Anyone have a source (book, website, or whatever) to recommend which describes all the K series engine control strategies in detail? Ive searched but havent found what Im looking for.

Order placed

I supported my 1st 87 CRX Si with jack stands under these points on jack stands regularly from 87-93 when I had it. Never a bit of bending or damage.

But later I experienced bending of similar points on a 95 Ford sedan inherited from my mother. It happened the 1st time I tried supporting the cars weight on them.

I could be wrong, but think these are designed to just locate the jack or stand saddle to prevent sideways slippage. Not to support the car on. Hence the notched saddle of the OE Honda scissors jack for the CRX. (Maybe your problem arose from the extra weight of the B on the front? Just a thought.)

As far as a solution, there are slotted saddles available on the market today for floor jacks / stands. They go between the support and the car. At least some are made of rubber. A quick search came up with a variety ... https://www.google.c...le-gws-wiz-serp

Another thought to repair and allow continued use of these points for supporting weight is to weld small gussets perpendicular to the longitudinal fin to add strength.

A final thought when I owned that 1st CRX in the late 80s, I got the idea of using hockey pucks on top of my floor jack saddle. Rubber is virtually incompressible. You can squeeze it in one direction, but it will expand in another direction to compensate, and the volume remains virtually unchanged. Used hockey pucks are cheap from used sporting goods stores, and VERY tough. About 15 years after I started using hockey pucks, I had occasion to visit a Ferrari dealership and saw they use hockey pucks to protect the car undersides too. I would not be above slotting a puck to clear the fin and supporting a CRX on the adjacent area.

Thanks for posting Victor. Looks like Brian / Hasport is getting close to releasing the kit.

I’m continuing to research what I will need for the swap. I’ll post my list for comments / review when I think I’ve taken it as far as I can.

More precise, with more clearly defined gates … awesome!

Looks great Victor! Curious what you think of shift effort (so far, without driving it yet) compared to original.

100% agree, Victor. Can’t wait to hear what your car does in the 1/4. IMHO we’re gonna wind up with Bitchin CRXes that are what they woulda shoulda been originally if only computer chips, controls and other technological engine development had been around in the ‘80’s.

What made you go with the accord trans?  Did you want a trans will taller gears.

In a way yep. Mostly just wanna avoid unnecessarily high torque multiplication and engine speeds. Heres my thought process

My build will be 100% for the street. Definitely no drag racing; Im a road racer at heart if anything. The car is already lowered, and Im not interested in putting it back to original height. But neither do I want to change its exterior or interior appearances further away from original. Although the drivetrain will be swapped, the goal is to wind up with as close to an OE Honda appearance under hood as possible (as if Honda had originally installed the K into the AF 35 years ago). Planning to stick with the OE phone dials, along with whatever tire width increase the fenders will allow (if any) at my lowered ride height. I want it to have a get in and drive anywhere, anytime kinda feeling.

I seek drivability, refinement, etc consistent with my view of a finished Honda product. No unnecessarily high torque multiplication in 1st, and no unnecessarily high engine speed while cruising at 60 mph.

With these self imposed constraints, I began with the stock Si gearing IIRC about 12.8 to 1 in 1st and 3.13 to 1 in 5th. Another benchmark is the gearing of my 185hp 16 K24W1 Accord CVT which results in about 1500rpm @ 60mph cruise conditions.

By my calculations, the 08+ Accord 5spd ratios - 3.266 first and .647 fifth with a 4.389 FD give torque multiplications of 14.33 and 2.84 respectively.

My 3.266 4.389 first gear will give greater multiplication than the 91hp / 90lb-ft Si had. And with nearly the same weight (no AC, CF hood and other body parts, lightweight flywheel, plus other weight savings) and roughly double the torque, should have no trouble breaking traction. Even with a planned LSD.

Similar reasoning tells me the approximately 2600rpm @ 60 mph in 5th I expect will be fine as compared to the Si FAs 2880rpm, and my 16 Accords 1500rpm.

Yes we are!  Hopefully others can use all of this to help them with their swaps.

I’m reading along very carefully Victor, and will use the info in this thread.

I’ve been researching a lot in the past month or so.

My current thinking involves as many Honda service parts / assemblies as possible … K24A2 short block & head with a ‘08+ Accord 5-spd (after swapping shift forks, arm, etc, etc to accommodate an RSX shifter).

Making good progress. Thanks for sharing Victor.

I found an interesting part for the fuel system. The hardline that comes out of the firewall has a flared fitting that connects to the rubber hose that goes into the fuel filter. Historically the solution to change this to an AN fitting was to cut off the flare and use an Earls 5/16 adapter that goes to AN. Challenge with this is sometimes, like in the engine bay, you can’t spin a pipe cutter around the hardline due to other lines near by.
 
I found an adapter from K-Motor Performance that attaches directly to the flared hardline and adapts to a -6 an fitting. They have two versions depending on whether you have a long or short collar on your cars hardline. Ordered a short one and should have it today to try tomorrow for some fuel system mock-up.

Excellent. Thanks for sharing this info Victor.

Victor, thanks for correcting me and posting the link to Speed Meter

Ive been running the speed box for a year and a half..interested where you got the custom cable or if you can get another

@Mag00n, IIRC Victor posted somewhere (probably earlier in this thread) that Speed Hut made the custom cable for him. If so, Im guessing all thats needed is to specify its to connect to a Gen 1 CRX speedo. I need to order one myself. I havent because other car priorities have consumed my time recently. But as soon as the Hasport K mount kit is released, Ill be ordering lots of stuff, including a speed box.

I imagine hell be along to confirm or correct me.

Untitled by Victor M, on Flickr
 
We did some painting in the engine bay to cover up some of the decades of wear and tear.  We also cleaned up the wiring harness that is in the engine bay and tucked the stuff we dont need or will connect to back in the cabin.
 
torqued everything down and installed the header.  Next we will be tackling axles, half shaft, shifter and cables.  I am also going to start mocking up the fuel system in the engine bay.

Awesome! Great work! Makes me droooool!

Super cool Victor! Can’t wait to see the finished installation!

Hang in there Victor. You’re getting close

This is really exciting Victor. I hope the install goes smoothly.

BTW: I received an answer from Hasport Sales on my inquiry. They said, as you already know, the kits in the works and not yet available. The purpose of my inquiry was mostly to show interest. IMHO the K swap is a great answer for many who have G1 CRX Sis who want to drive and enjoy them. Should make the car more like they shouldve been IF the K / VTEC technology was available 20 years earlier. And the availability of OE and aftermarket parts will permit more enjoyment of these amazing pocket rockets.

If the K swap headers aren’t too close, that’s great news.

Something else triggered my thinking. While waiting for differential parts, I’ve been cleaning years, or probably decades, of grime underneath the Corvette floor resulting from oil leaks. Chevrolet installed a foil backed, fiberglass blanket attached inside the tunnel & covering most of the transmission.

I may still do something, maybe not as drastic as the BSR-TPS stuff. I’m looking forward to some installation pics, and reports of first hand experience, from you guys who’re ahead of me in the process.

FWIW and maybe something to consider

The other day I was thinking that since the K swap puts the header in close proximity to the firewall, it might be a good idea to add some insulation before engine installation.

I faced a similar problem when building my ERA 427 Cobra replica 20 years ago. Each header ran close to a foot box. ERA offered an optional aluminum shield, which I incorporated on each side. But I went a step further by riveting an extra layer of insulation incorporating NASA space shuttle material to each shield where it runs closest to the foot box. At the time Id learned the NASCAR guys were using it to keep exhaust heat out of the cockpit. BSR-TPS custom made two slightly different panels to dimensions I provided.

The name & address of the company is:
BSR-TPS Products, Inc.
Thermal Protection Systems
155C Rolling Hill Rd.
Moorsesville, NC 28115

Thats from my 1997 invoice; but no phone number. I just searched online. Theres a business listing, but no website or phone number, and a different street number 149 Rolling Hills Rd. So I have no idea if the business is still operating or not.

Im flat out right now with the differential out of the rear end of my 66 Corvette, one last turd left by the PO. I have to get that back together, cleaned up, etc to sell. The Vettes gotta go to make garage space for the CRX, and then Ill devote more than just minimal time to it. But if I do find time, Ill explore BSR & post a phone number here.

Very cool Victor. Keeping the original functional dash has been a concern. Looks like you have an excellent solution. And I have another item on my list of things to get.

Good luck Wednesday night.

@cspcrx - Hi Victor. I messaged Hasport yesterday asking about the EW K Swap kit.

As soon as they release the kit, I plan to order it, and to pull the trigger on an engine & tranny.

What a really cool CRX this is with some very rare & desirable parts.

At 1st glance I thought its the same one I stumbled across recently on the internet:
https://m.youtube.co...h?v=-dZKfwr2Y9M

Ive considered every option I can think of to get my 87 Si back on the road (with significantly more performance than it originally had). I want to minimize the need for sourcing unobtainium parts to maintain it over the long run so I can drive and enjoy it. Clearly I dont have the network of contacts and funding the owner of this threads subject car has.

I decided a swap to a more modern drivetrain suits my needs better.

Im determined to turn my Si into a fun, reliable high level driver most likely with a K swap

In researching K-swaps, I found this on K transmissions and thought itd be helpful to add here

https://www.hybrid-r...-guide#comments

Are all of them swap candidates or just some? (I.e. 5 vs 6 speeds, early vs later model years?)

And does anyone know what the 5 vs 6 spd weight difference is? (Makes sense the 6spd would be a little heavier, but I also read somewhere online the 6spd has a different, weight saving case.)

na-spirit … your Si is makin me drool. It looks awesome. Great work!

Thanks much Guys. I love 1Gen CRXs.

na-spirit I tried uploading photos to Imgur; hopefully you can see them now

greasemonkey re the blown tranny. I think most likely abuse, or possibly track time. But when I get time, Ill definitely investigate. Im not home now, and dont have my Honda service manual in front of me. But IIRC, there are 2 screws which attach one end of the transmission counter shaft to the housing. Just speculation, but I wonder if the 2 pops I heard in transitioning from coasting to light uphill load were them letting go? Well see

And btw the time spent outside resulted from having too many cars, magnified by a long contentious divorce settlement