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After refreshing the front suspension , replacing the rusted sunroof with a Heel-Toe FG jobby, and cleaning up the wheels and engine bay I finally got around to putting in the Addco rear sway bar last weekend.
Fairly easy job, took about 2 hours, made easier with a set of ramps (keeps the axle at close to normal ride height so fitment is accurate. Some weight in the trunk during the install wouldn't hurt either) and angle grinder.
I haven't found any photo-tutorial posts on a rear SB install so here it is.
The non-stock exhaust that came on my car made things tight for the passenger-side frame mount, but after ~200 miles no interference issues.
First install the bar "pillow blocks" - these are very firm and required locking the bar in a vice, spreading the blocks with a screwdriver and slipping over the end. Sounds easier than it is. Then a bunch of whacks with a dead-blow hammer to move them around the corner of the bar and into place. I brushed a thin coat of "Super lube" (clear stuff in a tube from Harbor Freight) on to the bar where the block would end up - about 1" from the 'corner' - before finally positioning them.
Then mark the axle at the center of the blocks, equidistant from each end of the axle.
Press the bushing-bracket completely over the 2 bushes (vise, clamp, hammer).
This is where a third hand would be nice: with the bar&bushes laying on top of the axle assemble the U-bolts around the bottom of the axle on the marks made earlier, through the flattened-U channel, flat bar, and finally the bushing bracket. Add washers and loosely screw on nuts.
Now it's time to locate the frame brackets. Due to the non-OEM exhaust hanger the bracket on the passenger side is slightly different than the driver's on mine. Shouldn't be a big deal, but I had to drill 2 holes on the pass side while I could use the existing (slightly oversized with a raised lip I ground flush) hole on the driver's side for one side of the upper U-bolt.
Assemble the vertical bushing-rod inside it's bracket, position the sway bar (will be TIGHT to move), and mark the location of the holes you'll need to drill. I used a spring loaded center punch, and scratched an X. Starting with a smaller bit, drill the 3 (or 4) holes into the frame. Use the upper U-bolt to chose a bit - just slightly larger is necessary to allow snaking the bolt through the frame.
Shoot the exposed metal in the holes with some pain that will surely chip off and allow rust anyway and have dinner.
Come back, snake the upper U-bolts through frame, lube the round bushes (I used never-seize, we'll see how long it takes to start squeaking), install in correct order, and tighten up the bolts while making sure none are pinched/crooked.
Take her down and out for a spin.
The 2 axles bushes WILL be very tight/stiff at first. There's a worrying amount of 'stiction' at first, but after a few days and drives mine have quieted down and greatly smoothed out . After about a week and ~200 miles there still seems to be more 'bounciness', but the lack of roll in curves is dramatic. First 270 degree off-ramp I took made me smile like loon.
Even with my stock-sized, all weather tires and basically stock suspension I can't wait to take her autocrossing in 2 weeks.
Nice thing is the mod is easily reversible back to stock should you ever want to do it.
Now I just have to diagnose a pesky CEL/ECU error (a bit rough until around 3500rpms, then full power) and she'll be just about perfect.
Anyone have a good, cheap '86Si ECU for sale????
cheers!
Kurt
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