Thank you RPR for making the transmission subforum, I took longer than expected to create this Guide.. i was waiting for the 4 speed so i could compare them side by side.. The 4 speed transmission and 5 speed transmissons have the same synchros, i have replaced the synchros in my 5 speed.... Both transmissions can be rebuilt using this guide as they are Exactly the same Besides 5th gear in the 5 speed........ i did notice that 4th gear in the 4 spd is approximately the same size as the 5th gear from the 5 spd....
If anyone has any questions/suggestions to make this thread better... feel free to ask/inqure... Enjoy the guide... my gift to redpepperracing.com
SUGGESTIONS:
For anyone doing this for their first time... Having chapter 15 from the FSM on paper will make this VERY EASY
Because your transmission is already open and all apart it is best to Replace all the bearings, there is a page in the manual which tells you which parts should be Replaced upon rebuild...
If you would like to change your differential this would be the time to do so.
Tools Required:
3/8" rachet
3/8" Extension/s
3/8" 10mm Socket
3/8" 12mm Socket
5mm Pin punch
Bearing Puller
Philips Screw Driver
NOTES:
http://www.teammfact...-lined-synchros
KA5MT Transmission Rebuild Kit $189.00 Seals & Synchros included
* to lock up the transmission to remove the nut in Step 5, i hear some use a soda bottle cap between the gears and it locks it up.... i used a vice (not reusing that part so i didnt care too much)
* Remove ALL spring pins so you don have to fight with the puzzle of putting the shift rods/forks in the right order so it goes together....
Step #1: Remove the detent Retainer Screws & detent spring/ball:
Step #2: Unscrew all 5th gear housing bolts:
Step #3: Open transmission by removing the 5th gear housing (Chapter 15 Page 7 #1):
Step #4: removing the spring pin to the 5th gear fork, then remove the fork and 5th gear syncros/gears (Chapter 15 Page 9):
Step #5: remove 32mm Nut and remove 5th gear:
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*sticky* Ka5mt/ 4 Speed Official Rebuild Thread
Started by bigboi407, Dec 22 2011 10:40 AM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 22 December 2011 - 10:40 AM
1984-1987 HONDA CIVIC CRX PARTS FOR SALE 1/25/12
I drive with a Lead-foot for Two Reasons--> 1. i like to be out front of the idiots that dont know how to drive 2. i like to the hear the sound of my engine..
I drive with a Lead-foot for Two Reasons--> 1. i like to be out front of the idiots that dont know how to drive 2. i like to the hear the sound of my engine..
#2
Posted 22 December 2011 - 10:41 AM
Step #6: take out all housing bolts and remove the housing:
Step #7: Remove shift forks/plate AND Reverse gear (Chapter 15 Page 10 #1 AND Page 11):
Step #8: remove the mainshaft:
Step #9: Remove Countershaft:
Step #10: Dissassemble Countershaft (Chapter 15 Page 15):
Step #11: Remove differential to replace bearings:
Step #12: Remove Remaining bearings and Replace Oil Seal:
Assembly:
Follow the steps in reverse and remember to put everything together back the way you took it apart use RTV to seal the transmission and you should have no parts/bolts/springs left (OBVIOUSLY)
Step #7: Remove shift forks/plate AND Reverse gear (Chapter 15 Page 10 #1 AND Page 11):
Step #8: remove the mainshaft:
Step #9: Remove Countershaft:
Step #10: Dissassemble Countershaft (Chapter 15 Page 15):
Step #11: Remove differential to replace bearings:
Step #12: Remove Remaining bearings and Replace Oil Seal:
Assembly:
Follow the steps in reverse and remember to put everything together back the way you took it apart use RTV to seal the transmission and you should have no parts/bolts/springs left (OBVIOUSLY)
1984-1987 HONDA CIVIC CRX PARTS FOR SALE 1/25/12
I drive with a Lead-foot for Two Reasons--> 1. i like to be out front of the idiots that dont know how to drive 2. i like to the hear the sound of my engine..
I drive with a Lead-foot for Two Reasons--> 1. i like to be out front of the idiots that dont know how to drive 2. i like to the hear the sound of my engine..
#3
Posted 22 December 2011 - 05:24 PM
QUOTE (bigboi407 @ Dec 22 2011, 08:41 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Step #6: take out all housing bolts and remove the housing:
Step #7: Remove shift forks/plate AND Reverse gear (Chapter 15 Page 10 #1 AND Page 11):
Step #8: remove the mainshaft:
Step #9: Remove Countershaft:
Step #10: Dissassemble Countershaft (Chapter 15 Page 15):
Step #11: Remove differential to replace bearings:
If you have gotten this far, Replacing the seals/bearings should be self explanitory.....
Step #7: Remove shift forks/plate AND Reverse gear (Chapter 15 Page 10 #1 AND Page 11):
Step #8: remove the mainshaft:
Step #9: Remove Countershaft:
Step #10: Dissassemble Countershaft (Chapter 15 Page 15):
Step #11: Remove differential to replace bearings:
If you have gotten this far, Replacing the seals/bearings should be self explanitory.....
Very cool, thanks. I think I could try it now. Any special tools, besides pressing bearings off and on? And what parts need to be changed when in there: synchros, seals, bearings (just the two on the differential or are there more)? And I think these rebuild kits are readily available from transmission supply stores.
MTCRX
1987 CRX-SI
Daily driver, autocross, and track days. Fun car and getting better with each improvement learned from RPR members.
1987 CRX-SI
Daily driver, autocross, and track days. Fun car and getting better with each improvement learned from RPR members.
#4
Posted 22 December 2011 - 07:04 PM
QUOTE (mtcrx @ Dec 22 2011, 05:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Very cool, thanks. I think I could try it now. Any special tools, besides pressing bearings off and on? And what parts need to be changed when in there: synchros, seals, bearings (just the two on the differential or are there more)? And I think these rebuild kits are readily available from transmission supply stores.
no special tools required... just have a bearing puller and pin punch to knock out the spring pins that hold the shift forks and other parts to the selector shafts.....
Assuming that the transmission is original or even rebuilt, it was originally made in the 80s.... So it would be best to replace ALL bearings and Seals if you already have the transmission open is a MUST, If you dont have synchro problems.... Inspect the countershaft parts for wear, check them with a Feeler guage if its within service limits it will be fine
i dont have all the seals and bearings so i cant do a full Rebuild just yet.... if you already have the shift forks and the counter shaft removed, then replacing the bearings and seals will be very simple...
Honda Civic/CRX Transmission Rebuild kit $189.00
1984-1987 HONDA CIVIC CRX PARTS FOR SALE 1/25/12
I drive with a Lead-foot for Two Reasons--> 1. i like to be out front of the idiots that dont know how to drive 2. i like to the hear the sound of my engine..
I drive with a Lead-foot for Two Reasons--> 1. i like to be out front of the idiots that dont know how to drive 2. i like to the hear the sound of my engine..
#5
Posted 22 December 2011 - 08:26 PM
QUOTE (bigboi407 @ Dec 22 2011, 07:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
wow, so thats litterally everything huh? It even says syncros as well yeah? Amazing link man. Awsome writeup. Very good job. This right here is why RPR is as great as it is for our cars. Guys like this one right here!!
#6
Posted 25 November 2012 - 09:49 AM
Hey guys, so I just pulled out my engine and want to rebuild the transmission because its grinding in 2nd (all the time) and in 3rd (sometimes), could someone tell me how hard the syncros are to replace? Would buying a rebuild kit for the tranny solve the grinding problem? THANKS GUYS!
My Project:http://www.redpepper...showtopic=54715