6 replies to this topic

[86redboxSi]

Hey 3rd gen guys, I read the FAQ and got a little lost. Right now I have the Teg calipers, rotors and pads. My Brake booster is failing (Pedal slowly sinks to floor) and I think my master may be failing as well as pedal travel is pretty far before the brakes do anything. The pedal moves about 1.25 inches before doing much. But when it engages it engages well. Master and booster are both stock to the Si civic. The master is new, but I think it might be a bad seal? Not sure. 

 

Anyway, I want to keep my rear aluminum drums, but the master and booster to match the Teg calipers.

 

From what I read, I need a Booster off an 87 Prelude? Si or Carbed? And this will allow the booster to fit to the Civic firewall but mount the Teg master?

 

Apologies if this is answered already but I swear I read the FAQ and about 4-5 other threads.

[rexsk8er]

If your pedal goes down it's not the booster, the pedal will get really hard upon a faulty booster. Could be a leak, Those are common to leak at rear wheel cylinders. Or a faulty master. The teg master will work but may lead to too firm of a pedal because you don't have disc in rear. Master cyldiner from a 80s prelude with accompanied proportioning valve should be the best bet (disc front drum rear)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GeezRX]

I have an '86 3G Si which has a big brake upgrade on the front and stock drum setup on the rear. I am using the stock booster and proportioning valve but upgraded to the '85 Prelude (carb'd) master cylinder with plans to upgrade to rear discs in the future. Brakes work fine with this setup for normal street/highway use.

[rexsk8er]

If your pedal goes down it's not the booster, the pedal will get really hard upon a faulty booster. Could be a leak, Those are common to leak at rear wheel cylinders. Or a faulty master. The teg master will work but may lead to too firm of a pedal because you don't have disc in rear. Master cyldiner from a 80s prelude with accompanied proportioning valve should be the best bet (disc front drum rear)

Also the only car worth aluminum drums was the hf if I remember right. I swapped in discs in the rear on mine, (don't wanna hear it Scott)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sinub]

If you're buying any calipers or master cylinders, DO NOT buy remanufactured parts. They tend to have seals that go bad, incorrect tolerances(if they have been remachined) and just tend to go bad pretty quickly overall.

[86redboxSi]

If you're buying any calipers or master cylinders, DO NOT buy remanufactured parts. They tend to have seals that go bad, incorrect tolerances(if they have been remachined) and just tend to go bad pretty quickly overall.

I bought all new. I never buy any re-maned brake parts as I just don't trust them. Unless there's no alternative. Also went with Raybestos and Centric, which have served me well in the past, but who knows...

 

You're probably right, it's a failed seal in the master. I want to get a new booster because the booster looks pretty original, and has had a faulty master in it before so the inside could be heavily contaminated with brake fluid. Not sure if that's very good for the diaphragm.

 

Now that I think of it, I'll have to double check if the drums are the aluminum ones, I thought I got some. I remember them being very light, for drums.

[86redboxSi]

Just an update:

 

The 85 Non-Si Prelude master cylinder fits perfectly. Now I have 1/2 the pedal travel and the brakes feel great. It too a little work, but I highly recommend the vacuum method of bleeding brakes. It lets one guy do the whole job. Assuming of course you don't brake the vacuum tool like I did half way through...

 

Now, while I have a firm pedal, I'm not able to'lock' the brakes up like I used to be able to. the car stops fine, but doesn't leave skid marks, nor does it pull left or right. That's normal yeah?