7 replies to this topic

[Xipher]

I am hoping the members here and help me with a few small little quirks with my 1984 CRX DX 1.5.

Problem number one: Windshield wiper speeds, mine only works on the fastest mode, I think I heard at one point that there is a separate fuse I need to check for this, if so, which fuse? If not, what could the problem be?

Problem number two: Air conditioning setting, much like the windshield wipers, but not quite. When the lever is set to fan speed off, there is a lot of air leaking from the vents as if it would be on setting 1 maybe? The only two settings that have an effect are mode 2, and 3, mode 1 does not seem to turn the fan on at all, and off doesn't seem to turn it off ether. Also, and this is really annoying in cold weather, the light will be on for the selected mode ( heat, hi/lo, ect ) but when the fan is switched on (mode 2-3) the lights go out, and the fan does not turn on, and the lights do not turn back on until the car has been shut off, and started again. This is an intermit tented problem, and seems to happen once or twice every two weeks.

That would cover the two main problems I have been having, but I do have a few other smaller problems though, which might be listed for a little attention later...

[duner]

well, as far as the wiper and fan switch go....you may have a dirty/corroded switch/relay which may be why "low" doesnt blow, hahaha. as far as the "off" position blowing, i think most pre90ish cars do that in order to keep fresh air flowing into the cabin.

i may be wrong that is my guess.

[MakDiesel]

The reason why "1" doesn't blow is because of a small resistor located behind the glove box. It has a few coils that correspond to each fan speed and the lowest setting is notorious for coping out first. Mine is currently not blowing on "1" either but I haven't had the time to replace or rig the resistor to remedy it. Check the online service manual (link at the top of this page) to get the exact location of the resistor. BTW, if you want less air flowing in, I usually put the recirculator switch on (far right on the button strip in my CRX) w/ no fan and that effectively closes the inlet underneath the cowl that lets in fresh air. Hope that helps. Mak

[xfurb]

The first question: windshield wipers- It’ either the wiper motor or the grease in the steering cluster; That little cluster contains fairly small spring loaded contacts. Honda did a great job of greasing up the mechanics; but after 20 years the grease has become a sticky goo that does not allow the spring to mate the contacts. If you’re really brave disassemble the cluster and clean out the offending grease with alcohol and add a good quality silicone dielectric grease. My head lights had this problem I would hit the high beams and the back to low beams the light would cut out all together and then back on after a delay -really sucked on the freeway. Did it more when it was cold, figured out that the switch was just sticky. Does the intermittent wiper position work?

The second question: blower motor- I agree with MakDiesel the fan speed control resister is burned out. With the fan off cold air is blowing in? Assuming your driving -this is normal- if you’re stopped that’s bad -maybe a bad switch.

Just a guess on the second part: Honda’s “climate control push button thingy” is all tiny electric switches and motors that operate the valves for heat/defrost/vent/etc. Worked great when it was new, but the mechanism that turns one switch off when another is depressed often fails and so does the control board located behind the climate control push buttons. I’ve seen a few that will cycle though vent position to heat position without a button physically being pushed. With the car off and the ignition switch on you can hear the valve freaking out opening and closing by itself. Best course of action on this is replacement of the switches and control board, but it could be a short in one of the wiring bundles, but not likely. I'm betting on the control board. 'bout 35 bucks for the whole shebang at a junk yard. Or 350 at Honda!

Sorry so long winded I have a tenancy of doing that. Hope this helps. Good luck.
~dan

[Xipher]

Thanks for all the replies

Looks like I’ll need to get brave real quick then on taking the cluster apart, because I've got the same problem you described with my headlights, lucky it only seems to happen in the driveway/ parking lots though. Intermittent does not work ether, the car becomes a bit of work when it’s only very lightly raining, and its my only car.

I will check today to see if the air is blowing while the car is not moving, but I am almost certain that is while off, and I will try to take a look through the online Honda manual today and give a look behind the glove box.

xfurb,

On that second part, this is very useful to me although I didn't post the specific problem. I thought I was crazy, the buttons in my car don't open/close any vents, I have no defrost in the morning ( oh, that, that's annoying ) and the only thing that blows is the dash vents no matter what button I pushed or light is lit. Perhaps I have a combination of a bad switch and board, it would not surprise me given the poor condition of the interior when I acquired the car.

[xfurb]

None of the buttons are working... Damn! That sucks! Even if you hold the button the in?

In regards to the climate control module.
I bought a junk yard replacement it worked fine for about a year then it started freaking out like the OE one, I found that if you push the button and hold it in it would work. Also figured out that one of those small black binder clips fit over the button assembly and hold the button in. ‘Cause it hard to drive with a cup of coffee in one hand a finger on the defrost button – while obeying all the traffic laws... yea right. I even tried disconnecting the power to the valve motor, located under the center dash driver side just over the heater core, whatever position you set via control buttons is locked in place. Great for just A/C in the summer. Another thing, you said the each button lights up when you push them? Do they stay lit? The two instances with my car the light would flicker with the valve operation. Acted like a poor electrical connection. If they stay lit then more than likely it’s the control module or the valve has been electrically disconnected. If they flicker the button assembly is most likely faulty.

Before you go and rip into the cluster check the wiper motor. I can’t remember but I think the intermittent wiper use the slow speed side of the motor. Ripping apart the cluster might be all for not. If it’s a bad motor.

~dan

[Xipher]

None of the buttons are working...  Damn!  That sucks!  Even if you hold the button the in?

In regards to the climate control module.
I bought a junk yard replacement it worked fine for about a year then it started freaking out like the OE one, I found that if you push the button and hold it in it would work.  Also figured out that one of those small black binder clips fit over the button assembly and hold the button in. ‘Cause it hard to drive with a cup of coffee in one hand a finger on the defrost button – while obeying all the traffic laws... yea right.  I even tried disconnecting the power to the valve motor, located under the center dash driver side just over the heater core, whatever position you set via control buttons is locked in place. Great for just A/C in the summer.  Another thing, you said the each button lights up when you push them? Do they stay lit?  The two instances with my car the light would flicker with the valve operation.  Acted like a poor electrical connection. If they stay lit then more than likely it’s the control module or the valve has been electrically disconnected.  If they flicker the button assembly is most likely faulty. 

Before you go and rip into the cluster check the wiper motor.  I can’t remember but I think the intermittent wiper use the slow speed side of the motor.  Ripping apart the cluster might be all for not. If it’s a bad motor. 

~dan

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I know! tomorrow morning I will try holding the buttons with a bit of pressure though.

How hard is it to replace the control panel for the vent system if it does happen to be the issue? I will try to test the motor tomorrow as well, getting a lot of things done with the car at once

Going along with things here, if I was to pick up another control panel...

I've got a cosmetic problem I think I could try to get fixed at the same time, if I can get a bit of help again A picture will be included below, besides the crack in the bumper, the small thin metal strip that runs under the brake lights, is this easy to replace, is it easy to pick one up in good condition? You can see that mine has seen better days thanks to the previous owner.

[xfurb]

Looks like only three nuts/bolts holding that upper rear skirt thing on. Being that it’s a Honda it will take 3 or 4 hours to remove the back half of the car to get to them. Just kidding! The dash, for the control panel, isn’t real bad. Pretty straight forward.
I love a good wrecking yard, good place to learn what not to do when removing parts. Every wrecker is different- some have good parts and fairly good cars others don’t - So to answer the last question I have to use the definitive Microsoft answer... Depends. Depends on the area for one.
Good luck on the part search!
~dan