Edited by jedi420, 10 April 2008 - 04:05 PM.
1
D16a1 No Compression
Started by jedi420, Apr 10 2008 04:04 PM
27 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 10 April 2008 - 04:04 PM
i put a new head on and now there is like 50psi in 3 and 2 and 0 in 1 and 4 what to do???
#2
Posted 10 April 2008 - 04:53 PM
Probably a bad headgasket or warped head. What kind of gasket did you use? Where did you buy the head? Did you adjust the valves? Could Have some Bent valves. Why did you change the head?
#3
Posted 10 April 2008 - 05:02 PM
#4
Posted 10 April 2008 - 05:09 PM
i got the head from a guy on 1gteg and its rebuilt and a new felpro gasket timming is on..and i put the new head on because the head that was on it was a black top head and was overheating
#5
Posted 10 April 2008 - 05:11 PM
Did you torque to 22 and 48 in a counterclockwise circle starting from the center bolt Exhaust side? I really dont trust graphite single layer gaskets either. If you overheated it you may also have a warped deck.
Edited by Xspenzo, 10 April 2008 - 05:15 PM.
#6
Posted 10 April 2008 - 07:59 PM
Warped deck, bad rings, sticking valves, we may need more information.
#7
Posted 10 April 2008 - 09:21 PM
it overheated bad one time any time it started to overheat id stop and let it cool down..
#8
Posted 10 April 2008 - 09:41 PM
QUOTE (Maine_Honda_Racer @ Apr 10 2008, 07:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Warped deck, bad rings, sticking valves, we may need more information.
I'd rule out the rings if it ran before. Pull the cams then run a test - That will at least rule out overtightened valves/bent cams. Did you re-use the old head bolts? Did you pull the old head correctly a 1/3 turn at a time in the opposite order of the torque order? If all that checks out you probably bought a bad head or have a warped deck and need to pull the whole thing, tear it down and take it to the machine shop to have the surfaces checked out.
#9
Posted 10 April 2008 - 10:24 PM
#10
Posted 10 April 2008 - 10:46 PM
If you are getting 0psi in some, there is some big problems... Can you watch the valves all move up and down rotating the crank by hand?
I let a head sit for about a month and when I put it on the car the valves would open but wouldnt close under the spring pressure.... There was a very light rust residue on the valve stems that was causing some valves to stay slightly open at all times. "Sticky valves" Pulled each valve out and hit it with some fine steel wool and that fixed that problem
I let a head sit for about a month and when I put it on the car the valves would open but wouldnt close under the spring pressure.... There was a very light rust residue on the valve stems that was causing some valves to stay slightly open at all times. "Sticky valves" Pulled each valve out and hit it with some fine steel wool and that fixed that problem
#11
Posted 10 April 2008 - 10:54 PM
#12
Posted 10 April 2008 - 11:05 PM
QUOTE (jedi420 @ Apr 10 2008, 10:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
yes used old bolts didnt do the 1/3 turns...
2 Bad deals there - 1. You have an engine that has been overheated which causes the headbolts to stretch as the head expands, 2 by not loosening the bolts 1/3 at a time you proabably warped the deck as the head was already warped from oerheating and those bolts should have definetely been tossed out-It is sometimes okay to re-use them but not when you have been having a consistent overheating problem. Are you leaking any coolant out of the sides or back of the head?
Sorry for the bad luck man
#13
Posted 10 April 2008 - 11:46 PM
#14
Posted 11 April 2008 - 10:57 AM
You can get a metal straightedge and a feeler gauge and check both the block and head for warpage. If theres no warpage then you could have some bent valves or they are adjusted way too tight