Turn Signals Only Do Not Work.
#1
Posted 16 March 2014 - 04:24 PM
#2
Posted 17 March 2014 - 08:27 AM
Guys I am stumped, been searching for a while now and can't find a solid answer. My hazards work, headlights, windshield wipers, horn and everything, just my turn signals do not work at all. There is no indicator lights popping up on the dash or anything, I am confused cause the hazards work just fine with everything else. Anyone have a clue?
Although I won't be able to tell you exactly what's going on, I might be able to give some insight to help point you in the right direction.
From what I found when my hazards weren't (and still aren't) working was that they work on a different electrical system than your turn signals. I would assume that's a safety feature where even if other electrical components are shot, your hazards should still be functional if you're on the side of the road with the car off. At least you know that the bulbs aren't shot and can narrow the problem most likely being in the cabin. I can't remember which fuze controls the turn signals, but I would check that out first. If it looks good, then start chasing wires from the turn signal switch box on the steering column. I guess it could also be a loose ground, which seems to be a common problem with these cars, but don't know where they are to tell you where to look.
#3
Posted 17 March 2014 - 12:01 PM
#4
Posted 17 March 2014 - 02:57 PM
I'm unsure about that part and honestly don't know exactly what a relay is. Wish I could help more.
#5
Posted 17 March 2014 - 03:12 PM
Have you tested out your combo switch? Check the fuse and turn signal grounds?
#6
Posted 17 March 2014 - 03:16 PM
The hazards can work while the car is off because the power source for this circuit is hooked directly to the battery off the positive post. Most peoples hazards stop working because that wire/fuse get damaged and sometimes even complete disconnected while people are replacing the battery. When I got my car, the wire had been cut and zip tied out of the way, I am guessing because someone did not know what it was and deemed it not important.
Also, I would pick up a factory Service manual and go through it, there are some good diagrams on learning how power moves through these cars via switches, relays, wiring and fuses. This will help you out a lot while doing your Fuel Injection swap.
Joseph
#7
Posted 17 March 2014 - 05:53 PM
Any news on your problem JEA?
niccer,
The hazards can work while the car is off because the power source for this circuit is hooked directly to the battery off the positive post. Most peoples hazards stop working because that wire/fuse get damaged and sometimes even complete disconnected while people are replacing the battery. When I got my car, the wire had been cut and zip tied out of the way, I am guessing because someone did not know what it was and deemed it not important.
Also, I would pick up a factory Service manual and go through it, there are some good diagrams on learning how power moves through these cars via switches, relays, wiring and fuses. This will help you out a lot while doing your Fuel Injection swap.
Joseph
Sorry to hi-jack OP, but to answer, Mine was the same when I bought it. The fuse was cut right up near the fuse on the battery and tucked behind some wires on the firewall/wheel well. I haven't bothered in sourcing a replacement fuse portion yet, but will soon enough. Also, yeah I totally agree; I'll be picking up an FSM as soon as I can. The chiltons that came with the car is a little lacking and is in pretty bad condition.
Edited by niccer, 17 March 2014 - 05:53 PM.
#8
Posted 17 March 2014 - 08:40 PM
#9
Posted 18 March 2014 - 12:20 AM
so check the combo connector, maybe a contact is pushed out, or tarnished.
somewhere on the site is the helms manual. follow the wiring from the hazard fuse at the battery to the lights and compare the delta from the combo switch to the lights
#10
Posted 18 March 2014 - 11:29 AM
I've take Combo switches apart, they are pretty heavy duty and the only time they go "bad" is when the arm breaks off. There are no circuits, it's all copper or copper plated heavy gauge stamped metal similar to what's inside a newer fuse box. I agree with Grease monkey but I would also suggest you take it apart and clean it with electrical contact cleaner (or brakecleaner) and regrease the plates with dielectric grease.
#11
Posted 18 March 2014 - 11:53 AM
the only thing that is stumping me is that i removed the turn signal arm, I put the spring back in the end of the arm with the stainless steel ball on the end. it moved up and down and clicks into place flawlessly, The headlights work when switched on, the high beams even activate when i pull the switch forward... its just up or down does not register, could i have put something back in wrong?
#12
Posted 18 March 2014 - 12:15 PM
If they worked before you took it all apart and didn't once you put it back together, then I'd say it's a safe bet that something was re-assembled incorrectly.
#13
Posted 18 March 2014 - 02:27 PM
Where did you find a combo switch to order? Do you have any spares you can guinea pig with?
First thing I would do is pull the relay and check to switched power side of the socket for power with the turn signals on. Then go from there.