9 replies to this topic

[JoelEspinoza]

I posted this in the general section, I figured it might be a good idea to post it in a technical forum as well.

This guy covers the dizzy wiring pretty well. you also have to add 2 wires for the iacv. http://www.geocities...tec/crxswap.htm

So anyway heres what i remember, im pretty sure this is all of it.


One stud dosnt line up-its something like 1/4" off. i heated up the stud (as little as possible)and put a 1/4" dog leg in it. ground a tad out of the headgasket, swung the stud around to the right angle, then ground out a spot at the bottom of the hole for where the stud angled over in the head with a die grinder. i also had to cut down the seat the nut mounts against because for some reason tht seat is higher than all the rest in the head in an a6. that could be avoided by getting a longer stud. I only tightend that nut down to 30ft/lbs. it seems to work fine so far.


Different number of teeth on pully-switch 40 tooth cam pully off the ew4 head onto the a6 head.


Belt of 104 teeth dosnt exit?- I figured out the magic number with my combo would be about 103-104 teeth. anyway after about an hour at pep boys counting teeth i decided i was tired of looking for one. there was one of a mid 90's civic cx that was 106 (i think). i went to the hardware store and found a piece of pipe that fit around the the ilder pully that was fairly thick walled went home and tack welded it to the idler pully. walla ohh wait the pully was so big now it hit one of the water pump bolts. find a flush mount bolt of the same thread, problem solved.


the belt dosnt track right-the belt wanted to run into the head so i shimmed out the crank pull and the alternator pully close to 1/8"


ohh i didnt use any dowel pins on this. I am not sure if they line up or not. honestly i was too lazy to check.

If you wanted to get fancy you could bore the block and put in zc pistons and a vtec head (piston pin to deck height the same on ew4 and zc pistons?). if you do so i would definately clay the piston to valve reliefs.

EDIT: If anyone lives within driving distance of tacoma, washington i will be happy to give rides. Also i am planning on putting it up for sale for 3k, after fixing a few cosmetic things.

Edited by JoelEspinoza, 26 October 2005 - 01:11 PM.

[JoelEspinoza]

What i think is funny about this board is i bet i would have got more responses if i had done a how to on switching seats or headlights =)

Edited by JoelEspinoza, 26 November 2005 - 05:13 PM.

[redsautorehab]

here's your first response

i hope it works out for you, this is something that i would never try though. there will more than likely be a chance of blowing a head gasket due to the low torque on that 1 stud, however increasing the torque on that stud is inadvisable, due to strenght and grain texture being modified

i would recommend a low-temp, high-flow thermostat, if they are available, and possibly adding a bigger cooling fan, to reduce the risk of blowing h/g

have you recorded any times, or dyno'd it since this conversion?

[B@T "El Argentino"]

That conversion is calling vtec, I want vtec on my d15a3!!, it would be nice if you dyno it, or go to the 1/4 mile to see the gain, if any or looses .

[B@T "El Argentino"]

Also, are you using a custom exhaust header? does the stock one work fine?

[JEFFtheJ00la]

well congrats, im glad it worked. nice to see someone do something different. im sorry you got pissy because noone said anything. just be glad people diddnt respond saying negative things. personally i would never do what you did, but your not me.

[savestheday]

Yeah, that stud modification is not a good idea. Good luck with it though.

[PuddleSkipper]

Came across this.................very interesting Wonder if there is enough meat in the block itself to machine a new hole for the stud that's 1/4" off instead of using a dog leg?

[Dirtcircle86]

What i think is funny about this board is i bet i would have got more responses if i had done a how to on switching seats or headlights =)

 

BWAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!  Still true nearly nine years later!  You could add floor mats, Mugen emblems, and cargo covers to the list.... 

 

I appologize.  Puddle Skipper, I have read another thread similar (very old, on here) where someone tried to fill that hole in the block with an epoxy and re-drill/tap for the newer head.  I don't recall how it turned out but I doubt well. 

[PuddleSkipper]

I'm talking take it to a machine shop, not the shade tree mechanic try and make it work. Stuff like that reminds me of when I went to the junkyard and I saw an EF that had an MPFI swap. None of the wiring was soldered, just twisted together and they may have used duct tape to cover it. It had garden hose for some of the heater hoses!   It was there because it had a fire that started in the engine harness