19 replies to this topic

[BGPKR]

Originally I was going to install side drafts on my CRX dx but with the gas sky rocketing and a decreased budget I opted for a Weber 32/36. I swaped to an Si head with CDM intake manifold, Hedman headers and the Weber. I swapped over the DX cam in the Si head to retain the dx mechanical fuel pump and dizzy. Over all the car runs much better than stock. I just went through a tank of gas of all city driving and still got 30 mpg. The thing that gets me is tuning this damn carb. I can't keep a consistent idle. I can be idling anywhere from, wanting to stall, to 2k rpms. This is frustrating. Also I have no idea on how to tune this carb other than idle. Pierce manifolds site only give information on tuning idle. What about the in the upper rpm range??? I have also been fighting a surging idle and have found a few vaccuum leaks, I believe that I have taken care of all them but still not sure. Any and all input would be appreciated. I also think it's running a little hot. It seems like the fan is always kicking on. The temp guage is right in the middle. I haven't driven this car very much so I can't recall where the normal temp is.

Thanks

[WickedClown]

pressure test ya cooling system for leaks and check ya thermostat in boiling water. i dont see how a new carby can be overheating the car .. although i have heard that webers can super heat a cat ...
also is your carby jetted to a 1.6 lt, webers get to a certain point where you just can tune them anymore..
i found a great site on tuning webers ( 32/36 ) it was a suzuki site i believe for 4x4's google it and see what you get.. or just google tuning 32/36 webers

good luck
Marcus

[Maine_Honda_Racer]

If the carb is running too lean, it certainly could be causing overheating. In order to tune the upper ranges you will need jets and emulsion tubes to make changes.

[BGPKR]

If the carb is running too lean, it certainly could be causing overheating. In order to tune the upper ranges you will need jets and emulsion tubes to make changes.

It's supposed to be jetted for a 1.5 according to Pierce Manifolds, which is where I bought it from.

[73hp]

anyone got jet suggestions ????i had mine done at a auto shop and they "tuned" it for me for best economy as per spec...whatever.....but it does pull hard as hell...idles a little high though...i am gonna do the dremmel mod soon.that should help

Edited by 73hp, 06 July 2007 - 02:29 PM.

[esty]

i'm considering putting a 32/36 on my 87 crx...i have several that i've run on my BMW 2002's...i know i'll have to buy an adaptor plate and found them online but what about throttle linkage...is there a kit or is it something that has to be fab'd....

anyone have pictures of the weber installed?

[Omega Mugen]

This is what I did for my linkage: a large nut and bolt, two fender washers, a small nut a bolt, and a return spring for extra return. Drill a hole for the end barrel of the throttle cable into each fender washer and insert the barrel. Although there are many various kinds of Weber throttle levers. The bolt through the center just worked for this particular one.

[esty]

This is what I did for my linkage: a large nut and bolt, two fender washers, a small nut a bolt, and a return spring for extra return. Drill a hole for the end barrel of the throttle cable into each fender washer and insert the barrel. Although there are many various kinds of Weber throttle levers. The bolt through the center just worked for this particular one.

thanks, that seems simple enough...looks like you have to shorten the throttle cable though...right?

what kind of air cleaner is that you're using?

[Omega Mugen]

I should shorten the cable, but I didn't. I made a loop around the carb. The problem with the DMTR is the throttle lever configuration is not ideal. I don't care at this point because I am going to switch to a DCNF, which is the same configuration as the stock carb, so no need to shorten.

The "filter" is a K+N cone at the end of some 2.5 inch piping connected to a modified 88-91 Civic dual point fuel injection air plenum, which is what you see on top of the carb. The aluminum top has been stripped of the paint and polished.

[BGPKR]

anyone got jet suggestions ????i had mine done at a auto shop and they "tuned" it for me for best economy as per spec...whatever.....but it does pull hard as hell...idles a little high though...i am gonna do the dremmel mod soon.that should help

What is the dremel mod? I'm need to find out what i'm experiencing and how to fix it. The car runs great but when trying to wind out the revs I hit a dead spot around around 4500-5000 rpm's. Not sure what the problem is here.

[73hp]

I had to do some searching but I found the pic that lilneedle had posted some time ago which I used as a reference for installing a progressive carb like the Weber 32/36. Opening up the CVCC intake can be done pretty easily with the intake still on the vehicle if you're careful... I stuffed 4-5 small rags tightly (don't use old socks, cut-up T-shirts are best!) in the intake ports and covered them with about a quarter inch thick layer of multipurpose grease or Vaseline to trap most of the shavings. I then proceeded to remove the portion shown in the picture with a fiberglass reinforced Dremel cutoff wheel. Just have to leave enough room around your rags in the center to get the Dremel in there and the nice part about that is that you can even harmlessly cut into the fabric a bit if necessary. The actual cutting itself is easiest if you mark it with a sharpie and make cuts along those lines and then you can cut in the middle and slice downwards at an angle toward each edge to make a few wedge shaped pieces to remove. Then you'll be able to grind your way down to where it should be a lot easier. Once you're satisfied with how it looks, make it as smooth as possible and then blow all the excess shavings out of your engine bay with an air hose. After that you can carefully pull your rags out along with most of the remaining shavings! Wash your hands and feel all around the inside of the ports to make sure your rags are all out and remove any more shavings that may have fallen in there so they don't get sucked into your engine. Slap your carb back on and it will deliver a more consistent mix to the runners and perform better than ever!

Reduced: 80% of original size [ 640 x 480 ] - Click to view full image

[73hp]

I had to do some searching but I found the pic that lilneedle had posted some time ago which I used as a reference for installing a progressive carb like the Weber 32/36. Opening up the CVCC intake can be done pretty easily with the intake still on the vehicle if you're careful... I stuffed 4-5 small rags tightly (don't use old socks, cut-up T-shirts are best!) in the intake ports and covered them with about a quarter inch thick layer of multipurpose grease or Vaseline to trap most of the shavings. I then proceeded to remove the portion shown in the picture with a fiberglass reinforced Dremel cutoff wheel. Just have to leave enough room around your rags in the center to get the Dremel in there and the nice part about that is that you can even harmlessly cut into the fabric a bit if necessary. The actual cutting itself is easiest if you mark it with a sharpie and make cuts along those lines and then you can cut in the middle and slice downwards at an angle toward each edge to make a few wedge shaped pieces to remove. Then you'll be able to grind your way down to where it should be a lot easier. Once you're satisfied with how it looks, make it as smooth as possible and then blow all the excess shavings out of your engine bay with an air hose. After that you can carefully pull your rags out along with most of the remaining shavings! Wash your hands and feel all around the inside of the ports to make sure your rags are all out and remove any more shavings that may have fallen in there so they don't get sucked into your engine. Slap your carb back on and it will deliver a more consistent mix to the runners and perform better than ever!
this one....

Edited by 73hp, 10 July 2007 - 09:12 AM.

[BGPKR]

Oh yeah, I remember reading that post. It won't do me any good since i'm using the CDM intake manifold and Si head.

[87CivicDXguy]

Opening up the divider in the CVCC intake will most definitely help A LOT with your upper RPM bogging issues more so than any amount of re-jetting will ever do... I found that out the hard way!!! Doing the dremel intake mod also boosted my mileage from the low 20's to right around 30MPG average so I'm happy with that! You might want to make sure your timing and plugs are like they should be if you've been choking off the CVCC port and secondary plenum previously. I actually had a couple of Bosch platinum plugs blister and the crack insulators and partially melt the electrode from running way lean with too much advance before I cut my intake. I swear almost every Honda ever made runs better with NGK plugs and now that's all I use in mine. I'm back with Redline Weber's recommended factory jetting for my 32/36 and am quite content with it the way it is... it will hesitate for a split second around hard left hand corners until you give it a little more gas and then she'll pull hard and even bark the tires when it hits second... not bad for a Hondamatic huh? I don't wanna hear how I need to convert to manual cuz I'm gonna run this one till it's toast and then we'll see about a manual swap! As far as any overheating goes, flush the old crap out and put in some fresh stuff along with about a half a bottle of Redline Water Wetter (NAPA and some truckstops have the stuff) which really aids heat transfer and is especially noticable when you're running it hard all the time... I bet I'm running at least 15-20 degrees cooler just by adding only about 6 ounces of the water wetter! I've never had a vehicle with previous boilover issues overheat at all with this stuff in it. It's good stuff... try it, you'll like it!

[BGPKR]

Opening up the divider in the CVCC intake will most definitely help A LOT with your upper RPM bogging issues more so than any amount of re-jetting will ever do... I found that out the hard way!!! Doing the dremel intake mod also boosted my mileage from the low 20's to right around 30MPG average so I'm happy with that! You might want to make sure your timing and plugs are like they should be if you've been choking off the CVCC port and secondary plenum previously. I actually had a couple of Bosch platinum plugs blister and the crack insulators and partially melt the electrode from running way lean with too much advance before I cut my intake. I swear almost every Honda ever made runs better with NGK plugs and now that's all I use in mine. I'm back with Redline Weber's recommended factory jetting for my 32/36 and am quite content with it the way it is... it will hesitate for a split second around hard left hand corners until you give it a little more gas and then she'll pull hard and even bark the tires when it hits second... not bad for a Hondamatic huh? I don't wanna hear how I need to convert to manual cuz I'm gonna run this one till it's toast and then we'll see about a manual swap! As far as any overheating goes, flush the old crap out and put in some fresh stuff along with about a half a bottle of Redline Water Wetter (NAPA and some truckstops have the stuff) which really aids heat transfer and is especially noticable when you're running it hard all the time... I bet I'm running at least 15-20 degrees cooler just by adding only about 6 ounces of the water wetter! I've never had a vehicle with previous boilover issues overheat at all with this stuff in it. It's good stuff... try it, you'll like it!

I've used Redline Water Wetter in my STi for over 4 years and it works great. I didn't think of using it in the crx. Also I don't have the CVCC port since I swapped to an Si head and CDM intake manifold. I'm still having the issues of it bogging above 4k rpm's. It does runs a lot better than stock but I anticipated it would run a lot better than this. Maybe if I had the head shaved like I orignally going to do may have made a difference. I understand from reading on this site that an Si head swap without being shaved will result in a loss of compression. But the only place reputable place in the area wanted $300 just to shave .040 from the head.