13 replies to this topic

[Andy69]

Not sure what to do here.  Broke the hub (see the catastrophic failure thread).  I need to pull the spindle nut off to get everything off for repair.

 

Problem - I can't use the weight of the car to hold the hub because the hub flange is completely separated from the hub.  If I try to loosen it with the trans in gear it turns the engine over.  I put a pipe wrench on the part of the hub that sticks out but it won't hold.  I tried putting the pipe wrench on the axle and I broke the jaw on the wrench.

 

Sooooo, the FSM makes no mention of it being a left hand nut so I assume righty tighty lefty loosey applies here.

 

And yes I did bend out the little indentation on the nut first.

[3rd gen sinner]

Impact would be best. Could always pull the hub and axle together, place in a vise and try it that way.


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[Andy69]

I guess maybe my best option might be to replace the spindle and axle as one unit.

 

My impact isn't strong enough. 

Edited by Andy69, 07 September 2014 - 09:03 PM.

[EuphoricBlue]

Put trans in reverse so engine has the most leverage it can, and wedge a 1/2" drive breker bar on the crank pulley bolt to hold the engine from turning over.

Then you should be able to use a 3/4 wrench with a lever bar to bereak the thing loose.

[rollz87civic]

Use heat of some kinda.

[Andy69]

ah, cool, I'll try that.

 

I figure, the transmission is already broken, so breaking it more won't hurt it :-)

[icebox187]

air chisel is always an option. I had some that I couldn't get off on my car (broke 2 1/2" breaker bars and 1 1/2" craftsman ratchet trying) ended up buying harbor freight 3/4 impact for about $90  http://www.harborfre...ench-66984.html and it got both of them off. I've also used this thing on all the medium sized diesel trucks at work. Hasn't disappointed me yet. Just don't tighten anything with it!

[E-Man]

I'm more old school and use a breaker bar with a length of pipe for better leverage.

Elliot

[Andy69]

that's how I broke my pipe wrench.

 

I've never broken a pipe wrench before.

 

I had my jack handle on my 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar, and the pipe wrench on the axle.  Tried the pipe wrench on the remains of the hub but there wasn't enough material there to get a good grip.

 

I'm thinking I just need to pull the axle out with it.

[rallyxcrx]

Get the longest harbor freight breaker bar and put it in high gear, if this doesn't break the transmission, it will come off, Dave.  I thought about this today, putting the tranny in a higher gear only works for removing the front pulley nut.

Edited by rallyxcrx, 08 September 2014 - 09:01 PM.

[Andy69]

I got it off.  Shew that was painful.

 

Two bent and one broken cold chisel (including two I've had for almost 30 years and have beaten the crap out of many times), one bent breaker bar and one broken pipe wrench.  Used a cut off wheel to cut off one of the points then wailed on it with a cold chisel and a 6 lb hammer until it split.  Too tired to get the rest of it apart tonight.

[Aren D.]

Sound like what I had to do once, I think I used a dremal and cut the nut down until I could split it with a chisel. Not fun.

[PuddleSkipper]

I smoked an electric impact gun on one of these as well, got it off, but the gun was done for. It was put on by another impact at a shop and since mine went up to 240 lbs I'm guessing that there's was at least that much torque on them or slightly more. They only need to be torqued to 134 lbs so I always hand torque them so I don't run into this problem again.

[anjin]

Best solution I have found is to run a stiff bit of steel about 2 foot long between two of the opposing wheel studs. Tube and square section works, and as I have pretzeled crowbars I don't use them anymore as they are too soft.  Can be useful to leave nuts on to protect the stud thread. Support the long end of the steel on a stand, bricks etc so its about horizontal, and have about an inch prtruding past the stud at the other end. 

 

Strong breaker bar (I use a kinchrome with a decent enclosed head configuration) and six foot or so of pipe over that.   You work against the steel bar in the wheel nuts so you are puhing the hub down. It's worthwhile supporting the hub as well to minimise the hub lifting or dropping under the pressure. Don't use an extension from the breaker bar to the socket - you will probably twist it.

 

I have been known to jump up and down on the length of pipe.  That, with 5-10 minutes heat from a paint stripper gun set on high when jumping didn't work the first time, has worked for me every time.

 

Of coure, with this particular catastrophic failuure, there are no studs to use. Could howeevr use the brake calipher attachement points in some way.