i believe that i have all of the plugs on the carb correctly, but what all else needs to be plugged, or have a line going to it? car dies if you let it go below 2700 rpms and i've messed with the mixture, and idle controller with no results, except for no backfires and running a bit smoother. Only other thing i can think of is a vacuum leak somewhere, but i can't figure out where.
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Vac. Lines From Carb...
Started by Kain, Dec 13 2004 04:37 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 13 December 2004 - 04:37 PM
#2
Posted 13 December 2004 - 07:47 PM
Kain,
Check the vacuum diagram posted under the hood or get a copy from the manual link on this site. All the vacuum lines have white numbers printed on them. These numbers correspond to the numbers on the diagram.
Are you using the stock USDM carb?
Check the vacuum diagram posted under the hood or get a copy from the manual link on this site. All the vacuum lines have white numbers printed on them. These numbers correspond to the numbers on the diagram.
Are you using the stock USDM carb?
Going to Hawaii? You need a Dune Buggy.
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#3
Posted 13 December 2004 - 08:06 PM
oops, i suppose i should have mentioned that the emissions boxes have been removed. yes, it is the stock usdm carb. looks just like this one: http://www.redpepper...gallery/albun80
the diagram doesn't really help me much, as most of the lines are gone and i only need to know which ones are necessary for it to run normally.
but, would a vac leak cause it to not BE ABLE to idle below 2700 rpms or so? cuz if i take it any lower it just dies.
the diagram doesn't really help me much, as most of the lines are gone and i only need to know which ones are necessary for it to run normally.
but, would a vac leak cause it to not BE ABLE to idle below 2700 rpms or so? cuz if i take it any lower it just dies.
Ay!
Ay, dog, ay!
You stepped on my sneaker meng!
Ay, dog, ay!
You stepped on my sneaker meng!
#4
Posted 13 December 2004 - 10:47 PM
It could. Is your throttle snapping back all the way? Are your butterfly valves returning to all the way closed without your foot on the gas? Are you waiting for the car to warm up? Will the idle go down after the car is warmed up? A closed choke will make the idle go up to around 2000-2500RPM. That is normal.
Going to Hawaii? You need a Dune Buggy.
WTB: 14x8 or 9" Panasports or Watanabe RS.
WTB: 3g Civic hatch gauge cowl, brown.
WTB: ZC header--FOUND
#5
Posted 13 December 2004 - 11:51 PM
i haven't got to look at the choke and throttle when it's running much, i'll have someone else in the seat next chance i get to see.
yes, i let it warm up, and it went down from 3000+ to about 2700. then if i mess with the idle controller to lower it, it just sputters and dies.
edit: it also has a manual choke, if this makes any difference, but it is all the way open i think, not positive though.
yes, i let it warm up, and it went down from 3000+ to about 2700. then if i mess with the idle controller to lower it, it just sputters and dies.
edit: it also has a manual choke, if this makes any difference, but it is all the way open i think, not positive though.
Edited by Kain, 13 December 2004 - 11:51 PM.
Ay!
Ay, dog, ay!
You stepped on my sneaker meng!
Ay, dog, ay!
You stepped on my sneaker meng!
#6
Posted 14 December 2004 - 03:12 PM
Make sure the choke is all the way open when the vehicle is warm. All the vacuum lines are basically for emissions purposes, other than the ones that open the secondary. Is your secondary hanging open? That'll make your RPMs go up too.
Going to Hawaii? You need a Dune Buggy.
WTB: 14x8 or 9" Panasports or Watanabe RS.
WTB: 3g Civic hatch gauge cowl, brown.
WTB: ZC header--FOUND