since it seems to work fairly well most of the time and I've gained familiarity with it.

Clues anyone? I'm all out of 'em

Thanks,
Tom

Edited by I Like Dry Toast, 23 October 2010 - 02:17 PM.