Red Pepper Racing

Okay, just a little update... I auto crossed this set up for the first time this weekend and this is what happend: at -1.5 camber in the front the car would under steer around turns so I bumped it up to -3.0 front camber and the car would then start to snap over steer really bad I was pretty sad because it felt wicked sticky on the street, I contuined to play with camber but it was either understeer to a point and then right to snapy over steer.

now luckly for me a man named Chris D. was there, hes an old member here; he used to run a EP crx and won nationals with it anyway he has a differnt car now, but he recommend I weld my rear torsion bar...

So that night I went home, pulled the rear sway bar, pulled my rear torsion bar, and instlled the rear axle lock that I made 6 years ago. took it back sunday and had -1.0 negitive camber and wow the car was super neutral it felt awesome no more under steer, no more over steet just point and shoot it would rotate when I needed it with a bit of help from the brakes and if I had a lsd I would say it would be perfect.

I know the axle lock is looked down upon... but it really seemed to work for me.

in other news I was pretty much the slowest car there... but it didnt help that I suck at driving... the car felt good tho

This is a budget autocrosser still less than $500 in whole car, but its fun until the track car is done.
HF car with DX engine/SI trans

Integra torsion bars
Integra front sway bar
Integra rear springs cut 2 coils
Homemade boxed and adjustable panhard bar
Poly bushings
Used suspension techniques sway bars front/rear
KYB struts/shocks
Yokohama A032 215/50R13 on ATS rims

Works pretty good. A little tail happy, might try it without the rear sway bar or use a DX beam with factory sway bar. Should be very competitve after SI engine swap. I know the back's still a little high in the air, but I want to be able to raise front to drive in the winter.

You have summed up the secret to getting this chassis to handle great. Maybe we should pin this post so everyone can read and learn.

Understeer is fixed at the back of the car. Welding the rear "sway bar" inside the axle, adding a plate to immobilize the rear torsion bar (stock sway bar) or adding the largest rear sway bar you can find dials out most of the udersteer in this chassis.

The next step is to stiffen the chassis as best as possible. A front strut brace is a good start but I would HIGHLY recommend a B pillar brace and a set of fender braces.

Scott

STOCK wago-bars indexed 2 splines
Teg rear axle with disc brakes
Stock wago-springs
Teg front discs
wago LCAs
195-60-15s
on scion 15" steelies
and GR2s front and back.

NO travel what so ever, no bumpstops.
Its gonna ride like $h!T and F**k some $h!T up lol

Except you can overdo it.
31mm torsion bar, 20mm front antiroll bar; 600 lb rear springs and 19 chromoly tube rear antiroll bar, with the oem antiroll bar removed; with Rspec tires gives quite a lot of oversteer. I'm going back to 14mm rear antiroll bar as even a 16mm one is too much.

Re the snap oversteer, make sure the bushes on the antiroll bar are not binding. Grease them well and often. They can bind, load up, and the suddenly release which will kick the rear out very suddenly.

Yes...
In addition, the OEM trailing arms, front & rear, also have quite a bit of bind and can cause similar issues. The K'box got so much more controllable at the limit after converting to spherical bearing rear arms...and the ride improved noticably

The front tbar pivots are going spherical this winter...thx David!

J.

hey Kayster lol aka kakabox the conversion your talking about is that of the mugen Rep arms?

Yessire... http://www.redpepper...e...st&p=422267

So whats your paypal so u can get myself a set of those BEAUTIES lol

Im dead serious, I will attempt to replicate urs so I can have myself a pair.

HUH? You're still sitting on those?

I figured you would have put them in before your AX season started up this year.

Jay
Who sure could use another set of those things.

I got the kit too late and didn't want to rush the instl. I got lazy too as the car was all together and ready to go...I didn't want to take it apart at the beginning of the season.

However, I'm working on the install now: I'm getting the radiator core support ready to weld on the traction bar brackets. I should finish this winter (I'm also remodeling our master bath, so, I'm fully 'booked').

Did you run David's spherical tbar pivots this year? If so, how'd they do?

J.