Had my Beaters alt go out around 160k?? bearings would seize, squeal belt on start ups if i let the car sit too long (Michigan/Long Island salt). I installed a used OE ND w 100Kish mile. That one took me from 160 to 252k (160k total miles for this particular alt). Failed at 252k due to worn brushes. I didnt' like the slip ring groove, so replaced w the 129K crx's alt. then i blew the rectifier running the head lights, front/rear wipers, rear defrost, heater fan on hi w my radio turned up idling at a light w brake lights on. Pushed the 34 year old alt to its limits. then I installed the 67K alt w NOS brush assy. Had been using that one since.
IMO, Hondas reliability hey-day were the 80s. I want original NDs to maintain that reliability.
My first car out of high school was a Lee Iococa era early 80s car. did the free alt replacement plan. after replacing 3 alts on that plan, i sold that POS and bought the beater in 1993. Reading recent posts on recent rebuilds, things haven't changed. Remanufactured alts are a last resort for me. My most confident plan moving forward has always been to find original Honda parts and use/rebuild myself.
My base alternators are 5 red labeled OEM CHA18 NDs for the SIs 1) 67k installed to beater last year, 2) 104k, 3) 129k from crx#9 - for the Straman conversion, 4) 252k beater (98k from crx#4 donor installed to beater around 160k, about at 160k now) and 5) 150k ish from random junkyard. Theres more on my spare engines and cars in storage to sort out
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I stumbled across 2 Honda blue labelled remanufactured in japan NDs for 88-91 crx at junkies over the years. one was actually installed in an 86crxsi w 150k. the alt was brand new. other was on a 91 crxsi, that one turned out to be almost new. i grabbed another off a1988 integra. Point here.... the rectifier, armature, bearings and brushes are a match for the 1G crxsi. These are either spare parts, or if i can get rpr guidance, maybe w the right pulley, I can used the for more amps in the future?
REBUILDING 4 CHA18 35 yr old Nippon Denso OE alternators.......
Ran the alt tests on my 87 haynes manual pages 25-40 to 25-43 tested rectifier, rotor and coil case. Since its in the manual, I wont cover it here. Assuming we all have that manual
![51851619422_a952f7c90b_c.jpg](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51851619422_a952f7c90b_c.jpg)
Tapped the top of the triangle back and forth to loosen the halves. Then wacked it to one side enough to get a screw driver and hammer to separate a gap. Then worked screwdrivers along perimeter until it came apart.
![51853242010_936b5d6c5b_c.jpg](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51853242010_936b5d6c5b_c.jpg)
Since I was reusing the bearings, I pressed them out.
SLIP RINGS
Was concerned about grooves worn into the slip ring by the brushes. Whats the service limit of the copper?? I measured the rings off my 2 NOS Honda rebuild alts. Slip ring OD is .567. Measuring the unworn portion of my used NDs, they all measure .567. I sawed 2 rings down into the copper through to the ID. (in a non destructive location on the edge). This tells me Honda OE slip rings are .050 thick. I can monitor remaining thickness after i file them down. Reusing ground slip rings means brushes wont last as long as they have to extend further. Thinner copper and heat generation at contact point, I have no idea if I'm creating a problem here, speak up if anyone has experience here
They make a slip ring rebuild sleeve. you chisel away the old slip ring and press/solder the new one on. The 88 teg alt was a reman where they did this. those rings are .050 think as well, w varying OD. Keeping these on hand for use in 20 years
![51852583591_0ff1725c55_c.jpg](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51852583591_0ff1725c55_c.jpg)
I rotated the rotor and filed the tops off the grooves. Each ring wears differently. Not sure if its spring tension? Or electrical loading? The 4 alternators ranged from .550 - .565". Measurements across all 8 total rings. If '050" thick, (.550-.567)/2 leaves about .009" of .050" worn, or 20%. I have not idea whats safe min thickness.... Interestingly, the alts from salted/dirty climates wore the most. Clean alterators had the least amount of wear. 2 other family cars had brake fluid/oil leak into those alts. Oil made brush carbon stick and exelerated the wear.
![51851620407_e793d27821_c.jpg](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51851620407_e793d27821_c.jpg)
If you look closely at the slip ring, you can see my saw cuts. The brushes do not contact that spot.
BEARINGS
I have several sets of Honda bearing. I used dental picks to carefully remove the seals, exposing the bearings. I opened 8 bearings and damaged 2 of the 16 seals removed. I inspected them w a jewelers glass to be sure. seals Pix below is an NOS bearing from my storage of 20 yrs. Compared to the 252k bearings. Grease still reasonable on the old NOS. 252k was dry and crumbly. I slid both bearings back on the shaft and wiggled them, spun them. 252k had slight wobble. Could barely hear bearing rattle w lack of grease. I regreased the 252k bearing as the race was very clean. They actually felt pretty good. Feeling these old bearing in good shape, and the seals were very pliable, I regreased and reused all of my original Honda bearings (except the one w damaged seals), cleaned and regreased. Theres no way these bearings will cause the rotor to interfere w the coil. I see little risk. Will reinstall the rebuilt 252k alt to the beater as my proof of concept and put back in service this weekend
![51853242895_e62bf55dd1_c.jpg](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51853242895_e62bf55dd1_c.jpg)
GREASE
Im taking path of regreasing my bearings as old grease has dried out. Also to refresh grease from aged NOS bearings. Need a sticky grease. hi/low temperature range for high speed rpm. Chevron SRI and Mobil polyrex EM greases appear to be the choices- designed for electric motors. I bought the Mobil 2 years ago from granger for $11/tube. -20 to +350f service range. Key is not to over grease. It will sling grease out of bearing, onto alt. Im using the NOS bearings as my quide here
CONTACT CLEANING
i used a dremmel w a mini wire brush to lightly clean all electrical contact points. this the undersides of all the screw heads. I used hot/soapy water to scrub the rest of the components to get the dirt/grease off to keep it cool while running. Decided not to use chemicals/power wash to not damage the coiling and epoxy holding the wiring together.
PULLEY
Interesting here. The NOS's measure 2.250 OD off the ribs. Some of the original NDs measured 2.235, 2.230, 2.250. Apparently, Honda varied diameter for some reason. One of the 2g crx measured 2.150. Smaller pulleys spins faster, generating more current. Will be a later project to play w pulleys and the 2g crxs alts to pump my amps. These cars were made when speed limit was 55mph. Driving 80mph sustained might be a long term problem?
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
Cant reallly test til on the car
TESTING
Went to Oriellys w my alts during the last rebuild. They had a hard time getting the correct connector. The CHI18 designation helped him locate the correct connector. Will repeat to have them test my rebuilds
RISKS
Reusing original 35yr old Honda OE voltage regulator and diodes. I have no idea how long these will last.
Reusing rotor and stator as is. I really dont see a rish here.
Bearings, I inspected the balls/races and seals w jewelers glass. Seals were stretchy/pliable. I really think these will be fine.
Bearing seals: in some, i nicked one of the double seals. its the inner seal (small diameter) it wont allow grease to fling out, but might allow moisture in. felt low risk
I pack an extra alt on out of state trips. Im not concerned. I'd rather take the chance on 80's honda electronics vs Chinese POS replacement parts until I"m proven wrong. The 252k rebuilt alternator will prove if my theory is sound. New NOS brushes.
OBSERVATIONS
The 88 teg alt was rebuilt aftermarket. It was tight, but the bearings were chinese. The seals were a stiff plastic crap. I don't see how they would last long.
The 88 teg was also missing the dust washers on the large bearing leading to potential remature failure.
The ND out/small bearing grease was much darker. I believe the carbon entered the sealed unit. As the large bearing was clean.
****** This teaches me I must replace any sealed bearing in my car thats original. All the 35 yr old ND's grease was dry. Now I know what a dry bearing "hum" sounds like to identify before I get a hard failure in the future *******
Reassembled w NOS burshes and reused a Honda rectifier off the 2G CRX alts to maintain original. Very few parts required to rebuild.
Is it worth it to open the bearings to regrease,... NO. The bearings seem fine and Ill do it again if I have the time.
Reinstalling the 252k rebuilt to the beater. Removing the 67K working alt to regrease the bearings and keep as a spare.
Keep ya posted as I clock the miles on these. Not saying these are better than Autozone, but I feel more confidant based on the horror stories I hear w free, worthless replacement warranty....