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View GaragePictures can be found here: http://imgur.com/a/VMBTZ They show the good, the bad, and the ugly, but not all the extras.
B20B engine, resleeved by Golden Eagle and over bored to 85mm. JE Pistons, Crower connecting rods, B17 crankshaft. Engine has a 1.75 rod/stroke ratio and about a 10:1 compression ratio. Rotating assembly balanced, too. Oil dipstick tube isn’t exactly fitted to the block but it won’t go anywhere.
B18C5 cylinder head, Crower Stage 2 cams, adjustable cam gears, I think they’re standard sized Crower valves, titanium retainers, headwork by Joe Alaniz many, many years ago. Some kind of intake manifold (allegedly a Skunk2 I got from eBay but there are no identifying marks on it), stock (for the cylinder head) exhaust manifold.
Electronics are all electronic advance OBD0. VTEC doesn’t quite work, but I think it’s just because I never got the engine computer tuned correctly enough for it. I can give you the contact information of my friend (for those who don’t know TheAcidBeaver) who has helped me along with this project and is familiar with the car and it’s tune. It runs and drives, but it definitely needs a finer tune to reach its potential.
Transmission is an A1 transmission, I do not believe it has an LSD. There is a Clutchmasters lightweight aluminum flywheel and stage 3 clutch in there as well. Axles by Raxles, who else?
I always said that I expected to get some 200+HP out of the car. The times I have driven this, it’s been an abso-effing-lute BLAST. This car knows how to boogie.
Exhaust system consists of a high flow catalytic converter and Moroso Spiralflow taking the place of a resonator and a Thermal R&D muffler. 2.5” the whole way through. Did much of the work myself… which means it is not pretty but it is functional.
Suspension. Front torsion bars if I recall correctly are 23mm, adjustable coil overs in the rear (I believe they were 200lb springs? Maybe 250?) with Tokico Illuminas all around. There’s also an adjustable panhard rod and a Jackson Racing sway bar in the rear. The front does not have a sway bar on it right now, however I do have the Jackson Racing front sway bar to match the rear. (Previously this said Mugen, I apologize for misinformation!)
Brakes & wheels: Old school Fastbrakes 15” fronts with 1995 Civic calipers. Rears are 1987 Integra disc brake conversion, using 1990-91 CRX emergency brake cables. Simple standard Honda 15” steelies with Sumitomo HTR4 tires. The fronts also have H&R wheel spacers and longer lug studs to work with the Fastbrakes kit. Stainless steel lines all around.
The body is the roughest part of the car, though it has some good points. The rust is the biggest problem, mainly by the front jack points. Nothing structural as far as I can see, but still in need of work. I did some pretty lousy stopgap welding on the front to get the front fenders on.
The hood is a one piece carbon fiber hood from a Red Pepper Racing group buy. Obviously, by the pictures you can see I started putting on the Houseman Mugen body kit, front and rear fenders. I already had another body kit for the side skirts and bumpers, and I was going to use them. A good body shop (or someone knowledgable in bodywork) can make it all work well together. The CRX center panel on the rear has one of the four bolts cracked, but nothing I don’t think some gorilla glue couldn’t fix. The garnish around the windshield wipers is gone, that might be tough to replace, but not impossible. The wipers don’t want to work right now for some reason. Not totally sure why. Also, the car is wired up and has a stock switch for the fog lights, which I do have for the car as well.
Inside, the driver seat is an adjustable (faded) black cloth Recaro Sparco and the passenger side is from a European CRX. Unfortunately, I bought a European ‘passenger’ seat, which would be a US driver side seat, so the handle is kind of a pain to get to. Steering wheel is also an EDM CRX steering wheel, and the gauge cluster is as well. The rear carpeting is long gone, as is the cargo box. Always meant to replace it with something nice.
Audio-wise, there is an eclipse head unit and mostly-working amplifier. 3 of the 4 speakers work, and they still sound pretty nice. The battery has been relocated to behind the passenger seat, and is mounted to a nice thick steel plate welded to the car. It’s not going anywhere. It’s also all of about a half year old. Also, there is an automatic retracting antenna for the radio. Just needs some WD40 ever now and then to keep it nice and lubed up.
Not in those pictures is the center console garnish or the dashboard storage box, both of which I do have. Although the cables look pretty ugly, I can guarantee that they do all fit underneath the carpeting.
Ideally, I would like to sell this car in its entirety, so that someone can finish what I sadly could not. If you are buying the car whole, I will also throw in a brand new headliner, brand new A pillar trim, and a brand new front carpet. All factory direct Honda goodies, probably rare as all hell. If you are buying the car to strip out the engine, it breaks my heart but I understand. I will be taking some of the bits and pieces with me on sale/delivery so I can have a little memento of my Silverbolt and maybe recoup some of my losses on it.
Also, the registration on the car is up in mid-June, so I need the car sold by then. More than enough time to get a deal done.
Talking turkey, I’d love to get $3000-$4000 for it. I’ve sunk more money than that into the engine alone. But I know I probably won’t get that. Best offer (with preference going to someone who honestly tells me they will complete the car) wins, but please, don’t lowball a sad man selling his old dreams. You can get a hold of me through my email [email protected] Thanks very much everyone.
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