21 replies to this topic

[Performance Freaks EG]

searched and couldnt find anything. look for some directions or a write up on changing the front struts, 87 si

[1stGenRex]

look somewhere in here

http://www.redpepper...Civ-fsm-chap20/

its really not hard at all bro....all you have to do is remove 4-5 bolts

[Madkore]

I find it is always easier to change the front struts if I wire them in a closed position. It can be a pain to compress them and remove them at the same time.

Put the car on jack stands and make sure it's secure.

Remove front wheels.

Leave the key in the ignition so you can rotate the front suspension from side to side. Makes it easier to get to things if you can move the brakes and hubs out of the way.

You may have to loosen the front sway bar if you have one. Just remove the end links.

You do have to break loose the ball joint. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut first. Then break the ball joint loose. A big hammer and a few whacks will usually work. Be careful, don't whack anything else. You want to hit the cast iron bracket that the ball joint slips into. A couple of good whacks, and the ball joint will just fall out of the bracket. You can use a big pry bar or screwdriver to pull down on the arm as you whack the ball joint if it is uncooperative.

Loosen the top strut bolts. Undo the brake line bracket. And remove the bottom bolt.

I slip a wire around the top of the shock and let the ends hang down. Make sure the wire is secure. I wrap it around the stud on the top of the strut.

Then I use the jack to raise the front suspension and compress the shock.

Tie the wire ends around the brake line bracket to keep the shock compressed.

Lower the jack and the strut will be easy to remove. Remove the bottom of the strut from the strut collar on the bottom. Then just remove the top nuts and the strut will fall out.

I also wire the new strut for installation in the same manner. Compress and wire it in the compressed position.

Install the strut, bolt everything back together, and then just cut the wire and remove the wire.

I know it sounds weird. But it works for me.

Edited by Madkore, 15 June 2006 - 04:18 PM.

[strudel]

There is no reason to have to remove the ball joint to remove the front strut. I have never had to do that. Once the car is supported there are only four nuts/bolts to remove.

1. Brake line hose bolt so that it is off the strut.
2. Remove the pinch bolt.
3. At this pont you wriggle the bottom of the strut loose in the nuckle. You may need to use some liquid remover stuff, pick your poison, and push down on the knuckle and the strut should come out of it's housing. You also have to push the strut up to compress it.
4. Take the two nuts off the top and lower the strut our.
Replacement is in reverse. Just make sure that when you put the pinch bolt back in that you get the tab in the slot before you torque it all up. JS

[Screech]

Did you get it done yet? If you get to Havelock some weekend I should be able to help you.

[1stGenRex]

There is no reason to have to remove the ball joint to remove the front strut. I have never had to do that. Once the car is supported there are only four nuts/bolts to remove.

1. Brake line hose bolt so that it is off the strut.
2. Remove the pinch bolt.
3. At this pont you wriggle the bottom of the strut loose in the nuckle. You may need to use some liquid remover stuff, pick your poison, and push down on the knuckle and the strut should come out of it's housing. You also have to push the strut up to compress it.
4. Take the two nuts off the top and lower the strut our.
Replacement is in reverse. Just make sure that when you put the pinch bolt back in that you get the tab in the slot before you torque it all up. JS

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

that was i was saying...you dont have to remove the balljoints at all!
this serves no purpouse...strudel explained it exactly how i do mone

[cal_gecko]

Strudel has it right. Very easy job with a jack and jackstands

[Screech]

It is a really easy job, with air tools it can be done in 15-20 minutes by an average mech. Only problem I've ever had is with the nut top of the strut being so frozen that I could not get it off, so I just grabbed the angle grinder and cut through at the base of the nut.

It is 4 bolts and 2 nuts (brake bracket's bolts, spindle's pinch bolts and the strut's top nuts).

[Madkore]

There is no reason to have to remove the ball joint to remove the front strut. I have never had to do that. Once the car is supported there are only four nuts/bolts to remove.

Yeah, my mistake.
You don't have to undo the ball joints.
My mind has been mush this week and I was thinking that I had to pull my front subframe to get to the bushings for my 21 millimeter Front Sway Bar.

Too many things on my mind right now and they all get mixed up.

One of my really good friends died a couple of months ago from an incurable brain disease. He was in his mid 40s, and no one realized he was that sick.

I bought my business last year from a nice little old Korean couple who were both in their 80s. They (John and Cathy) have been gracious enough to come in for a couple of hours a day to help me learn the business and familiarize me with the inventory.

John suddenly developed breathing problems and passed away two weeks ago while his wife Cathy was in Korea. She tried to fly back to be by his bedside, but unfortunately she arrived in Los Angeles about six hours after John died.

Cathy is simply devastated. They were married for 51 years, and worked together every day for 45 years. They still used to always hold hands when they would walk down the hall together. And their wedding anniversary is next month.

I have been calling Cathy every day to check on her, especially since several people have told me that when a couple is that close and one passes away, the other one passes soon afterwards.

Yesterday Cathy told me that "When John died, he took my heart, my love, and my life with him". She just sounded so sad and so small when she said that.

My mind was mush for the rest of the day. And that was right before I logged onto RPR because I needed something to cheer me up. I guess my brain wasn't functioning right when I tried to answer the question.

Anyways, you don't need to remove the ball joint.

And the great thing about RPR is there is always someone who will catch your mistakes and correct them.

Thanks guys.

Bill

[1stGenRex]

dude that really sucks....
I havent had anyone really close in my family pass, so i guess ive been really lucky. I just cant immagine what something like that would feel like....i immagine it would suck more than anything that has ever sucked b4....

and BTW, my crx has 2 swaybars in the front

[Madkore]

dude that really sucks....

Yeah, life sucks and then you die.

When Cathy said "When John died, he took my heart, my love, and my life with him." it just totally disoriented my brain.

It's just so sad......

They were such a wonderful couple, and two of the nicest, kindest people in the whole world.

On a lighter note, I was running both the Lightspeed Front Sway Bar, and the Mugen 21mm Front Sway Bar, together for a while.

The Mugen Bar mounts in the stock location, and the Lightspeed Bar mounted underneath.

I also have two sway bars in the back.

I have a Mugen 21 mm Internal Rear Sway Bar and the OPM Rear Sway Bar.
I may put the Lightspeed Rear Sway Bar back on when I finally get around to installing the coilovers.

Edited by Madkore, 16 June 2006 - 06:20 PM.

[1stGenRex]

life only sucks if thats how you want to think of it....


have you ever been shot at? I have, its sad to say, but it made me appreciate life more when i saw that happened to the guys that were shooting at us...

[LeDevil]

Off subject but I've been shot at and I've been hit!! I have a nice little scar on my lower right back from a bullit!!!

[1stGenRex]

Off subject but I've been shot at and I've been hit!! I have a nice little scar on my lower right back from a bullit!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

what size round?

[Kanyooheermi]

GOod insentive to start Living and Loving to the fullest.