16 replies to this topic

[B18rex]

This is what I'm thinking:

dohc D16
Forged rods and pistons
compression of 9:1
DSM 450cc injectors
adjustable FPR
Equal length manifold
Garret T3 Super 60 - should be good for a very efficient 15-18psi

I might be thinking about Mega Squirt in the future.

Hoping for at least 200whp on this setup. Do you think this is achievable?

Here's another very technical question. I'm wanting to raise my rod ratio, so I can wrap the hell out of this engine. Does someone make a deck plate for the D16 dohc?

[krustindumm]

I'd go bigget than 450's and maybe just a OBD0 conversion and run turbo edit. i've never seen any deckplates, but you would need custom rods anyway, so why not custom pistons with a lower compression hight? 1.6:1 is ideal, and IDK that you are very far off.

Should be able to see more than 200whp (maybe close to 300) with that setup.

-Dustin

[gtcali]

You get 200whp with 10psi

[rexsk8er]

thats what i want to do, but run two super small turbos.... the ones from a yahama seca 650..... they produce up to 18 psi of boost and i think the ar ratio is like .42 and they spool up to 22,500 rpm safely.... so it should have full boost at like 1500rpm all the way up till redline i hope, if they both are set down to 7psi each than well.... im just dreaming lol this is all a long way off but its gonna happen.

[pandaew]

But better to reseelve your engine block before going to that high boost, D16 block is not a strong block for that. That's just my opinion.

[crxmobber]

you could strengthen it by using a good block guard. Also www.homemadetubo.com has alot of info on that stuff too.

[B18rex]

I'd go with a block guard, but have had heard very bad things happen when using one. If I decided to use one, i'd have the entire block sent somewhere to have it worked over. Some guys here have put them in themselves and caused the cylinder to go out of round and now they're popping head gaskets every two months.

[Dan-O]

A block gaurd won't help you at 18psi!

It only supports the top of the cylinder and the problem with that much pressure and a D block is further down the cylinder wall. Block posting would be an alternative, but the jury is still out on that idea. (too much side pressure on the cylinder, cylinder warping, coolant leaks, ect...)

18 PSI sounds cool on paper with the old adage, "Some is good--->More is better," but you'd be better off with a B motor if you're looking for holy shit power and a cost effective solution.
Swap in a B motor and boost that sucker a nice 10 PSI. I read somewhere that a stock GSR will make 314 HP properly tuned on streetable boost.
18 PSI is too high for a street car IMHO.
Maybe even a CR/VTEC hybrid?

Someone has a set of B mounts for s CRX in the classifieds right now. The money it would take to just buy a set of rods that will take 18 PSI would pay for the mounts! Then you just buy a B motor and you're already half way there.
Food for thought.

[Dan-O]

One more thing,
With the 450cc DSMs you are going to need some sort of fuel management as well. A FMU is only good for about 6-7 PSI of boost.
You might want to convert to a chipped PM6 from a 91 Civic/CRX and burn a EEPROM to work.
The next hurdle with boost is the MAP sensor. Our sensors are only good for about 10 PSI, the OBD1 MAP sensors will take like 12PSI.

Another alterntive is an APEXi S-AFC piggy back controler. Commonly called the "AFC Hack"
It tricks the ECU into taking lower readings than the motor is really seeing and adjust the amount of fuel. Very smooth transition from off-to-on-boost.

I've been doing my 'homework' these past few months because I'm turbo-ing my CRX right now.

The info is around, it just isn't in plain sight and takes hours to read, absorb and digest everything.

[LudeBehavior]

A garrett super 60 T3 I think would be too big, or at least to laggy for a lil 1.6.
They normally use those on old dodges 2.2-2.5 liter. Go for a .48 trim turbo won't be as laggy.

For fuel you could probally add extra fuel injectors onto the intake tract with a vacuum switch if ya wanted it to come on at a certain psi.

I always liked the vortech RRFPR's

[B18rex]

I was just thinking the DSM 450s with an AFC and the adjustable FPR like Dan-o said. But I will probably stick with the D16 just because of the price difference. All I want is a little over 200whp. I don't plan on going much over that level. If I wanted to, I'd just boost the b18 CRX I already have. This is just another budget racer. The only problem with my b18 is that it has solid mounts, not Hasport. It's not very good on the street even though it is street legal.

Can someone tell me what boost level I will need to run to hit my goal? Someone said 10psi. Does this sound about right? I guess everything will stem from that point. I will, however, be getting forged internals regardless. With 9:1 compression probably.

Edited by B18rex, 10 February 2004 - 10:46 AM.

[B18rex]

Swap in a B motor and boost that sucker a nice 10 PSI.  I read somewhere that a stock GSR will make 314 HP properly tuned on streetable boost. 

I have two friends with boosted B series. An integra GS-r and a civic with an LS. The civic is fully built and running 16 psi. He only hits 300whp. the integra is running 8 psi on a stock bottom end and hits 238whp. Either one would be lethal in a CRX, but would cost quite a bit. Both of these cars are tuned well and quick, but neither would be in my price range after the mounts and all the other crap you have to buy to stick it in.

[Dan-O]

It's funny, ONLY 300HP
I have a 4800 pound car that only makes 300HP and it is fast. A 1900 car with 300HP would be unbelievable!

I saw you user name and didn't know if it was true or not.
You're half way there since you alredy have a B motor!


Stiil, have you priced out rods and a new crank lately?
I say stick with the B motor.

The figures I was quoting were of course from the manufacturer with an unlimited budget and I'm sure tweaked to the finest point of tune there is.

FMU's are only good for 6-7 PSI, after that it's bad for the injectors because of the extremely high pressures.
I'm going the exact route like you with an adjustable FP regulator, 450's and an APEXi S-AFC. All I need is the S-AFC which I will have soon once the check clears for the D16A1 I sold.


Are you building another car, or would this be considered a 'motor swap'?

The guys at HMT say 10PSI is a good number for 200 WHP. Do a Google to see what others have to say.


Man I'm all over the place with my responses, hope I helped with the info.

Edited by Dan-O, 10 February 2004 - 11:26 AM.

[Dan-O]

OK, here's a real number to get your wheels spinning:
The Edlebrock D16 turbo kit boosts 6-7 PSI and puts out like 178 HP on a single cam D16 VTEC. It was in an Import mag. a couple months ago. (They blew the motor up 'cuz the waste gate stuck at 20 PSI, so buy a boost gauge!!)

10 PSI shoud allow you to hit pretty close to the 200 HP number you want.

I'm saying it again though, you already have the coveted B motor swapped in, boost that sucker at a nice 10PSI and HOLD ON!!!!!

Edited by Dan-O, 10 February 2004 - 11:22 AM.