This is kindof related to my topic I made a few days ago. Anyway one of the nights my car was stumbling real bad, the engine started running hot. Of course I didn't drive long like that, the moment I saw the temp wasn't going down I pulled over. Well I was worried, because all of you know the engine has a tendency to lunch head gaskets. I checked the car over after it sat all night. Not burning coolant, no coolant in the oil. Well there was one area I forgot to check and I did the other day when topping off the radiator. There's oil in the coolant. Not a lot, but there was some that had settled near the top when I checked it and after running the car for a bit the coolant had a nice oil sheen. Not to mention a few bubbles that arose from the abyss. Could be air or exhaust, not sure don't have a tester.
I've never done a Head gasket, but I have the chilton manual and my sister's boyfriend has done them and I think he'd help me. What're the chances the head is so warped it can't be planed? Also if I do the head gasket, what other things should be replaced while you're in there? I was thinking about it, I refuse to have a mechanic do it and I thought it would be cool to challenge myself and learn how to do it.
For those of you who havn't seen the sedan. http://imgur.com/kzwqp There it is. I can't junk it, I don't have the heart.
2
I Think I Have To Replace The Head Gasket :(
Started by Judohawk, May 05 2011 02:29 AM
76 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 05 May 2011 - 02:29 AM
#2
Posted 05 May 2011 - 09:13 AM
do the head gasket its easy. probably not so warped but make sure to use a feeler gauge between the head and block with no gasket to make sure they arent warped
QUOTE (kjeffery @ Apr 17 2009, 06:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yet again Scott, you have all the answers
QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Apr 17 2009, 07:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
No. All the answers are in the Kakabox build thread.
QUOTE (Lymitliss @ May 26 2009, 08:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Ohh yeah I guess that makes sense. King Kaymo has all the answers
#3
Posted 05 May 2011 - 11:14 AM
QUOTE (kaymo @ May 5 2011, 09:13 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
probably not so warped but make sure to use a feeler gauge between the head and block with no gasket to make sure they arent warped
Great idea- I've never thought of that before.
I thought buying a machinist's straight edge would be the only way to check for warpage.
#4
Posted 05 May 2011 - 11:39 AM
It is not that tough to do. I would use this as an opportunity to have the head "surfaced" with a slight skim or to go for a complete shave for higher compression. While you are in there, swap in a new timing belt and water pump.
Form Follows Function
#5
Posted 05 May 2011 - 12:54 PM
QUOTE (cbstdscott @ May 5 2011, 11:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
It is not that tough to do. I would use this as an opportunity to have the head "surfaced" with a slight skim or to go for a complete shave for higher compression. While you are in there, swap in a new timing belt and water pump.
Yea that sounds like a good idea. The guy I bought the car from I know did the timing belt about 15,000 miles ago, not sure about the water pump. But I wanna fix this car up, might as well do some preventative maintenance just to be safe. Anything else that should be done?
#6
Posted 05 May 2011 - 02:05 PM
It seems like this is the time to redo all the valve seals.
This leads to the question if anybody can answer it here.
Can you redo the head and not redo the rings and bearings.
Because I've seen it so many times you redo the head and
3-6 months later the bottom end just blows up.
This leads to the question if anybody can answer it here.
Can you redo the head and not redo the rings and bearings.
Because I've seen it so many times you redo the head and
3-6 months later the bottom end just blows up.
#7
Posted 05 May 2011 - 02:11 PM
QUOTE (Condor @ May 5 2011, 02:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
It seems like this is the time to redo all the valve seals.
This leads to the question if anybody can answer it here.
Can you redo the head and not redo the rings and bearings.
Because I've seen it so many times you redo the head and
3-6 months later the bottom end just blows up.
This leads to the question if anybody can answer it here.
Can you redo the head and not redo the rings and bearings.
Because I've seen it so many times you redo the head and
3-6 months later the bottom end just blows up.
Yea I'd like to know what I need to do before. Because even though this is going to be a big learning experience I still want to get the car in great shape engine wise. The car does burn/push oil. But I'm not sure exactly what the cause is. The guy I bought it from says he thinks the valve guides might be letting some by. Who knows.
#8
Posted 05 May 2011 - 02:14 PM
how many miles is on the motor, the burning of oil could simply be old worn out valve seals that need replaced you can do that during replacement of the headgasket, or It could be stuck piston rings, normally honda bottom ends hold up EXTREMELY well, but if the bottom end is tired you can always replace rings, bearings, etc. etc.
but take it from me, once you crack it open you will want to re-do everything and it gets a bit costly.
but take it from me, once you crack it open you will want to re-do everything and it gets a bit costly.
The Original CR-Z driver
#9
Posted 05 May 2011 - 02:21 PM
QUOTE (Condor @ May 5 2011, 02:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
It seems like this is the time to redo all the valve seals.
This leads to the question if anybody can answer it here.
Can you redo the head and not redo the rings and bearings.
Because I've seen it so many times you redo the head and
3-6 months later the bottom end just blows up.
This leads to the question if anybody can answer it here.
Can you redo the head and not redo the rings and bearings.
Because I've seen it so many times you redo the head and
3-6 months later the bottom end just blows up.
I had a machine shop do a valve job and mill the head on my 87 carbed 1.5 civic hatch. I didn't touch the bottom end. I haven't had any problems with it and that was 15,000 + miles ago.
I bet it is common for the bottom end to go out if someone blew a head gasket and got coolant in the oil and ran it that way for awhile. Supposedly the coolant in the oil is really hard on bearings. I had no coolant in my engine oil.
#10
Posted 05 May 2011 - 02:25 PM
QUOTE (Bubba @ May 5 2011, 02:21 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I had a machine shop do a valve job and mill the head on my 87 carbed 1.5 civic hatch. I didn't touch the bottom end. I haven't had any problems with it and that was 15,000 + miles ago.
I bet it is common for the bottom end to go out if someone blew a head gasket and got coolant in the oil and ran it that way for awhile. Supposedly the coolant in the oil is really hard on bearings. I had no coolant in my engine oil.
I bet it is common for the bottom end to go out if someone blew a head gasket and got coolant in the oil and ran it that way for awhile. Supposedly the coolant in the oil is really hard on bearings. I had no coolant in my engine oil.
To the guy above bubba, there's a 143,000 on the motor and to bubba. No coolant in the oil. Just a bit in the coolant. Anyway, off to work. I'll check back after.
#11
Posted 06 May 2011 - 12:05 PM
yeh i had to change my head gasket with my friend it took us 30 minutes not to long if you know what your doing
was up my name is antonio I <3 MY HONDA!
#12
Posted 06 May 2011 - 12:51 PM
QUOTE (black87crx @ May 6 2011, 12:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
yeh i had to change my head gasket with my friend it took us 30 minutes not to long if you know what your doing
I don't really know what I'm doing But I'll learn. I don't think it'll be too bad, I'll have plenty of time to get it done. No rush
#13
Posted 06 May 2011 - 01:09 PM
QUOTE (Judohawk @ May 6 2011, 12:51 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I don't really know what I'm doing But I'll learn. I don't think it'll be too bad, I'll have plenty of time to get it done. No rush
30 minutes is fast. I spent at least 2 hours just carefully scraping the old gasket material off. If you gouge the mating surfaces, it won't seal properly. I stay away from the abrasive drill disks- I messed my block up with one of those.
#14
Posted 06 May 2011 - 01:55 PM
QUOTE (Bubba @ May 6 2011, 01:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
30 minutes is fast. I spent at least 2 hours just carefully scraping the old gasket material off. If you gouge the mating surfaces, it won't seal properly. I stay away from the abrasive drill disks- I messed my block up with one of those.
Good advice, I certainly appreciate any and all advice given.
#15
Posted 06 May 2011 - 04:53 PM
QUOTE (Bubba @ May 5 2011, 12:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Great idea- I've never thought of that before.
I thought buying a machinist's straight edge would be the only way to check for warpage.
I thought buying a machinist's straight edge would be the only way to check for warpage.
it is, because the head and block could be warped TOGETHER. but it will at least tell you if you are going to have any gaps the gasket cant take care of...
QUOTE (kjeffery @ Apr 17 2009, 06:17 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yet again Scott, you have all the answers
QUOTE (cbstdscott @ Apr 17 2009, 07:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
No. All the answers are in the Kakabox build thread.
QUOTE (Lymitliss @ May 26 2009, 08:06 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Ohh yeah I guess that makes sense. King Kaymo has all the answers