Red Pepper Racing

As most of you know I purchased a bender, so I started off with playing on my personal ride, getting the layout for the strut bar you guys want so badly. Yes it is triangulated, yes it will work with my camber plates and likely with Davids as well. The bracket pushes out off the tower to allow for the camber plate to be mounted. 

In the following photos you will see the first template I.E just messing around with bends to find what I like. The triangulation will be split on the final bar, with a dual plate mounting it to the fire wall, one plate on either side, to sandwich it for best strength. The mounts that will go under the camber plates, will be 3/16" thick mild or stainless depending on which bar you order. The brackets will be gusseted and shorter than what you see in the photo to bring the strength back towards the tower. The contour of the bar matches the replica DC one from EGAY which cleared the ZC and D16 without an issue. 

 

 

 

I like the triangulation. Is there enough metal at that point of the firewall to make a secure connection? Backing plate needed?

As listed above, I dis say a sandwich plate is needed for sure, and it may even need angled bracket that goes downward. I still need to play, but it will come.

Very nice!  I missed it, which bender did you get?

 

Round tube fabrication is an art, and lots of fun.  Anybody can cut and weld square tube together and make it look decent.  I just have a chitty HF hydraulic "water pipe" bender but with the tube filled with sand (I prefer glass beads/grit) i get useful results.  Getting a bend to land exactly where I want it to seems impossible sometimes.  I'm sure you aware of this trick but I'll throw it out anyway.  For making compound bends, or even singles, I use brazing rod/wire to make a pattern of the part and use that as a template.  I've tried just "eyeballing" and i never seem to hit the mark. 

 

I'm anxious to see more tube projects from ya!

Its a mendrel bender from jr2, 32 model with optional hydraulic attachment. Max 2" x .250" wall.

Sweet! How much clearance is there between that 2nd bar and the firewall? It might not clear the 88-89 firewall fuse box though. Be great for the Rywire set up though.

Very nice.  For the sake of saving a few pounds, material and possibly cost could it be done with one tube? then a tube comes off of that to the firewall?  I can send you pics and measurements of my car, with a B16 if it would help in the fabrication.  I am interested, as you know.

 

Great start!

The tubing is all .060 wall stuff, your going to save 1lb if that by doing it that way plus there is always that rule of thumb, never attach a strength component to the middle of a tube. The bar will work best triangulated, and that will be the design I will likely stick with. I am down with just a dual runner bar with no triangulation as well.

88 / 89 fuse box in the Integra I asume your talking about. The thing about custom parts, is that little things like fuse boxes, relays and vacuum boxes can all be moved to accommodate a part like this, making the part suit the fuse box is usually the hard part.

Very nice.  For the sake of saving a few pounds, material and possibly cost could it be done with one tube? then a tube comes off of that to the firewall?  I can send you pics and measurements of my car, with a B16 if it would help in the fabrication.  I am interested, as you know.

 

Great start!

That makes sense.  let me know if you need any measurements or pictures of my car, happy to help.

88 / 89 fuse box in the Integra I asume your talking about. The thing about custom parts, is that little things like fuse boxes, relays and vacuum boxes can all be moved to accommodate a part like this, making the part suit the fuse box is usually the hard part.

I wouldn't be interested in moving the fuse box, the reason for using the 88-89 integra harness is time and money thing for me anyway. Maybe there is a simple fix but I've modded things before and if I modify one thing, I might have to modify 5 other things just to get the first thing where I wanted it, been down that road before and it's a very tight engine bay. Regardless, this looks like a very good product to stiffen up the front and would go nicely with a tucked harness.

This bar will be good for any chassis not just tucked harness ones. People asked me for a triangulated mount, this is the way its achieved, and most users won't get away without alteast moving one thing to the side.

Although if users are scared to dive in I can offer the dual parallel bar instead.

Options are always good!  How will they be finished, Powder coated?

 

Keep us posted on availability!

I will be offering three different finishes, painted, bare and stainless. I don't do in house powder coating and I don't want to add $70 a set just to pay someone else to coat it so obviously I will offer it in the non painted form for customers to finish themselves.