I love Chedda's products but even with the higher $1500 claim this year, they are out of reach. The first practice/race day is March 1 so I gotta get crackin. I cut the roof off to make access easier for cage mods. I'm not a little feller and cage-to-strut tower braces are allowed now. I also needed access for wiring, gauge install (VSS), and pedal mods (booster delete).
I don't think I will gain much, if anything, from rear brake mods. Probably focus more on lighter rotating mass than stopping power. If the weight loss is significant, I can source 88-91 civic backing plates and aluminum drums as there are NO HF's that I can find. I have an 88 HF that will race also. We are now allowed 1" difference in wheelbase so if the right side is longer it will want to turn left, right?
Camber I get, rear steer i get, toe out I get, but weight transfer eludes me. My guess is I want preload LF to RR and rotate weight to RF while turning. with tail brake under power, I get left turn. I think.
With a locked rear axle, would I benefit from a limiting strap in the center? My spotter claimed I didn't lift my left rear with my last set up (read: giant stab in the dark) but if it is faster, I'm ok if it never touches down.
The last time I scaled, it was really heavy front/left front.
I am totally a rookie driver and practice will dictate the set-up. Full off throttle is sweet on turn in/oversteer/rotation but my exit was where I lost. I was running up on SHO's in the corner and I had 76 glorious CVCC hp..... Research tells me to turn-in hard under cruise throttle and exit under left-foot-brake cruise throttle to keep it rotated. I can't wait to try it!
My fear is my gear. Hopefully, I can get a few more out of it but the trick is leaving the corner fast because they are not (neither was I).
Edited by Dirtcircle86, 10 March 2014 - 10:44 PM.