The gauges arrived, and we hooked them up according to the plan. 18" on the map sensor was too lean to start the engine. 13" was the magic vacuum on the map sensor to let us start, idle and crack the throttle during adjustments.
First off, the gauges are in centimeters. Second, I've never done this before...
Cylinders 3 and 4 were pulling 60cm, and 1 and 2 were pulling 20cm, meaning the 3 and 4 throttle plates were completely closed, and the vacuum on them was closing them to the point of completely sealed, and 1 and 2 were doing all the work. It took a few minutes to figure out which way to turn the screws, and I started to balance everyone out. But every time I got them close, the idle would be way too high, like 2000+ rpm's with the main idle adjuster backed all the way out.
After an hour of fail, I pulled the tb's off the manifold and looked at them with a light behind the plates. It was just wrong. The light showed #4 was the tightest seal, gradualy opening up more each plate up to #1. The throttle cable is coupled the the number 4. I figured start there, and it would be a cascading effect down the line. What I didn't figure on was when I cranked down an adjuster to close it, it would exert pressure on the other tb's messing up any previous adjustment, making the others open a bit.
I dialed everyone down to an almost tight seal visually, with a flashlight behind the throttle plates. I found that the slightest change, like 1/8 of a turn, would have a dramatic effect on the adjacent plates. Hopefully this is my new zero point.
So thats where we are at. More to come,
Matt