5 replies to this topic

[3gencivic]

hey i have bought a carb for my car but as useual i asked if it is a drop on an was told yes well its not not even close. so my question is. is it better for me to give it back and get my money or is it easy to modify a manifold to fit it,

in better detail the carb i got has a mounting plate with bigger bolts then my stock and the hole if you look at it at a birds eye from standin at the front of car. the top right bolt is off center to the plate the other 3 fit. then the next problem is all the linkage on my car is on the passenger side and the new carb is on the driver side. so im i fucked or is it doable for the cost and time. its only a weber 32/34 dmtl for a rover 213.

any help is thanked

[davens]

I did quite a bit of research when putting a 32/36 DGEV on my ZC...

Initially, I bought an adaptor plate for the 84-87 Civic/CRX. It was D-shaped and bolted to the Civic/CRX intake manifold. The Weber, which is a pretty universal bolt pattern, bolted onto to the adaptor.

This part didn't work on the ZC but it would have made the 32/36 DGEV a bolt in job if I was using the stock carb'd EW or D15a engine.

The adaptor plate was $36 from:
Jim at Allstate Carburetor & Fuel Injection Inc
143 Brightside Ave
Central Islip NY 11722
toll free 1866 HP CARBS (472 2727)


I had to make an adaptor plate for the ZC. Between the chunk of aluminum and time on a buddy's mill, I hate to think what it would have cost if I had to pay for the mill time.
You could try fabricating your own adaptor but just material and labor involved made the $36 a bargain.

[OldSkoolEX]

anyone know what kind of power gains can be had from using either of those carbs on an ew2?

Edited by OldSkoolEX, 05 April 2004 - 06:14 AM.

[davens]

The 32/36 DGEV is supposed to be a 15% increase in power and modest improvements in gas mileage.

It's hard for me to verify because I swapped in a ZC at the same time with a host of bolt ons.

It is a simpler setup. Easy to set a baseline and tune...very forgiving.
You'll also end up ditching all the vaccum related emissions equipment.
I tried to stay pseudo legal:
kept the catalytic conv.
Plugged in the 02 sensor but doesn't control anything...will eventually feed an a/f gauge. At least it looks connected come inspection time.
Rigged a fuel pressure regulator that returns excess fuel and hooked up the charcoal canister...the 32/36 DGEV doesn't have a forced fuel return line.

You'll also need to turn fuel pressure down from stock...the Webers are designed for 3-3.5 psi while stock was showing just over 5 psi.

[3gencivic]

ok so if i can mod a manifold to fit the carb how do i change the fuel down the psi.?

and if i get a manifold i will get one at the wreckers so will a crx man be better then a civic or are htey the same. if so i have a lot of the civic ones, or is there a diff between the 1.3 and the 1.5 manifolds

[davens]

I can't answer on the differences between oem carb civic/crx manifolds.

To dial down the the fuel pressure, use a good old fashion adjustable fuel pressure regulator rated for the range you will be targeting.
I got one from Summitt Racing rated 3-12 psi...it's opened up all the way to get down to 3-3.5 psi. But it works and the weber is much happier then when I was trying to run it at 6 psi.