When I did my swap I used the teg axles and hubs. But I used everything else from the crx. ie. shocks, Lower control arm,... But it seems to be eating the outside of the front tires and I don't know why. What would cause it and how would I go about fixing it? Would an alignment help?
2
Eating Tires
Started by blu84rex, Aug 04 2007 01:04 PM
12 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 04 August 2007 - 01:04 PM
#2
Posted 04 August 2007 - 06:35 PM
front toe. this you can check and adjust with a helper
measure between common points between the front tires, both in the front and rear of the tire, be sure to use the same point front and rear.
the aim is to have the front about 1/16"-1/8" less than the rear
measure between common points between the front tires, both in the front and rear of the tire, be sure to use the same point front and rear.
the aim is to have the front about 1/16"-1/8" less than the rear
"You play hard to get, I play hard to get rid of" Fez, That 70's Show
my website if you need parts for your car, and i don't have them at on my website, just pm me. I can get most of the common parts for our cars.
my vouch thread
my website if you need parts for your car, and i don't have them at on my website, just pm me. I can get most of the common parts for our cars.
my vouch thread
#3
Posted 04 August 2007 - 07:09 PM
Factory spec is 0 toe (no toe in or out).
Shawn
--------
1987 CRX HF, black top D16A1 power.
Best ET so far: 15.130 @ 88.53mph
--------
1987 CRX HF, black top D16A1 power.
Best ET so far: 15.130 @ 88.53mph
#4
Posted 04 August 2007 - 07:56 PM
QUOTE (86dxmechanic @ Aug 4 2007, 07:35 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
front toe. this you can check and adjust with a helper
measure between common points between the front tires, both in the front and rear of the tire, be sure to use the same point front and rear.
the aim is to have the front about 1/16"-1/8" less than the rear
measure between common points between the front tires, both in the front and rear of the tire, be sure to use the same point front and rear.
the aim is to have the front about 1/16"-1/8" less than the rear
The best way to measure is to first jack up both wheels an paint a line on the tread with someone spinning the tire then using a screwdriver you can make a perfect line to measure to, Because tread can vary a little the line you make will have no varience.
#5
Posted 04 August 2007 - 08:37 PM
get an alignment....... you sould have done it right after swapping the knuckles.... they'll go completely bald if you keep going
grimms mom
#6
Posted 04 August 2007 - 08:54 PM
+1
Same thing happened to me after new axles and radius/lower control arms. Burned up a set of perfectly good Yokohamas quicker than sh*t. I learned my lesson; I sprung for the extended warranty alignment because I knew I'd be messing around with the suspension again.
Same thing happened to me after new axles and radius/lower control arms. Burned up a set of perfectly good Yokohamas quicker than sh*t. I learned my lesson; I sprung for the extended warranty alignment because I knew I'd be messing around with the suspension again.
#7
Posted 04 August 2007 - 09:53 PM
alignment it is then. Sounds easer then measuring everything myself.
Conceal nothing... And watch the fools search forever!
#8
Posted 16 August 2007 - 11:53 PM
yes, you must align, I had to on mine after swap . It drove weird also. after the align it drove straight and perfect. the swap writeups need to add that into them.
#9
Posted 04 September 2007 - 08:52 AM
yah i didnt get an alignment and i ate thru my tires so bad the steel started to show. so i swapped the rear tires (almost brand new) and put them on the front and boom steel shows again. yah get an alignment or get an alignment + new tires later. oh and dont let the shop tell you that your wheel bearings are bad bcs our wheel bearings never go bad. make them align it. they told me they couldnt bcs the wheel bearings were bad. idiots. they just didnt want to do it.
#10
Posted 04 September 2007 - 10:21 AM
QUOTE (wyclefcupcake @ Sep 4 2007, 09:52 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
oh and dont let the shop tell you that your wheel bearings are bad bcs our wheel bearings never go bad. make them align it. they told me they couldnt bcs the wheel bearings were bad. idiots. they just didnt want to do it.
I don't know what kind of bearings you have...but just because they are sealed does not mean they are a lifetime part. I replace mine once a year. extreme alignments and hard driving will cause premature wear of our ball-bearings, which were not designed to take much side load.
Bad wheel bearings will let the wheels flop around, and therefore your car will not be able to take a true alignment. Idiot.
Tony Palumbo
'86 CRX Si ZC
'86 CRX Si ZC
#11
Posted 04 September 2007 - 11:10 AM
^ what he said. I think once a year is a bit extreme (depending on what kind of driving your car sees and how much), but changing them more often never hurts.
Shawn
--------
1987 CRX HF, black top D16A1 power.
Best ET so far: 15.130 @ 88.53mph
--------
1987 CRX HF, black top D16A1 power.
Best ET so far: 15.130 @ 88.53mph
#12
Posted 04 September 2007 - 09:51 PM
QUOTE (RexKrazy @ Sep 4 2007, 11:21 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I don't know what kind of bearings you have...but just because they are sealed does not mean they are a lifetime part. I replace mine once a year. extreme alignments and hard driving will cause premature wear of our ball-bearings, which were not designed to take much side load.
Bad wheel bearings will let the wheels flop around, and therefore your car will not be able to take a true alignment. Idiot.
Bad wheel bearings will let the wheels flop around, and therefore your car will not be able to take a true alignment. Idiot.
ok let me clarify.
i took my car to another garage and bought brand new wheel bearings and they did not need to be replaced. why? because mine were not bad. i know that bad wheel bearings will not allow you to get a true alignment. but i also know that midas wanted to not bother with my car because they were the true IDIOTS here. they cost me 4 good tires on my car and a hell of a ride back home. they are the COMPLETE IDIOTS. never go to MIDAS. they are rip off lazy pieces of #(**($#. and you can call me those names like you called me an idiot but i know they ripped me off. oh yah and i asked them to charge my a/c system and of course they did. and it leaked out in an hour. why? oh because they didnt pull vaccuum on the car to -28/-29 whatever before they charged it. of course they said it did but when i took it back to my other mechanic he tested and they lied.
so is that enough proof for me to be able to call midas idiots? or should i be an idiot still. just wondering.
i know that our wheel bearings are not lifetime parts. but they do last for a decent amount of time.
still i dont know why you would choose to call me an idiot here. but hey i guess maybe you had misread what i wrote or perhaps i didnt explain enough. hopefully this is a good enough explination. being as i took my car to other garages and they told me that midas lied to me and they were just too lazy to bother helping me to fix my car.
thats ok that is why they made the BBB.
thanks for your time.
#13
Posted 05 September 2007 - 01:29 AM
OK, sorry for calling you an idiot. I guess your first post didn't tell the whole story. made it sound like you were calling them idiots for no reason, so I called you one for no reason. lol.
anyway, our bearings suck. I once spent several hours on the phone w/ timken motorsports begging them to make a dual tapered roller bearing press in upgrade for our cars....they didn't bite.
anyway, our bearings suck. I once spent several hours on the phone w/ timken motorsports begging them to make a dual tapered roller bearing press in upgrade for our cars....they didn't bite.
Tony Palumbo
'86 CRX Si ZC
'86 CRX Si ZC