Jump to content




Auto To Manual 1984 Civic Hb


  • You cannot reply to this topic
7 replies to this topic

#1
waytotall77

  • Slowpoke
  • PipPip
    • Group: Members
    • Location:Wallaceburg Ontario Canada
    • Drives: 2 1984 civic hb's, 2 1991 caprice classics, and the newest member of the family is a 2011 Elantra L 6 speed..
Well I am changing over my auto civic 1984 hb to a manual.. from a donor 1984 civic hb.. simple you say.. smile.gif well I noticed theres way more wires on the auto harness,, LIke at the gear shifter theres 10 more wires,, 14 total.. only 4 on the manual.. at the same place.. and another thing I noticed different was under the hood on the manual trans,, theres a sensor there with 2 wires that I cant find on the auto harness or that trans.., so I pulled the complete harness from the manual car, What a joy taking out the whole dash,, smile.gif has anyone on here done this ?? checked in the swap section,, nothing there,, so I guess what I am asking,, is do I need the whole harness from the donor car,, for everything to work.. I am changing the cluster, so I have a a shift light, clutch pedels are the easy part,, same with switchn out the trans,, just banging my head over that birds nest of wires lol... Just looking for someone who has done this to say O ya,, DOnt do this or that,, because I did and,, so on.. Please if you have anything that will help..

Ty Rob..
aka Totall, why you ask.. Because I am 6/7

#2
Bubba

  • In the left lane
  • PipPipPip
    • Group: 2013 Contributor
    • Location:Western KY
    • Drives: 87 Civic Dx hatch with 1.5 CVCC and auto trans, devaced 87 CRX HF with rebuilt 1.3
I put an auto trans into my 87 civic (it was a 5 speed). The only reason for all of the extra wires in the auto floor shifter are for the shift position backlight, reverse lights and the neutral/park starter lockout. There might be also be a wire from the shifter to the crude control box (ECU) but technically you'd also need an auto ECU if this was the case.

The extra wires for the manual trans are just for the reverse lights- you could likely save a bunch of time/work by finding the reverse light wires in the shift console and making long jumper wires and splicing them into the wires coming out of the manual trans.

#3
3gencivic

  • civics rule
  • PipPipPipPipPip
    • Group: Contributing Member
    • Location:chilliwack BC
    • Drives: 01 jimmy4x4, 92 ranger custom longbox 2wd
yes i have done this swap. its not that easy but its do able.

you need.
the manuel 3 pedel system all of it. you need the aselerator cable from the standerd, as well the chocke cable. as the auto is all one.
the trans mittion mount is diff so need that mount too.
you can keep the auto harnness from the fuse box to the engine but you will have to take the auto harnnes off the auto engine and put it on the std engine everything should be the same. for connectors.
the dash if your swaping the cluster its best to swap out that harnness.
then you can all so take out all the auto shifter wires they mostly all go to the fuse box. the big black and white wires there 2 of them need to get connected to gether as that the started nutral wires. ( its a good way to setup a kill switch).
you will need the std trans shifter and linkage and modify the floor to hold the std as the auto has a diff size hole.
for the std trans for the wires for the revece lights run to wires for the trans to the revece wires at the auto shifter wires. forget the color codes.
you will all so need to change the fly wheel and clutch if all your doing is the trans insted of the engine as well.




#4
waytotall77

  • Slowpoke
  • PipPip
    • Group: Members
    • Location:Wallaceburg Ontario Canada
    • Drives: 2 1984 civic hb's, 2 1991 caprice classics, and the newest member of the family is a 2011 Elantra L 6 speed..
QUOTE (3gencivic @ Jul 5 2011, 08:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
yes i have done this swap. its not that easy but its do able.

you need.
the manuel 3 pedel system all of it. you need the aselerator cable from the standerd, as well the chocke cable. as the auto is all one.
the trans mittion mount is diff so need that mount too.
you can keep the auto harnness from the fuse box to the engine but you will have to take the auto harnnes off the auto engine and put it on the std engine everything should be the same. for connectors.
the dash if your swaping the cluster its best to swap out that harnness.
then you can all so take out all the auto shifter wires they mostly all go to the fuse box. the big black and white wires there 2 of them need to get connected to gether as that the started nutral wires. ( its a good way to setup a kill switch).
you will need the std trans shifter and linkage and modify the floor to hold the std as the auto has a diff size hole.
for the std trans for the wires for the revece lights run to wires for the trans to the revece wires at the auto shifter wires. forget the color codes.
you will all so need to change the fly wheel and clutch if all your doing is the trans insted of the engine as well.


Thank you for the insite into this topic,, Ive got almost the whole donor car stripped.. I took out the whole harness even rear.. Nice to have a spare smile.gif are the clusters different?? from auto to manual>? and theres a different fly wheel too smile.gif Joy,,, lol.. oo wow. I spent 1o hours on it today.. well taking off doors,, fenders / hatch,, all glass, front rear bumpers,, front shocks complete asm's and rack,, header is off stainless.. smile.gif took the complete interiour out.. dash. even heater core. Hood.

I am having a hell of a time with the top bolt rear, manual to engine rear mount,, messed with it for 30 minutes, Not much room in there, Click bang click bang smile.gif and the guy a got it from was nice enough to oil guard the whole engine bay and underneith,, well I guess it leaked oil for a few years,.. Are the drive shafts Cv's different too?? both boots are tore on the manual and alot of play in them,,, and I drilled out the spot welds for the shifter mount,, I noticed that was different,,Will mig it back in place and cover the auto trans cable hole...

Ty Rob...
aka Totall, why you ask.. Because I am 6/7

#5
Bubba

  • In the left lane
  • PipPipPip
    • Group: 2013 Contributor
    • Location:Western KY
    • Drives: 87 Civic Dx hatch with 1.5 CVCC and auto trans, devaced 87 CRX HF with rebuilt 1.3
The cv axles are the same for auto and manual.

#6
Bubba

  • In the left lane
  • PipPipPip
    • Group: 2013 Contributor
    • Location:Western KY
    • Drives: 87 Civic Dx hatch with 1.5 CVCC and auto trans, devaced 87 CRX HF with rebuilt 1.3
You should be able to get a wrench on it from the top- just pull some of the stuff back from around the thermostat housing area, or use a long extension and U-joint and get it from the bottom with a socket.

#7
waytotall77

  • Slowpoke
  • PipPip
    • Group: Members
    • Location:Wallaceburg Ontario Canada
    • Drives: 2 1984 civic hb's, 2 1991 caprice classics, and the newest member of the family is a 2011 Elantra L 6 speed..
Thank you once again Bubba.. this is going to be a fun ride.. smile.gif
aka Totall, why you ask.. Because I am 6/7

#8
waytotall77

  • Slowpoke
  • PipPip
    • Group: Members
    • Location:Wallaceburg Ontario Canada
    • Drives: 2 1984 civic hb's, 2 1991 caprice classics, and the newest member of the family is a 2011 Elantra L 6 speed..
Thank you guys for all the help.. and I still cant get that rear top engine to trans bolt out,,, maybe got it out a quarter sofar maybe I will just sawzall of the front end of the car in front of the fire wall.. so I can hit it with an impact... smile.gif I have to work night the next few days so I wont be working on project 1984 civic.. neibours love having a 3/4 car all tore down in my side driveway.. I guess it helps keep property taxes low in my area,,,


aka Totall, why you ask.. Because I am 6/7