Red Pepper Racing

I like the Edelbrock one, but my friend tried the "JG/Edelbrock" one on his DA Integra with a B16 and it hit his brake booster, which makes me worry...

The Performer X is a long as fuck manifold, the VictorX is short and squaty.

^+1

Victor X is more for high rpm + power. My friend used to work at a race shop in NC and he told me they had flow tested alot of manifolds and the X being the highest flow w/out work being done to it. Plus alot of race teams use it, mainly with the option of the added 4 injectors.

I would deff. not go w/out getting a wideband. Two reasons, if it were to lean out it can cause harm(not so much with N/A setups but leaning out is never a good thing), and for tuning A/F needs to be a safe level for maximum HP's. Also helps with keeping the combustion chamber cool(disapating heat, with A/F where they should be and preventing detonation). From what I have seen and learned 12.5-13.5 A/F is good for N/A. Most shops have the o2 option put on their dyno's just for tuning but its always a good thing to be able to monitor it.

B16(42.7cc CC) vs GSR head(41.6cc CC). The GSR head has a smaller combustion chamber, which raises CR and helps prevent detonation(I believe its more of the design that contributes to preventing detonation) I am not for sure which flows more but since you are porting yours, it's not really going to matter anymore, ya know lol.

Just in case you have any questions about a SK2 manifold, I have Innovative mounts(so those deusche bags) put the motor closer to the firewall. Which makes my Sk2 mani hit, the brake booster line and IAC rub. I would say using Hasports would decrease the chances of a aftermarket IM to firewall contact though. Also the Sk2 has shorter runners compared to ITR, since stock ones curve up, the SK2 is more straight and runners are larger.

Also use a closer gear ratio transmission if you would like to stay in your powerband. I had a LS in mine and by far the worst choice. 1st and 2nd were the only to gears worth using, but finding traction in 1st made it even more difficult. Mainly my high redline made that combination suck, but either way a b16 or gsr is the way to go. Put it this way, I maxed out 3rd at about 120 and thats to fun when your saying to yourself damn I really should be shifting right now, lol(but thats with the high redline).

Side note if you can not find a B series VTEC solenoid, find a D series one they will work on B's. They are pretty much the exact same, and yes I have seen them swapped before.

Yeah, I went with the Victor X! I think it'll work out nicely, and all the ports are moved to the back to keep things clean.

My b16 head is definitely ported and decked, so it should be fun to see how that works out. Gotta test it before I start her up and make sure I'm not slapping valves haha.

I am currently awaiting the arrival of my manifold, and all the parts to rebuild my bottom end.

Also, I'm doing my Integra discs this weekend!


Almost forgot, I talked to a guy at DC a while ago and he said for my combo I would need a header for an LS or GSR Integra, in order for it to be long enough to clear the oil pan. This is the one I want AHC6507- DCsports Header

Anyone have any experience?

DC Sport makes a good header, but its not the best by far.

Remembering the rest of your build, a good header will be the best option to gain some power. Being a modestly modded NA motor, the intake and exhaust will make the most difference.

In order of what i like best
http://sms-products.com/Headers.html
http://www.theoldone...ing_headers.htm
http://www.inlinefou...dbsercomex.html
http://www.sixsigmar...com/bseries.htm
http://www.inlinefou...cer1pc4in1.html
http://www.skunk2.co...ode=412-05-0900
http://www.inlinefou...hiendbtrhe.html
http://www.inlinefou.../blra4trhe.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item23080658eb

I personally bought the last one, the $100 Ebay special. Ill be using it on my car for the time being. Eventually ill be purchasing the SMSP header. Almost all of the ones i posted are longer than a normal header so you'll have to shorten your exhaust some. And possibly move/modify your radiator fan. I haven't installed the Ebay one on my car yet, but it looks like ill have to either dent the radiator fan or move it/buy a slimline fan. You'll have to watch out for some of the designs we don't have as much room on our cars as the 92+ Civic's and 94+ Integra's. Look for a header that comes out of the head then goes strait down. Something like the RMF Narrow or the Bisimoto header probably wouldn't fit in our cars without a Half size radiator and some mods to the radiator support and others.

You'll want to look for a 4-1 header, the Tri-Y design should lead to the most amount of power. There is a literal ton of dyno comparisons on HT for most of the headers i listed.

You'll need to buy a header for a LS/B20/GSR/ITR/CTR. The B16A is the only header thats different, its shorter because the B16A has a shorter deck height. All of the 1.8's and Civic Type R have the normal deck height. All of them have the same bolt pattern so thats not a concern. Just fitting between the head and oil pan is the only problem with the B16A headers.

But I've always wanted a DC header...

Those headers are 3-4 times as expensive, are they designed that much better?

Im not saying dont buy a DC Sport. But i would go with a 4-1 design over the 4-2-1.

Finally got my brake lines in the mail, here's the setup!
Didn't get any pictures before I put the wheels on...

After some shipping delay, finally got my intake this morning. Always impressed with Edelbrock quality! I'm gonna have to try it on the engine soon.

nice! Hope it flows well for you.

Just slapped the stuff on to see how it fits

Got my bottom end rebuild parts in the mail today-

and no, that's not a roll of condoms on the right!

You mean left, right?

Either!

What throttle body does that call for considering the funky IACV port on the upper left (or as you may know it, lower right since your sight is inverted )