36 replies to this topic

[Maine_Honda_Racer]

I have heard before that a interior of the axle swaybar(if thats the right word for it) out of a Civic wagon of similar era is stiffer than the stock gen 1 CRX piece. I was wondering if anyone could confirm this for me. Also have heard mention that by welding the bar so it doesn't turn when the wheel moves one could stiffen the rear even more, also hoping to get a confirmation of this, and if it is the case a better explanation of what exactly one would weld to do it. Thanks in advance.

[balladeSports]

I guess I'm the man for this since I've tried them all.
The wago one won't fit, well the leaver on the end is a weird shape and won't line up with the trailing arm bits. Funny thing is the wago sway bar is the same thickness as the stock factory CRX one (15mm)
next is the 86-89 LS integra one. at 17mm it fit perfect but I noticed nothing.

The SE Integra Bar is a wopping 19mm and still noticed very little in performance.

After all this bar swapping I took a look at my mugen catalog form the old days and notice the bar they had was 23MM!!!!!!! thats thick. With a bar that thick i decided to just weld the sucker and cut the rest off (save weight)

I noticed a huge diffrence. The turn in is much faster and understeer was reduced. very tight.
hope this helps (list of sway bar stats)

www.pleadies.com/tcline/crx/page1.htm

[tjbizzo]

I just wanted to mention an idea that I am going to try for this spring. The geometry of the rear sway bar is basically a diamond shaped 4 bar linkage: sway bar axis --> trailing arm/beam axle bearing --> front-of-sway-bar-link bushing in bottom of trailing arm --> rear-of-sway-bar-link bushing in end of sway bar pivot arm. So, what I am going to do is move one or both of the sway-bar-link bushings to get a higher ratio of trailing arm rotation:sway bar rotation. I can do this by either welding a second bushing tube (about 1" ID pipe x 1" long) just below the trailing arm, or by cutting off the bushing tube on the pivot end of the sway bar and welding it closer to the sway bar axis. Both of these will rotate the sway bar shaft more for a given amount of body roll, i.e. more roll stiffness. I haven't done it yet so I can't give any details but I will as soon as I try it in a month or two. Does anyone see a problem with this?

[Maine_Honda_Racer]

I guess I'm the man for this since I've tried them all.
The wago one won't fit, well the leaver on the end is a weird shape and won't line up with the trailing arm bits. Funny thing is the wago sway bar is the same thickness as the stock factory CRX one (15mm)
next is the 86-89 LS integra one. at 17mm it fit perfect but I noticed nothing.

The SE Integra Bar is a wopping 19mm and still noticed very little in performance.

After all this bar swapping I took a look at my mugen catalog form the old days and notice the bar they had was 23MM!!!!!!!  thats thick. With a bar that thick i decided to just weld the sucker and cut the rest off (save weight)

I noticed a huge diffrence. The turn in is much faster and understeer was reduced.  very tight.
hope this helps (list of sway bar stats)

www.pleadies.com/tcline/crx/page1.htm

Perhaps you could advise me on what you welded, since I've heard several folks mention this but have never seen it done or heard any specifics. Much obliged.

[balladeSports]

basicly unbolt the sway bar from the car, you will weld the sway bar arm to the torque tube housing, effectively stopping it from twisting. then cut the left over torsion bar and tube. after this, bolt everything back together.

[Maine_Honda_Racer]

Thanks, that really helps a lot, I'm probably going to try that out shortly.

[squareback]

After starting out with an OPM swaybar on my E Prepared car, I needed something much stiffer. I welded the internal bar and found that to be about perfect. When I get new torsion bars and good tires on my street Civic, I'll be welding that bar also.

Mike

[Maine_Honda_Racer]

I have nice stiff bars on my HF. This should be just the trick.

[CRXfanatic]

Here's a writeup...

http://www.geocities.../weldedbar.html

I tried the lock plate and hated it. Seemed to understeer more. So I took it off. I will be removing the internal bar altogether when it gets warmer out.

[balladeSports]

CRXfanatic

Whats the lock plate never heard of that before, was it made by someone? how did it work?

[rpr]

RetroCRX made a few, I have one, never used it. It basically locks the tube so it doesn't rotate. It should give the effect of welding the tube, without welding it.

[Maine_Honda_Racer]

Might you want to get rid of yours? I would really like to have one without having to weld it.

[RETROCRX]

Hated the lock plate? You're the first one Steevo!

It's basically a plate you bolt in between the end of the axle and the 2 bolt holes for the torque tube and has an extension on it to lock the arm attached to the torsion bar. Basically welding it without welding it!!

Rob

[CRXfanatic]

Rob, I know I'm the oddball. I put the plate on for an autocross, ran it, car plowed horribly. Took it off and the car was neutral again. I really don't know what's going on there.

And yes, it was installed properly...

[RETROCRX]

That's strange.......should have had exactly the opposite affect.

huh?

Rob