11 replies to this topic

[Kassper007]

after lots of trial and error on my fav program, ive come to the conclusion that my previous plan would be slow as a box of rocks uphill, so my plan has changed, when i aquire my Si head, its gonna spend about a week between the flowbench and the 12 axis cnc, and since no one makes a cam in the specs i want, my old boat racing buddy is going to cut me one from a custom billet, (i love knowing old racers) specs will be around 298 advertised/ 264 at .050/ with about 540"lift, yes very big, the pistons i had originally planned to use were off the shelf japanese NOS, but both sets i was after have been sold, so again, custom forged blanks will be cut and shaped to my cam and head, for a 11.6:1 compression ratio,basic blueprinting to bottom end, arp fasteners, balance crank, and a set of pauter rods, my intake is in the making for my 46mm mikunis,its an all aluminum, custom weld job done by a man named jimmy swayze, hes awsome with a welding torch, and a set of nodular iron main caps and girdle,(i may market this piece since it was easy to machine), from what all my other racing buddys say, it should hold up to a 125 nitrous shot, wich will be the progressive fogger set i have from an older car,all said, according to my DD program, i should achieve between 200 and 240 on motor, plus nitrous, with a 1480 lb race weight, with traction and perfect weather, its said to run hi 9s lo 10s, in the 120-130 range,

now, my question, as far as old heavy v 8 cars go DD has been very close to predictions in real world racing, do these numbers sound possible with a honda, i mean 9s is flying, and with only 320est, whp, i dunno, i was happy when DD said that, but after a day to think, im not sure it will work out, well im ranting, let me know what you honda pros think about this, even if it only goes to the hi 10s ill be happy

[Moose]

120 to 130 is anywhere from 11.90's to 10.40's. You wont see 9's at that trap speed.

[rollz87civic]

9's can be dun but idk out of a d15 that might be pushing it..


and high compression + nitrous = SON OF A BITCH


honda's dont like high compression + nitrous

[Kassper007]

120 to 130 is anywhere from 11.90's to 10.40's. You wont see 9's at that trap speed.

my comet ran 11s at 130, no traction to start then as traction came in it took off, after we put ladder bars and slicks it turned lo 9s at over 150, but hell 10s would be goodenuff for grudge races and brackets, thanks

[eldo]

It would be interesting to see what a properly built up EW could handle (did you consider any type of post blocking or are you just going to cement the block?)
DD is fairly accurate but does not account for fwd traction problems(at least mine didn't-it's 4 years old) I believe i heard somewhere that it costs an extra 100 hp to run a fwd as fast as rwd.(It's been awhile since i heard that also so that might have changed again by now.)
By the way,this kinda hot rodding is what i really like. Keep us posted on how it goes.

[Moose]

my comet ran 11s at 130, no traction to start then as traction came in it took off, after we put ladder bars and slicks it turned lo 9s at over 150, but hell 10s would be goodenuff for grudge races and brackets, thanks

dang! i'd like to see ome video of that!

[Kassper007]

It would be interesting to see what a properly built up EW could handle (did you consider any type of post blocking or are you just going to cement the block?)
DD is fairly accurate but does not account for fwd traction problems(at least mine didn't-it's 4 years old) I believe i heard somewhere that it costs an extra 100 hp to run a fwd as fast as rwd.(It's been awhile since i heard that also so that might have changed again by now.)
By the way,this kinda hot rodding is what i really like. Keep us posted on how it goes.

what ive done to strengthen the block goes as follows

machined custom nodular iron main caps, from 1 inch thick sheet stock, heat treated, custom made main studs from recut small block chevy studs, and a carbon steel machined cap girdle made from 3/8 sheet stock, its got slots and covers the bottom of the crank like a windage tray, as far as the top, we cut out the old cylinder sleeves (made of a super hard alloy that isnt supposed to be bored out, but no one tells you this,lol) and replaced with sleeves made for an an air cooled airplane engine, wich are first cryogenically frozen for 1 week to realign the molecules, its like heat treating without the chance of a heat fatigue, and of course a set of pauter rods, actually for another engine( dont know what engine, they were sitting at the shop and i bought em for cheap, cause no one knows where they come from) but they are 2/10 longer than stock and i have to make thicker bearings for them as the main journals are a lil larger,but since im machining my own opistons from blanks, it works out great, we cut an aluminum top cylinder girdle, kinda like what you can buy, but is 2.5 inches tall and is pressed in before the cylinder liners, then we resize everything and press the liners, this removes the chance of a weld causing cylinder distortion, since most other cylinder girdles are weld in, zero gap rings custom ordered(the most expensive part so far $300)
all this done in a motorcycle shop, im getting alot of help from my bike racing buddy and his boat racing dad, i went to school to build race cars, im good but still young, these guys been at it for about 60 combined years, and im so glad they agreed to help with this project, i dont know how much it would cost to buy these things we are building, but i know its not cheap,i been trading labor for materials, maybe it will work, maybe it will blow the fuck up, but its gonna give us all some awsome R&D,lol

let me know if anyone has suggestions or questions,

i may decide to build and market the mains and girdles, with a stud set for about 500 bucks, thats nodular iron main caps,carbon steel cap girdle/windage tray,cylinder girdle, and full custom cut arp pro series studs set, lemme know

[87MugenProCR-X]

My experience with DD is that is not accurate at all.

Julian

[Kassper007]

My experience with DD is that is not accurate at all.

Julian

is your experience with the home version or the version you cant get unless your an accredited automotive school, and pay $1100, i have both and yes the home version is shit, the institutional version has alot more paramaters to add into your equation, hence its for automotive raceing and engineering schools, and takes alot of know how about volumetric effecientcy and things like that

[87MugenProCR-X]

Both actually.

Julian

[rollz87civic]

dang! i'd like to see ome video of that!

+1

[Kassper007]

dang! i'd like to see ome video of that!

i have 1 video i will try to put up, its the one time i was booted from a dragstrip for exceeding safe speeds per equipment,lol