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Posted by
QUOTE (CRXfanatic @ Oct 3 2005, 09:56 AM)
Have a read thru this. If not enough, search honda-tech for more. Should answer your questions.
Leave the ecu in the car, dont mess with it. It will stay put for starting and
spark.
Leave the harness alone, except what you need to disconnect to get the carbs on,
for example, map, iat, iacv, tps, injectors, all get unplugged. You can roll
all these up and zip tie em, or whatever.
Install an MSD unit. Something with a rev limit would be nice seeing how you no
longer have a ecu controlled fuel cut off. The MSD also helped clean up my
idle. Good thing to have the extra spark to along with the extra fuel and air.
Still running the STOCK coil also.
Picture your stock distributor at full advance. It would probably only get
around 19 degrees max if that. So you cut slots in the Distributor legs to
allow you to rotate the son of a bitch way past what honda intended. This is
done because with all those vital PGMFI sensors being disconnected, the ECU
doesn't know what the hell is going on, and thus retards the timining. The cut
distributor allow you to run higher static advance so this isnt a problem
anymore. I am running 26 as it is right now. This was recommended by 'Bisi.
'Bisi told me that research he'd done didn't show anything beneficial to having
an adjustable timing curve past the 3k rpm mark, so his advice to me was keep it
simple when I told him about other methods I had heard.
Fuel wise. From the stock fuel filter run a fuel line through both carbs. The
fuel line coming out of the last carb then goes into the INLET of a Holley 1-4
psi regulator. Bisi told me I need to get somethin that sits at a solid 5 so I
need to take care of that. This regulator has two OUTLETS. On one outlet get
some fittings and install a gauge. On the other side, run a fuel line from this
outlet and out to the stock return line.
This allows you to keep the original Fuel Injection pump in place. Bisi and my
friend Teren used to run the streets like this for years w/o any probs to the
fuel pump. Because the excess is running back to the return line, it doesn't
put much stress on the pump.
About the Check Engine Light, either get used to it, or pull the bulb out.
Leave the ecu in the car, dont mess with it. It will stay put for starting and
spark.
Leave the harness alone, except what you need to disconnect to get the carbs on,
for example, map, iat, iacv, tps, injectors, all get unplugged. You can roll
all these up and zip tie em, or whatever.
Install an MSD unit. Something with a rev limit would be nice seeing how you no
longer have a ecu controlled fuel cut off. The MSD also helped clean up my
idle. Good thing to have the extra spark to along with the extra fuel and air.
Still running the STOCK coil also.
Picture your stock distributor at full advance. It would probably only get
around 19 degrees max if that. So you cut slots in the Distributor legs to
allow you to rotate the son of a bitch way past what honda intended. This is
done because with all those vital PGMFI sensors being disconnected, the ECU
doesn't know what the hell is going on, and thus retards the timining. The cut
distributor allow you to run higher static advance so this isnt a problem
anymore. I am running 26 as it is right now. This was recommended by 'Bisi.
'Bisi told me that research he'd done didn't show anything beneficial to having
an adjustable timing curve past the 3k rpm mark, so his advice to me was keep it
simple when I told him about other methods I had heard.
Fuel wise. From the stock fuel filter run a fuel line through both carbs. The
fuel line coming out of the last carb then goes into the INLET of a Holley 1-4
psi regulator. Bisi told me I need to get somethin that sits at a solid 5 so I
need to take care of that. This regulator has two OUTLETS. On one outlet get
some fittings and install a gauge. On the other side, run a fuel line from this
outlet and out to the stock return line.
This allows you to keep the original Fuel Injection pump in place. Bisi and my
friend Teren used to run the streets like this for years w/o any probs to the
fuel pump. Because the excess is running back to the return line, it doesn't
put much stress on the pump.
About the Check Engine Light, either get used to it, or pull the bulb out.
Awesome stuff, Cool dude, Thanks for the info, you about the first person that has given me solid information on this setup.
With regards to the MSD thingy, is this an ignition amplifier, how do you connect up. Please excuse my ignorance with regards to this, i want to do this first time correct. Also what will be the jet settings for the sidies?
Much appreciated
Regards
Fazel.
