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ive been having an electrical problem for the past few weeks but it appeared to go away, but it was back today
When I turn the key the starter does not engage. I can hear the starter popping out, but it doens't rotate. I know its popping out because i can hear it, but no rotation. I have replaced so many things that i dont know what is left. Ive done the pos/neg cables, starter, battery, grounds, ground wires, ign switch, alternator. Eventually, if i keep trying the key for about 5 minutes, it eventually starts. I ve noticed when it does this the tach gets really really jumpy while its rotating before it starts. Like jumps to 4-5k.Anyone else exp this or know what it is?
1
Omg Stupid Car
Started by Mavrick, Dec 09 2006 09:33 PM
15 replies to this topic
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#2
Posted 10 December 2006 - 01:05 AM
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- VOOM VOOM NO VTEC!!!!!!!!!
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- Group: 2014 Contributor
- Location:SPRINGFELD,OREGON
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Drives: 1987 civic sedan(sold) 1987 civic DX(sold) 1992 civic SI(sold) 1985 civic wagon 4wd(sold) 1986 civic std DD(Sold)1986 civic dx(sold)
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bump
SACHR member be hate for who you are not loved for who your not.
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Member in the Carburetion Nation
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#3
Posted 10 December 2006 - 02:45 AM
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- tinker, tinker....BOOOOOOM!!!! then I run around
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- Group: Contributing Mod
- Location:Hurst, Texas
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Drives: Don't, because they don't run and I am a crappy mechanic.
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your bendix on your starter has gone out. The fix: a new starter.
Honda, because it's hard to look baller in your mom's Volvo.
The entire tool selection at Sears or the contents of a Snap-On truck will do you no good if you do not know how to use them.
The entire tool selection at Sears or the contents of a Snap-On truck will do you no good if you do not know how to use them.
#4
Posted 10 December 2006 - 12:51 PM
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- Slowpoke
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- Group: Members
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Drives: CRX
#5
Posted 10 December 2006 - 02:08 PM
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- 3gen enthusiast
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- Group: Vendors
- Location:Cornville, AZ
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Drives: 00 Dodge Durango, 01 Ford F250, 99 Chevy Tracker, 82 suzuki rm250
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perform a voltage drop test on your battery cables:
on the positive, hook up a voltmeter between the positive post on the battery, and the positive post at the starter.
on the negative, hook up a voltmeter between the negative post on the battery, and a good ground on the block.
while cranking, the voltage should not rise above .25 volts if it does, there is your problem.
i have seen a large number of rebuilt starters not work right out of the box. that may still be your problem
on the positive, hook up a voltmeter between the positive post on the battery, and the positive post at the starter.
on the negative, hook up a voltmeter between the negative post on the battery, and a good ground on the block.
while cranking, the voltage should not rise above .25 volts if it does, there is your problem.
i have seen a large number of rebuilt starters not work right out of the box. that may still be your problem
"You play hard to get, I play hard to get rid of" Fez, That 70's Show
my website if you need parts for your car, and i don't have them at on my website, just pm me. I can get most of the common parts for our cars.
my vouch thread
my website if you need parts for your car, and i don't have them at on my website, just pm me. I can get most of the common parts for our cars.
my vouch thread
#6
Posted 10 December 2006 - 07:37 PM
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- CRX Obsessed
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- Group: 2014 Contributor
- Location:Perth - Western Australia
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Drives: 1983 CRX (29th Build), 1991 CRX, 1984 CRX HKS Supercharged
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have you recond the starter with new brushes?
im thinking your brushes inside the starter motor are burnt or seized.
im thinking your brushes inside the starter motor are burnt or seized.
[GENONE] 1983 CRX Ballade Sports 1.5 SOHC Efi
[BANDIT] 1984 CRX Ballade Sports 1.6 DOHC HKS Supercharged
[SINISTR] 1991 CRX Si 1.6 DOHC Efi
#7
Posted 12 December 2006 - 12:15 AM
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- Slowpoke
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- Group: Members
- Location:Raymond, Washington
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Drives: 1987 CRX HF W/ Si motor R.I.P, 1985 Si w/ D16A1, 1996 Neon
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#8
Posted 13 December 2006 - 03:52 PM
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- Swap in HF drums, check your cam timing
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- Group: 2015 Contributor
- Location:CRX Heaven, Los Angeles
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Drives: '87 CRX Si, '07 Civic Si Sedan, '15 Scion FRS
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The ignintion switch does not last forever and it is common for it to fail after 20 years.
Scott
Scott
Form Follows Function
#9
Posted 13 December 2006 - 04:00 PM
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- Slowpoke
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- Group: Members
- Location:Kansas
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Drives: 1986 crx si, 1991 civic hatch turbo zc
I just had to fix my ignition switch about 4 weeks ago.......I developed a dead spot in it......I disassenbled the switch and found some corrostion on the connections.........cleaned it and the problem went away........
Lack of planning on your part doesn't constitute me giving you all my extra parts.......
#10
Posted 05 January 2007 - 09:47 PM
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- Slowpoke
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- Group: Members
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Drives: CRX
#11
Posted 06 January 2007 - 12:47 PM
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- Brian spilner racing team
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Drives: 86 CRX DX, 03 MT IS300
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#12
Posted 06 January 2007 - 01:17 PM
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- Slowpoke
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- Group: Members
- Location:Covington,TN
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Drives: 1999 Turbo-Si, 1987 Si, 1990 CRX Si, 2001 Procharged Cobra, 2007 Jeep Compass
QUOTE (Computer @ Jan 6 2007, 11:47 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
hit it with a hammer (really)
heh, thats what i was thinking too lol....
The Original Corndog Minion
#13
Posted 08 January 2007 - 05:21 PM
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- Slowpoke
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- Group: Members
- Location:Arizona
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Drives: '86CRX Si
Rotate the crank about a quarter turn and try again. If it cranks, you have a bad spot on the ring gear.
#14
Posted 08 January 2007 - 07:43 PM
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- Phoenix CRX
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- Group: Members
- Location:Phoenix
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Drives: 86 CRX SI(sold)- 91 Mustang 5.0 LX
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I agree with checking out the ignition switch. a lot of times when they go faulty, it can give you a hell of a time trying to diagnose a problem
#15
Posted 11 January 2007 - 08:46 PM
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- Leadfoot
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- Group: 2009 Contributing Member
- Location:Virginia Beach, VA
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Drives: 1986 CRX Si/1987 Integra LS Hybrid
if the starter solenoid pops then the ign switch is ok. just the contact on the solenoid is all effed and corroded. hammer theory applies here...but to the solenoid (cylidrical growth on side of starter).
Tony Palumbo
'86 CRX Si ZC
'86 CRX Si ZC
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