greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's

This is new to me.   I never thought of it and didn’t realize it could be done.

 

someone removed their quarter windows and reinstalled w aftermarket rubber bulk stripping.

 

 

I caught this on an image of a car and looked closer

 

And closer yet.

 

This is from a 1984 CRX dx on BAT (twice now) out of Texas.  I’ll attach the link once the auction is over.  Picture of the BAT pictures.  A bit grainy.

 

I didn’t realize it was possible to bend this think of molding around that tight of radius.   This was done pre 2019 as reviewed from the first BAT auction.  pix taken from 2023 auction.   It takes skill to make those radii wo wrinkles

 

New to me.  Has anyone else successfully done this? Tricks?

 

 

 

I’m use to stock on my 87 has one white “hold down” clip underneath this area of the stock rubber.  I suppose they were able to cover it

 

Maybe rubber trim w an extra lower lip to catch the glass underneath to keep the rubber from slipping back up….

My drivers side seat belt jammed and stopped retracting a few years back.  Replaced w a spare.  Came across the old bad assy last week while organizing parts.  Opened it up to see if it was repairable

The ribbon spring split where the pen is pointing and jammed the assembly.  Thinking about it, I wondered if a passenger spring would work.  They are used much less, more plentiful.  So a better used part - longer future life.

 

The assembly is like a mower recoiled, but no pull string to hold the coil in place w/o unwinding.  Examined both drivers and passenger.  Drilled a hole in the case (before removing from seat belt base) grabbed the center spool w needle nose pliers keeping it from unwinding.

 

used needle nose vise grips to remove the recoiled assy w green spools.  Looking at it, it’s identical to passenger side, only inverted.  No need to uncoil and rewind.

 

grabbed and swapped the good spring assy from the passenger, used a second set of vise grips to grab and lock it from the other side.  Installed it into the drivers side.  Reinserted the needle nose pliers through the hole to prevent unwinding when release of vise grips.  While holding the needle nose on the green spool, align the entire assembly onto to the seat belt unit.  Once aligned, I removed the needle nose pliers.  The ribbon spring was fully retracted.  I wasn’t able to wind it any tighter to make up for spring tension loss over time.  And made sure the seatbelt strap was fully retracted.  Screwed the 4 small covers screws down and it’s back in operation.

 

The swapping of the springs took just a couple minutes.  If you let the ribbon unwind, it’ll be a pita

 

Put tape over the hole in the recoil case to keep it clean.  I see no way this negatively affects the safe operation of the seat belt.

 

These assemblies seem to go on eBay for $65-100 shipped/tax.  Pick up at least a passenger unit from a junkie as a spare for $10.  Mine failed around 250k miles

 

Sorted mine out. Have a set for MadMax’s car and 2 more sets for future show cars plus spares for springs.

 

good luck

This thread is an accumulation of different electrical problems I’ve encountered owning these cars since 1993.   How I’ve fixed them.  It’s a work in progress.  Will be adding/updating over time.

 

I always remember Consumer Reports rating the CRX “poor” on electrical.  I didn’t begin experiencing issues until after 170k

 

Several of these issues were solved w help from fellow RPR members on past posts

 

1) HVAC stopped working electrically

 

2) Intermittent starting problems - Main relay

 

3) Blower fan low speed stopped working

 

4) Fuel pump beginning to fail

 

5) Turn signal speed rate varies w engine rpm.

 

6) Cyclopes brake light and rear defrosters stopped working.

 

7) General electrical connector failures

 

8) Engine no start - distributor solid state

 

9) Bouncing rpm needle

 

10) Flickering dash clock, resets to 1pm

 

11) Alternator: brushes, voltage regulator, rotor failures

 

12) Sunroof not fully functional

 

13)

 

14)

 

15)

I had conversation w a member years ago about our cars overheating for strange reasons.  I had said I’d never had the problem, but always use Honda OE for my SI.

 

He had an issue on his SI.  Connected temp sensors to different areas on the water jackets and discovered it was a water pump not pumping enough water on his SI

 

At some point, I’ll run out of my pumps and am looking for good aftermarket’s w proper impellers for the SI’s required water flow.

 

I was searching for Japanese aftermarket pumps.  Appears 19200-pe0-010, -000, -415 are for wagovan and non SI,s.  The 19200-pe0-515, -660 are the SI.  There are other p/n’s.  I didn’t do a deep dive on the numbers.  Was more interested in the impeller designs

 

Upper left is SI Honda NOS -515

Bottom left is non SI Honda NOS -415

Upper right is NPW H-22 Japan aftermarket

Lower right is Paraut H3-032 Japan aftermarket 

 

 

 

 

Packaging in same order as pumps above

 

 

 

 

Wrote down rough measurements of the impellers and paddles.  Not precise, but close.

 

Appears the NOS Honda -515 has a larger paddle and OD is .170” larger.  I’ve only used Honda NOS and don’t experience over heating.  I’d figure I’d share what I found.

 

Ill post up if I find a pump w larger paddles for the SI in aftermarket

 

LMK ur experiences.

 

thnx

 

 

I don’t think I’ll use the aftermarket’s on SI.  The paraut just looks funny.  Probably better for a DX

So my son has been driving the Beater around as a daily driver since march.  He's a trooper, no AC for Texas summer.  Time to fix it!
 
History on the Beater's AC....
 
Bought the car in 1993 w 78K.  Had working AC, but in Michigan, so didn't use it much.
 
Moved to Long Island, NY.  Used it summers heading to work, again, didn't really need it.  I had replaced the radiator somewhere around 95-120K miles....  Car was a salvage title, lots of weird failures not common to Hondas.   After the job (I did), the AC stopped working. more on that in a second.
 
1994 did corporate environmental compliance.  Got my EPA 608/609 cert.  Ghosted the guys on second shift working ac and they taught me some of the basics.
 
Moved to TX in 1998 (140K - ish).  Needed AC back in action bad.  Spent 24hrs troubleshooting the AC.  To discover I had accidently swapped the radiator cooling fan connector w the radiator thermo connector.  This, after many hours of investigation, shorted out the climate control unit in the dash to the left of the radio.  Apparently, this is a common issue.  CRX#2 had identical issue.  #2 had a minor front end collision from PO. Went that car got put together, they swapped the fan/thermos connectors as well. Second time around was a quick fix.... Had to search for working climate controls at Junkies.  Took a few to find on that worked.   
 
Pulled the engine in 2004 to reseal and hose all rubber parts in engine bay.   Opened AC, Resealed the hoses/tube o-rings. redid all AC seals expect inside evaporator and compressor.  Didn't mess w oil - wish i did.
 
All worked fine until 2010-2013??  not sure when.  But pully bearing noise, so i just cut off the belt.
 
I removed the AC system minus the evap a few years ago knowing I'd need to rebuild.  And to lessen weight for all the road trips I take.
 
 
Now, as w all the refurbish jobs, this becomes a massive project to sort out the system, parts from storage and what's available today to get this working....
 
 
MadMax and I pulled all the known used parts from the storage rooms a couple weeks ago.  I have 2 complete systems pulled from CRX#4 & #9 plus 3 systems I pulled out of junkyard cars somewhere between 1999-2003.  The junkyard parts came from CRX/Sedans/Hatchs w fully charged AC systems, no obvious oil leaks, clean sight glass and all around or less than 100K miles.  TX cars, so I assume heavily used.
 
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Honda sold the Sanden TR70 and Keihin cn150l compressor version systems.   They were installed at the dealership, not factory.  Subtle differences between sanden/keihin will exist. Compressor mount and the 2 hoses connected to the suction/discharge ports are different. Also slight differences on wiring/vacuum lines between the SI and carb'd cars.  No special labels in the engine bay other than s/n labels for the Honda OEM compressor stuck on the frame near the sight glass.
 
I'm working the Sanden TR70 system on the CRX Si pictured on left.
 
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 Equipment.  
 

 
 
This is a winter long project.  I've opened several posts to capture each topic/assembly to keep this in order.  Work in progress.  Please add your experiences.
 
I assume you all have the Honda Helms Manual.  I'm focusing on what I've learned and difficulties sourcing and dismantling parts.