DrWeird

Alright, thanks. I pumped the fluid out and got around a cup of brake fluid out. I already planned on replacing the master since it was a leaking a tidbit outside for around 6mo, but yeah, it just suddely gave up the ghost a few days ago and did this lol. Fluid needed changing anyway. Looked more like pond water than brake fluid.

Alright, I'll try slamming it back. It once had an issue with the accelerator not resetting all the way, so I extra-wound the return spring on the carb, but maybe that wasn't enough.

I will also hook up the pull-off. Thanks for the info on the electric choke, its still hooked up, I just haven't stood around and watched it do its thing, so I wasn't sure it worked.

Thanks for the info, and I'll give it a look this weekend.

I suppose I will hook that up to a thermostatic valve in order for the pulloff to not be on all the time. The weird part is that the car idles at 1000-1500, but roughly, when cold, and once it runs ok and has power when warmed up, it sits at 3000-3500. I've tied the primary and secondaries together, perhaps this is the issue? I'm thinking the mix is just off somehow.

With the devac, the electric choke doesn't really work, does it? Perhaps I should rig up a way to turn on/off the electric choke?

Thanks, that's what I thought, but couldn't convince myself for sure.

So in terms of reducing fueling/idle speed, any hot tips for devac'd cars? I've not messed with the mix screw, since I hear that's a can of worms best left un-opened. Any other way to modulate this? What is the easiest way to check the mix is correct? Wide-band install, or something else? The idling at 3k is what really bothers me.

Last two pics are the same, is this correct?