Sgt. Pepper, Listen to Chris_FDude, seeing that he owns one, or atleast owns a manual, he can help. Or try the battery cable Idea. Either way. If you can't get it rememdied, I suggest this. Go get your self some STP Diesel Fuel Treatment, ($5) Use one third the bottle on a new tank of gas, this should cause the light to go out.
0
Stepson's Sentra
Started by Sgt. Pepper, Apr 29 2007 10:25 PM
54 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 03 May 2007 - 01:35 PM
Honda, because it's hard to look baller in your mom's Volvo.
The entire tool selection at Sears or the contents of a Snap-On truck will do you no good if you do not know how to use them.
The entire tool selection at Sears or the contents of a Snap-On truck will do you no good if you do not know how to use them.
#17
Posted 03 May 2007 - 01:46 PM
QUOTE (ChrisF-dude @ May 2 2007, 10:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
On the 99 Sentra, the ECU is mounted to the floor just behind the center console. On one side of the ECU there is a little dial. Just turn the dial on the ECU and it resets the code. Then turn on the car and let it idle for a few minutes without touching anything that will affect engine operations, (ie; gas pedal, A/C, flux capacitor). I have a book somewhere here. I've done it before.
Okay, here's what I did. Took the plastic shroud off the ECM to gain access. Turned the mode selector clockwise...waited a few seconds and then turned it back counterclockwise (with the ignition turned on/not running). Started the car and the light was out....for almost a minute, but came back on. I did this process twice just to be sure...same results. Scanner still shows the same P1320 code.
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#18
Posted 03 May 2007 - 01:57 PM
Try it again, allow a longer time before you start the car
Honda, because it's hard to look baller in your mom's Volvo.
The entire tool selection at Sears or the contents of a Snap-On truck will do you no good if you do not know how to use them.
The entire tool selection at Sears or the contents of a Snap-On truck will do you no good if you do not know how to use them.
#19
Posted 03 May 2007 - 02:40 PM
I dont know that much about Nissan's, but I asked my Nissan buddy and he says usually that code is due to ignition coil pack. Its a very famous code for 95-99 Nissan maxima's and Altima's.. But who knows..
Try doing a yahoo search on the code You may find great answers..
Try doing a yahoo search on the code You may find great answers..
#20
Posted 03 May 2007 - 03:10 PM
Light is out! I tried a few different things (not sure which one worked), but the light is out. We'll see if it stays out.
Thanks everyone.
Thanks everyone.
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#21
Posted 03 May 2007 - 09:24 PM
QUOTE (RARECRX @ May 3 2007, 03:40 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I dont know that much about Nissan's, but I asked my Nissan buddy and he says usually that code is due to ignition coil pack. Its a very famous code for 95-99 Nissan maxima's and Altima's.. But who knows..
Try doing a yahoo search on the code You may find great answers..
Try doing a yahoo search on the code You may find great answers..
Sentras are archaic beasts. They use a distribulator, not coil pack like 21s century cars.
Hey Sarge, where did you find the 1320 code in the Haynes manual? On the 95 models, the codes go #11 to 128. And 0101 to 1308. Also have him check out NissanForums.com. Pretty decent general site. Okay, you also have to turn the dial on the ECU and hold for 2 seconds while the ignition is on. Glad it worked out okay though. BTW, the Sentra front brakes suck. When it is time to do the front brakes, swap up to loaded 1993 Nissan NX2000 ABS brake calipers, pads and rotors. All you have to do is trim the dust shield a little to clear the larger caliper, and bleed the lines. Good upgrade when the time comes.
Once a woman is introduced to Colonel Angus, she'll settle for nothing less.
#22
Posted 03 May 2007 - 09:33 PM
QUOTE (ChrisF-dude @ May 3 2007, 10:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Sentras are archaic beasts. They use a distribulator, not coil pack like 21s century cars.
Hey Sarge, where did you find the 1320 code in the Haynes manual? On the 95 models, the codes go #11 to 128. And 0101 to 1308. Also have him check out NissanForums.com. Pretty decent general site. Okay, you also have to turn the dial on the ECU and hold for 2 seconds while the ignition is on. Glad it worked out okay though. BTW, the Sentra front brakes suck. When it is time to do the front brakes, swap up to loaded 1993 Nissan NX2000 ABS brake calipers, pads and rotors. All you have to do is trim the dust shield a little to clear the larger caliper, and bleed the lines. Good upgrade when the time comes.
Hey Sarge, where did you find the 1320 code in the Haynes manual? On the 95 models, the codes go #11 to 128. And 0101 to 1308. Also have him check out NissanForums.com. Pretty decent general site. Okay, you also have to turn the dial on the ECU and hold for 2 seconds while the ignition is on. Glad it worked out okay though. BTW, the Sentra front brakes suck. When it is time to do the front brakes, swap up to loaded 1993 Nissan NX2000 ABS brake calipers, pads and rotors. All you have to do is trim the dust shield a little to clear the larger caliper, and bleed the lines. Good upgrade when the time comes.
Got the 1320 code off the internet, before I had the manual.
Haynes manual...$19.99
Distributor...$159.00
Not having to go to the dealer...priceless
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#23
Posted 03 May 2007 - 10:14 PM
QUOTE (Sgt. Pepper @ May 3 2007, 10:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Haynes manual...$19.99
Distributor...$159.00
Not having to go to the dealer...priceless
Distributor...$159.00
Not having to go to the dealer...priceless
Thats awesome!
Suck my SOHC!
Im the VTAC sauze on your Honda Burger!
#24
Posted 15 November 2007 - 08:56 PM
New problem - Kid went to school the other morning (it was cold) and didn't let it warm up (even though he's been told). Car started, but died when he k-turned in the street. Now it won't start, turns over but no start. Battery is good, just replaced the dist. and wires. I'm thinkin' starter? But why would it have started in the first place if it was that? Any thoughts?
Sarge
Sarge
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#25
Posted 15 November 2007 - 10:09 PM
Have you checked the ground wire?
Edited by Aaron, 15 November 2007 - 10:10 PM.
Daily - 84' Honda CRX dx........ Its just a Single cam......... no really, it really is
#26
Posted 15 November 2007 - 10:52 PM
QUOTE (Aaron @ Nov 15 2007, 10:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Have you checked the ground wire?
Nope, it's been raining the past two days. I'll take a better look tomorrow (if it stops raining). I did check the battery and belts and that he actually had gas in the tank.
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#27
Posted 15 November 2007 - 11:33 PM
Is there a driver's seat ignition switch? That little gizmo that won't let you turn the car on unless someone is sitting in the driver's seat?
#28
Posted 08 January 2009 - 06:48 PM
Well I replaced the distributor twice now and it seemed to run okay....until this week. It is throwing the 1320 code again and shutting off without warning. I replaced the spark plugs yesterday, but it still quits. What are the odds the distributor is bad again? What else could it be?
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#29
Posted 09 January 2009 - 12:28 AM
Sounds like its a circuitry problem, not parts problem. Im assuming this CAS is a 2 wire sensor. Do some tests with a multimeter, continuity, voltage drop, resistance. See what you get.
86 crx
#30
Posted 09 January 2009 - 12:42 AM
Well, I know nothing about Nissan's other than how to change the slave module for the clutch fluid, so I don't know if this is applicable, but:
I would lean towards the ignition contol module, if it has one.
Saw the same type of problems on several chrysler cars when it went.
I would lean towards the ignition contol module, if it has one.
Saw the same type of problems on several chrysler cars when it went.
QUOTE (Sinic @ Apr 21 2010, 09:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
You really know you have made it far on rpr when someone quotes you in their signature. I can't wait for the day!