I'm running a D16a1 with a garrett turbo with an AR of .48, the fmu is a vortec, with a 12:1 ratio plate in it. The car is now extremly fast but very hard on fuel, so much, that i failed my emissions test by over 10 times the allowed amout. Its running very rich, so much that when i go full throttle, i'm have unspent fuel blowing out my exaust. Im ordering the plates to bring down my fuel ratio, and i'm going to run the car on the dyno, but could there be some other reason besides this for the car running so rich? Everyone says I have to put a one way valve to fool the map sensor, but when I did that, the car ran like shit, and barely ran at that. Did i put the valve on the wrong vacuum line? Could running without this one way valve (which is what i'm doing) make my car run rich? Where again does this one way valve go? thanks
2
Running Rich?
Started by onefasthondacrx, Apr 28 2006 01:00 PM
13 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 28 April 2006 - 01:00 PM
#2
Posted 01 May 2006 - 02:41 PM
#3
Posted 01 May 2006 - 07:42 PM
Its a 1987 Integra Engine, a D16a1.
When you turn your car on, does it return the favor?
#4
Posted 05 May 2006 - 04:47 AM
its the fmu ratio. work your way down to a lower ratio that gives you a better air/fuel ratio. you should be able to check a/f on the dyno and adjust from there if they have a wide band o2.
#5
Posted 05 May 2006 - 08:24 AM
are you running larger injectors? 'cause you shouldn't be!
yes, you do need the check-valve on the map sensor's vac line; it makes the ecu think the engine's not under boost. and you could try the 10:1 fmu disc aswell, but i think the 12:1 is recommended.
*an fmu should probably not be used on applications going over 8psi.
yes, you do need the check-valve on the map sensor's vac line; it makes the ecu think the engine's not under boost. and you could try the 10:1 fmu disc aswell, but i think the 12:1 is recommended.
*an fmu should probably not be used on applications going over 8psi.
#6
Posted 06 May 2006 - 08:11 PM
youre probably runnign in backup mode without the check valve causing it to run rich. when you install the check valve you instll it incorrectley causing the map sensor readings to eb thrown off.
this is how you install it.
this is how you install it.
Edited by CRXdan, 06 May 2006 - 08:13 PM.
90 crx si
13.17@113 street tires low boost
86 samurai g16 turbo
13.17@113 street tires low boost
86 samurai g16 turbo
#7
Posted 08 May 2006 - 12:14 AM
i don't understand your drawing, sorry. think you caould trya gain, thanks....
When you turn your car on, does it return the favor?
#8
Posted 08 May 2006 - 12:19 AM
I don't understand why there are so many T's for the check valves. do you want me to vent the check vales where?whats the orientation of the valves? why 3 valves. I had one on the vacuum line when i did the turbo, and the car ran like shit, what did i do wrong, sorry. and thanks
When you turn your car on, does it return the favor?
#9
Posted 08 May 2006 - 11:26 AM
u need to use three t's if you are using the fish tank check valves, if you are using a missing link than you don't need the t's. the missing link should be inline with the vac. line from the map sensor, the map sensor needs to suck air in (correct way)
the fmu will work, you will either have to swap out the discs or buy a fuel pressure reg. also to adjust the fuel pressure without boost (makes a big difference)
do not use bigger injectors with a fmu, they are not needed. also you are still running your stock fuel pressure reg. right? if you took it off, put it back on.
worse case, you have to wire open the wastegate, disconnect the fmu, and than go run your car. that way no boost, no added fuel, pass emmisions.
the fmu will work, you will either have to swap out the discs or buy a fuel pressure reg. also to adjust the fuel pressure without boost (makes a big difference)
do not use bigger injectors with a fmu, they are not needed. also you are still running your stock fuel pressure reg. right? if you took it off, put it back on.
worse case, you have to wire open the wastegate, disconnect the fmu, and than go run your car. that way no boost, no added fuel, pass emmisions.
#10
Posted 09 May 2006 - 06:08 AM
I'm sorry, but I'm just not getting this. Put this in english please. What is a "missing link"? What I don't understand is why I need 3 check valves on one line of hose. And where does the valve go to, whats its orientation? It comes in one end from the vacuum hose and where does the others end of the check valve go to? to atmosphere? It just doesn't make sence to me.thanks
When you turn your car on, does it return the favor?
#11
Posted 09 May 2006 - 06:26 AM
I looked up the "missing link" your talking about, and found that its actually called a blox map sensor bypass valve. I'm going to buy it, but I need to know if I need the type "A" or the type "B". thanks, and sorry for all the confusion.
When you turn your car on, does it return the favor?
#12
Posted 13 May 2006 - 07:01 AM
#13
Posted 13 May 2006 - 07:12 AM
QUOTE (onefasthondacrx @ May 13 2006, 06:01 AM)
well?
why not just use the aqaurium check valves? they'll do the same thing and cost a lot less.
#14
Posted 13 May 2006 - 12:41 PM
I did use the aquarium check vlave, it didn't work, made my car run like shit. I'll just spend the 40 bucks to buy the right part. But i need to know which blox missing like to run. the "A" or the "B", i'm pretty sure its the "B", just I just want to double check with you guys.
Edited by onefasthondacrx, 13 May 2006 - 12:43 PM.
When you turn your car on, does it return the favor?