My stepkid has a '99 Nissan Sentra with a 1.6l engine and auto that is throwing a P1320 code which is an "ignition signal", we changed spark plugs and rotor. What else can we check/change besides the wires and cap? It seems to run and idle fine, but shuts off without warning. I does re-start again without any trouble. I know, I know it's not a Honda. Just need some other ideas to try and solve this problem. Thanks!
0
Stepson's Sentra
Started by Sgt. Pepper, Apr 29 2007 10:25 PM
54 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 29 April 2007 - 10:25 PM
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#2
Posted 29 April 2007 - 11:32 PM
ignition signal sounds like the Ignition Control Modual or one of the senors in the distrubitor.
#3
Posted 30 April 2007 - 12:00 AM
Hall Sender unit maybe...? Makes sense to me!
Full of The Internets!
etmydst - ""...and since he was the hardest gangster in all of stockton they were to scared to go in his house so they drove by and said "slow down forest"..."
My Vouch Thread
etmydst - ""...and since he was the hardest gangster in all of stockton they were to scared to go in his house so they drove by and said "slow down forest"..."
My Vouch Thread
#4
Posted 01 May 2007 - 03:09 AM
Crank angle sensor needs replacing. CAS is in the distrbutor which means I need to replace the dist. Found a new one on ebay for $159.00/free shipping (with lifetime warranty). This should fix the problem. I'll let you know...
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#5
Posted 02 May 2007 - 02:49 PM
Ordered a new distributor yesterday off ebay and it arrived TODAY! I installed it and it idles great. Check engine light is STILL on, but I expected that. I heard they have to be reset to get rid off them, any truth in that? How do I do it? Don't tell me I have to go to the Nissan dealer?!
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#6
Posted 02 May 2007 - 03:02 PM
Just barrow and OBD-II scan tool from AutoZone or AdvanceAuto. I had to have AutoZone reset the Accord to get teh light to go out and to clear the code after a bad tank of gas messed with the Cat. Was free, though the guy didn't really want to since I didn't buy any parts from him.
Screech
------------------------
16 Ford RS (2.3l, DS)
84 Civic 2000S (B20Z2 2.0l, SMF)
#7
Posted 02 May 2007 - 03:12 PM
QUOTE (Sgt. Pepper @ May 2 2007, 02:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Ordered a new distributor yesterday off ebay and it arrived TODAY! I installed it and it idles great. Check engine light is STILL on, but I expected that. I heard they have to be reset to get rid off them, any truth in that? How do I do it? Don't tell me I have to go to the Nissan dealer?!
You can buy an OBD-II scan tool and "CEL resetter" for less than $100, I bought mine for considerably more But I have used It MANY TIMES and charge people $10 to use mine LOL.. They do come in handy..
#8
Posted 02 May 2007 - 09:02 PM
On the 99 Sentra, the ECU is mounted to the floor just behind the center console. On one side of the ECU there is a little dial. Just turn the dial on the ECU and it resets the code. Then turn on the car and let it idle for a few minutes without touching anything that will affect engine operations, (ie; gas pedal, A/C, flux capacitor). I have a book somewhere here. I've done it before.
Once a woman is introduced to Colonel Angus, she'll settle for nothing less.
#9
Posted 03 May 2007 - 01:05 PM
Thanks Chris, I did just that and the light went out.......................for a minute. It came back on and is throwing the same P1320 code (ignition signal). WTF do I check/change next? So far I have done:
New plugs
New distributor/cap/rotor
Wires "look" almost new, but I am not against changing them. Any other ideas?
New plugs
New distributor/cap/rotor
Wires "look" almost new, but I am not against changing them. Any other ideas?
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman
#10
Posted 03 May 2007 - 01:15 PM
Harbour Freight has the OBD II scanners on sale now for $30.
I warn you though: my brand new DA sander from there just took a shit. I hate that place.
I warn you though: my brand new DA sander from there just took a shit. I hate that place.
Going to Hawaii? You need a Dune Buggy.
WTB: 14x8 or 9" Panasports or Watanabe RS.
WTB: 3g Civic hatch gauge cowl, brown.
WTB: ZC header--FOUND
#11
Posted 03 May 2007 - 01:19 PM
Another way to clear the code (which I have done s few time on my mom's '98 Plymouth Breeze and my gf's '97 Dodge Neon) is to disconect the negitive battery terminal for atleast 30 minutes. Remember, this is just to "reset" the ECU or ECM (which ever you want to call it).
Suck my SOHC!
Im the VTAC sauze on your Honda Burger!
#12
Posted 03 May 2007 - 01:26 PM
QUOTE (RFL85CRXSI @ May 3 2007, 02:19 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Another way to clear the code (which I have done s few time on my mom's '98 Plymouth Breeze and my gf's '97 Dodge Neon) is to disconect the negitive battery terminal for atleast 30 minutes. Remember, this is just to "reset" the ECU or ECM (which ever you want to call it).
That won't work in some cars like the Ford Ranger because the ECU has internal memory that lasts if the battery power goes down.
Going to Hawaii? You need a Dune Buggy.
WTB: 14x8 or 9" Panasports or Watanabe RS.
WTB: 3g Civic hatch gauge cowl, brown.
WTB: ZC header--FOUND
#13
Posted 03 May 2007 - 01:29 PM
QUOTE (Omega Mugen @ May 3 2007, 01:15 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Harbour Freight has the OBD II scanners on sale now for $30.
Its a scanner, not a reset tool.
Honda, because it's hard to look baller in your mom's Volvo.
The entire tool selection at Sears or the contents of a Snap-On truck will do you no good if you do not know how to use them.
The entire tool selection at Sears or the contents of a Snap-On truck will do you no good if you do not know how to use them.
#14
Posted 03 May 2007 - 01:32 PM
QUOTE (badpenny @ May 3 2007, 02:29 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Its a scanner, not a reset tool.
The OBD scanners should reset the codes also. Unless that is some F-ed up scanner, which is a real possibility if you buy from Harbour Freight.
Going to Hawaii? You need a Dune Buggy.
WTB: 14x8 or 9" Panasports or Watanabe RS.
WTB: 3g Civic hatch gauge cowl, brown.
WTB: ZC header--FOUND
#15
Posted 03 May 2007 - 01:33 PM
I did the "resset thing" as per Chris (and the Haynes manual) twice. Light came back on and I am wondering if the problem may be something else? What else is involved with the ignition that I can check/change? I probably will pick up an OBDII scanner, but for now I want to get this code fixed/cleared without going to the dealer.
Adding power makes you faster in the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere. - Colin Chapman