25 replies to this topic

[down4ce]

Good luck with this, I can't wait to see the results. Your crx still remains my favorite

[crxmobber]

EDIT: I posted a slightly better picture. (Refresh your browser if you don't see the new picture.)  The tape moved about 1/4" to the left, so instead of the end of the pulley being at l3 1/4" it is now shown at 13". Still, you get an idea of where to bang. When I said there was about a 1/4" of clearance between the frame and pulley, I lied. Looks more like 1/16" - but that works just fine. Haven't ground off any of the paint in  8,000 hard miles

Well, before I could figure out how to force my camera to fire the flash, the batteries went dead (as usual). So, this is the best I could do on the pictures. I'll replace these pics with better ones when my batteries recharge.

First picture shows where edge of tape was placed - right below the bolt hole for the engine mount.


Second one attemps to show where the clearance problem is. The pulley is at the closest point to the frame at the 13 1/4" mark on the tape. This is where you need to have a good size dent in the frame.

The pulley extends back from the 13 1/4" mark to about 10 3/4".  The area to concentrate denting is around 10 1/4" to 13 3/4". The really critical area is between 13 3/4" and 11 1/4".   

I'd suggest putting some masking tape on the top of the frame rail to mark the dent spots.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

right on! thanks for taking theses pictures that really helps out alot. i am going to be painting the bay so i want to pound in the dents before i do it.

[crxmobber]

Good luck with this, I can't wait to see the results. Your crx still remains my favorite

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

thanks man!

[C8V6C]

Sorry, I forgot to mention you need to beat the shit outta the firewall for it to fit.....at least I did for my b16 manifold and my type r manifold......

My IACV would hit once in a while on a high rpm shift....when i didnt hit it back

maybe crx is different, im not sure

[AudioCra-Z]

Another problem with intake clearances is what gasket you are using. If you use an aftermarket, they tend to run a bit thick. I stuck with a Honda gasket, for better clearance.

[crxmobber]

Another problem with intake clearances is what gasket you are using. If you use an aftermarket, they tend to run a bit thick. I stuck with a Honda gasket, for better clearance.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

oh shit. thats the 1st i heard about that. all hasport says is the frame rail. huh. well maybe i'll have to do some test fitting before i paint then. thanks again

[Sonotaps]

In Arizona, this is a good question to ask.

For those of you who have done the b16 swap in 1G CRX, were you able to retain or add air conditioning? Is there enough room?

That makes my eventual swap choice rather limited. Can't have a car here without A/C.

Thanks for the insight on this thread and good luck on the ride.

[crxmobber]

In Arizona, this is a good question to ask.

For those of you who have done the b16 swap in 1G CRX, were you able to retain or add air conditioning? Is there enough room?

That makes my eventual swap choice rather limited. Can't have a car here without A/C.

Thanks for the insight on this thread and good luck on the ride.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i dont think you can have ac if your using the hasport mounts because the driverside mount bolts on the front of the block where the ac/ power steering pump would be. but i could be wrong.

[down4ce]

Bryman's 85 Si has a b16 with A/C you can ask him for specifics on how, if you can fabricate or pay for it that helps a lot

[myheadhertz]

oh shit. thats the 1st i heard about that. all hasport says is the frame rail. huh. well maybe i'll have to do some test fitting before i paint then. thanks again

When using the stock intake manifold and stock type gasket, there are no firewall clearance problems. Yeah, it's close. Watch that IACV connector when putting the engine in the car! Very easy to break it.

You might want to plan ahead a little concerning the TPS (throttle position sensor). You may have to recalibrate the TPS once you get the engine in and running. There is very little room to get at the TPS hold-down screws with the engine in the car. I replaced the stock TPS phillips head screws with hex head bolts. Now, I can loosen the bolts with a 1/4" drive ratchet. If you do replace the screws, take them out and replace them one-at-a-time so you don't change the TPS position by accident.

[C8V6C]

^The crx must be different than the hatch....mine hit at high rpm shifts. I had a stock obd0 b16a stock gasket...