D16z6 Writeup....sticky?
#16
Posted 09 August 2007 - 11:25 PM
#17
Posted 10 August 2007 - 12:12 PM
#18
Posted 27 April 2008 - 04:04 PM
#19
Posted 26 August 2009 - 02:32 PM
Here's my write-up.
I was very curious to see if the 1G/3G driver's front mount would fit on the D15B/D16A motor as it looked very close but it is indeed a little different. Looks like the wiring changes are about the same if you were to swap in a D16A1. I was contemplating swapping in a D16A6 into one of my cars, but I think I would go with fully a6 mounts and welding them to the frame, and keeping the engine/trans combo the same for less custom drilling/tapping of the motor. It is interesting to see the a1 trans bolts to the D15B/D16 block!
Still, great information, it can be done!!
Cheers,
Mark
Edited by Rampage, 26 August 2009 - 02:35 PM.
#20
Posted 26 August 2009 - 03:03 PM
#21
Posted 20 March 2011 - 04:56 PM
None of the pics are working.. can anyone upload them?
I didnt really understand.. What do i need to do,to get this engine mounted in my car? only modify the motor mount and tranny mount, maybe a radiator that comes from that car. Do i need the SI harness? This car is meant for racing and i dont really need fancypancy stuff..
Im hoping for answers ASAP as the engine must be sold in 5days.....
Edit: have been reading some hours now and still not so many results as I want to see.. Ive read that it might be a pain in the butt swap.. but is it really that hard? The engine im getting has every bit that i need from the engine compartment.. Do i need other hubs,shift linkage,axles? :/
Edited by Scoore, 20 March 2011 - 07:07 PM.
#22
Posted 21 March 2011 - 10:38 AM
#23
Posted 21 March 2011 - 06:38 PM
-front engine mount (you must drag one of the two holes on the right of the mount, also you have to cut the mount in order to weld the mount again to get the far left hole to line up with the one in the block)
-rear tranny mount and bracket (the two bottom holes will bolt on but not the top one)
-bottom radiator hose
-original si harness´
Thats it then? only these things needed?
Do you mean the SI harness to the ECU or the car?
#24
Posted 04 July 2011 - 12:01 PM
#25
Posted 02 October 2015 - 08:40 PM
Anyways, its 2015 now and this guy just bought a z6 for 200$. Guess what I'm doing this winter?
Sent from my Z936L using Tapatalk
-Chris.
#26
Posted 28 November 2015 - 11:05 PM
I thank you kind sir for this awesome write-up! I'm glad to see it stickied!
Anyways, its 2015 now and this guy just bought a z6 for 200$. Guess what I'm doing this winter?
Sent from my Z936L using Tapatalk
So, I just did the D16Z6 engine and trans swap into my '87 CR-X Si. I started it for the 1st time today. I was waiting until all is complete to post, but may as well give you what I have learned so far. 1st off, great work on pioneering the way for this @Rextec. So, now in 2015 there is a Hasport engine mount kit and a hydro to cable conversion kit.
This is what is needed so far, to make things easier-
-Hasport cable to hydro- Part# EFDHCL $135 (Use existing cable and it actuates the clutch fork)
-Hasport engine mount kit- Part# AFD2-70A $360 or change to one of the below
- 62A Street (Black)
- 70A Race (Black)
- 88A Extreme Race (Black)
- 94A Most Extreme Race (Red)
-Hasport driver side axle- $247 with shipping (custom shorter length) No intermediate shaft used
-Stock pass side axle
-96-00 rear engine mount bracket (Cost me $20 at junk yard)
-I used a '95 Civic EX as my donor- engine, trans, engine harness and body harness, gauge cluster and fuse boxes and shifter and linkage. (no dash or heater box in my car)
-Looped engine harness to fuse box, back into car and mounted the under hood fuse box near the fr r/ of the firewall inside the car.
-Mounted the interior fuse box near the fr l/ of the firewall inside the car.
-Notch the frame for the alternator to fit and be adjusted. I put the '95 Civic pulley on the '87 CR-X alt, as it is smaller.
-Used the stock CR-X radiator
-Not sure which hoses I used? Sorry. But I had the CR-X and Civic hoses and modified the lower by cutting it shorter, to avoid the clutch adapter. Then cut one of the others and it made the bends pretty well for the upper hose.
-I didn't want to relocate the battery, so I bent and hammered the lower rear mount of the battery tray flat. It will then fit behind the Hasport trans mount.(not bolted there though.) Then you can bolt it down with the other 3 bolts.
-Mine is a race car, so I have no hood latch or anything. I have the 1 down bar mounted behind the radiator.
-I have a Megan Racing header 4-2-1, which lines up perfect to the catback, but you need to cut and re-weld where the flange is, as it doesn't line up the holes.
- I was told by Hasport, use the '95 linkage I had. Mount it, then mark it with lines on 4 sides. Measure the length to cut. Cut it, place metal tube or roll the cut metal and place it inside the cut(hollow) linkage, then re-weld. Lining up the 4 lines, so you know it didn't twist and has the correct angles.
The exhaust and linkage are what I have not completed yet.
Still need to cleanup all my electrical, but I only am running the fuel pump power feed wire, tail lights, and brake lights back.
Let me know if you have other questions. I had to do a lot of searching online, and still couldn't get all I needed.
- captainawsum likes this
#27
Posted 30 October 2016 - 09:17 PM
Thanks a ton man. I was supposed to start this earlier this year after i finally got into a house with a garage but i was in an unfortunate accident where i suffered a broken femur, as well as a fractured tibia and pelvis.So, I just did the D16Z6 engine and trans swap into my '87 CR-X Si. I started it for the 1st time today. I was waiting until all is complete to post, but may as well give you what I have learned so far. 1st off, great work on pioneering the way for this @Rextec. So, now in 2015 there is a Hasport engine mount kit and a hydro to cable conversion kit.
This is what is needed so far, to make things easier-
-Hasport cable to hydro- Part# EFDHCL $135 (Use existing cable and it actuates the clutch fork)
-Hasport engine mount kit- Part# AFD2-70A $360 or change to one of the below-Hasport driver side axle- $247 with shipping (custom shorter length) No intermediate shaft used
- 62A Street (Black)
- 70A Race (Black)
- 88A Extreme Race (Black)
- 94A Most Extreme Race (Red)
-Stock pass side axle
-96-00 rear engine mount bracket (Cost me $20 at junk yard)
-I used a '95 Civic EX as my donor- engine, trans, engine harness and body harness, gauge cluster and fuse boxes and shifter and linkage. (no dash or heater box in my car)
-Looped engine harness to fuse box, back into car and mounted the under hood fuse box near the fr r/ of the firewall inside the car.
-Mounted the interior fuse box near the fr l/ of the firewall inside the car.
-Notch the frame for the alternator to fit and be adjusted. I put the '95 Civic pulley on the '87 CR-X alt, as it is smaller.
-Used the stock CR-X radiator
-Not sure which hoses I used? Sorry. But I had the CR-X and Civic hoses and modified the lower by cutting it shorter, to avoid the clutch adapter. Then cut one of the others and it made the bends pretty well for the upper hose.
-I didn't want to relocate the battery, so I bent and hammered the lower rear mount of the battery tray flat. It will then fit behind the Hasport trans mount.(not bolted there though.) Then you can bolt it down with the other 3 bolts.
-Mine is a race car, so I have no hood latch or anything. I have the 1 down bar mounted behind the radiator.
-I have a Megan Racing header 4-2-1, which lines up perfect to the catback, but you need to cut and re-weld where the flange is, as it doesn't line up the holes.
- I was told by Hasport, use the '95 linkage I had. Mount it, then mark it with lines on 4 sides. Measure the length to cut. Cut it, place metal tube or roll the cut metal and place it inside the cut(hollow) linkage, then re-weld. Lining up the 4 lines, so you know it didn't twist and has the correct angles.
The exhaust and linkage are what I have not completed yet.
Still need to cleanup all my electrical, but I only am running the fuel pump power feed wire, tail lights, and brake lights back.
Let me know if you have other questions. I had to do a lot of searching online, and still couldn't get all I needed.
Six months later, im back on my feet and have a pretty good start on pulling the motor already. Thanks for your advice
-chris
Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
-Chris.
#28
Posted 01 November 2016 - 08:22 PM
Thanks a ton man. I was supposed to start this earlier this year after i finally got into a house with a garage but i was in an unfortunate accident where i suffered a broken femur, as well as a fractured tibia and pelvis.
Six months later, im back on my feet and have a pretty good start on pulling the motor already. Thanks for your advice
-chris
Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
No Problem. My D16z6 ended up having an issue. Pretty sure the block had some damage before I built it. 15min into a race the engine blew up in April. I then got a JDM drop in D15b VTEC and I have been racing it all season. Done very well with it and it is a little rocket. If you have questions or issues, let me know.
#29
Posted 16 November 2016 - 04:15 PM
#30
Posted 16 November 2016 - 08:40 PM
Safe to Assume that the same protocol for the ZC engine Swap?
I am not familiar with the ZC. Someone else may chime in. I do know that there are SOHC and DOHC ZC engines. Can you be more specific? VTEC or non, etc.