24 replies to this topic

[Disco Stu]

O_o
Whassamatter pumpkin? I thought I was doing a good job answering ya!

If you didn't say, I was going to say that this seemed against your normal postage type. Change that password somethin' quick dude!

[ChrisF-dude]

I had nothing good to say and got deleted.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hmm, I think someone forgot to take their happy pill this morning. Hey, these folks are just trying to save you a LOT of time, money and frustration. But judging by your frustrated irrational response, are you a postal worker? Every car company has some lemon engine that don't work out, the Prelude had one. It was a gentleman's boulevard cruiser, not race car. A ZC has about the same HP, and is MUCH cheaper, easier, and more durable than the B20A. Now if you can't understand that, go ahead and try that swap. Then we'll all be amazed when you post dumbass questions like "How do the pushrods work during Vtec?'' Now, no I won't eat your ass and die. First you don't wipe well, like a big boy. Second, If I were to die, my credit card companies would be oh so sad to see me go. Now, I don't know about these other guys, but I'm going back to circle kerking now that I've tried to explain things to you.

[C_piddy]

you better log out after using some one elses computer or a public one...

that sucks
seems a bit harsh to be coming from you... lol... do us a favour and edit it.

chris

[AudioCra-Z]

Plain and simple, if you want to build a 2.0 litre motor, take a B18C1 GSR, have it sleved for 83mm, and go HP crazy.

I have yet to see a good B20 block last long at the track, unless it was using GSR internals keeping it alive. My buddy had a CRVTEC in his hatch, and it didn't last long. Just couldn't handle the rpm's.

[brian g]

Hey guys I had this in a topic in the General forum..but I didnt get the rite info...I need to know if Anyone on this site has done the b20a5 swap...And if they have can you plz give me info....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I've tried and it doesn't fit the engine bay. You would need to move the firewall back about 4 inches.

brian g

[jonesy]

Hey Stu... Ok so whether or not the b20 is worth crap or not... I would love it if you'd explain something for me. Going from your discussion of the crank pushing too much on the cylinder wall and oblonging them, would a longer rod coupled to a shorter piston would (theoretically) change the angle of pressure against the wall, am I right? I'm not gonna try this, but I'm just trying to expand my motor knowledge.

And I guess some cylinder clearancing (to prevent the longer rod from hitting the lower part of the sleeve) would be necessary as well..

jonesy

Edited by jonesy, 04 December 2004 - 10:34 PM.

[Disco Stu]

Hey Stu... Ok so whether or not the b20 is worth crap or not... I would love it if you'd explain something for me. Going from your discussion of the crank pushing too much on the cylinder wall and oblonging them, would a longer rod coupled to a shorter piston would (theoretically) change the angle of pressure against the wall, am I right? I'm not gonna try this, but I'm just trying to expand my motor knowledge.

And I guess some cylinder clearancing (to prevent the longer rod from hitting the lower part of the sleeve) would be necessary as well..

jonesy

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The size of the piston doesn't come as much into it, in my unscientifically based opinion. There is always the argument of an over or undersquare engine (when the piston is wider/smaller than the stroke) but that doesn't so much enter into this one. The center of the piston, whether it's 8mm or 800mm in diameter, I think is still going to be in the same general place. besides, you do need a bore that is large enough to allow the rod to move without wacking the cylinder. If I'm remembering right, some early ENDYN D16 rods required the notching of the block to let them fit in there without wacking the sides (though I think that was because of the size of the rod and not the size of the piston bore.)
The length of the rod divided by the length of stroke should ideally be 1.75. I honestly still don't know HOW this number came to be recognized as ideal, but I have seen it consistantly mentioned. The rods that were in the B20A were much less than the ideal size for that engine's stroke, which is why those engines had those problems. Putting in a longer rod would have helped, but you have to take the block's deck height into account. With my engine, if I had used anything longer than the 140.1mm rod in combination with the B17 crank, the piston would have been kissing the head in a less than family channel friendly manner. Theoretically, I could have used the B20B crank and gotten rods that were much longer to make up the correct R/S ratio and used a deck plate to get the extra room necessary for clearance, but I'm not too keen on something else that could leak like a head gasket. Just me personally.

[X-man006]

I am a crybaby, ignore me.

[C_piddy]

Hey guys I had this in a topic in the General forum..but I didnt get the rite info...I need to know if Anyone on this site has done the b20a5 swap...And if they have can you plz give me info....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I've tried and it doesn't fit the engine bay. You would need to move the firewall back about 4 inches.

brian g

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

hey brian g... thanks for come to rpr.... don't mind the fool who is being retarded on this post.

just want you to dispell the rumors that you are making mounts for the k motors in first gen crxs, and third gen civics?

some how i get the feeling that the motor will stick out the hood.

chris

[PreludeX]

wow, big debate on the b20a5.b20a. well, hmm the part where someone talks about the bad seals is mainly the b21, the b21 has the worst oil burning problem in the world. as a 3rd genner, i notice yes we dont have alot of after market support, but i do also know, with the right work, the motor can pump out some serious power. we have people that have pushed 10lbs of boost daily and are still running great. while others are just careless with the car and motors.. as for swaps, the b20a is the cheap way out of a swap.. common swap, h22 (i prefer closed deck h22 as i will hold better under boost) is common, spendy but common. but when you really think of it, all swaps are spendy, also when you think of it, b20s push almost the same amount of power as LS teg motors. But in all honesty, i really think the prelude was made for cornerin capabilities, specially the 4ws, which ended up being a disaster on the 4th gen prelude due to being electrically operated unlike the 3rd gen mechincal.. but imo, the third gen has a great amount of power and torque for its size... the motors are strong, no matter what you guys say, cuz it leads me to say, have you owned a third gen? do you really know how it operates? thats my question