7 replies to this topic

[Old School REX]

okay, so I have done this job myself twice. Both times I used some sockets a big hammer and a lot of elbow grease. both times 1 of the inner portions of the bearing race stuck to the hub as I hammered it out from the center of the bearing. I thought that this was a fluke and cut it off with a grinding wheel and managed to pry it loose without doing damage to the hub. I was just reading through the kakabox write up on how he did his front wheel bearings. And I noticed that he mentioned part of the center race staying with his hub as well.

is this something 1 should expect every time you remove the front wheel bearing?

I noticed that his method of removing the bearing race was much much better than mine. he used a bearing separator to get the race off of the hub shaft. He said he bought is at harbor freight. has anyone else used 1 of these before? I have to admit that I have never done so. from what I remember I don't see how anything could squeeze underneath the race in between it and the hub face.

I am also unclear as to how kaka got the new hub into the new bearing? Without the use of a press I have found that when you try to hammer the hub into the bearing you end up separating 1 half of your brand new bearing. does anyone else have a good description on how you can do this without the aid of a press? if I remember correctly the bering sits just slightly indented into the radius arm. So placing it on a flat surface would do you no good. Am I correct about this?

I'm just trying to clear up a few things so that I know I'm going to be able to accomplish the task easier this time around. the last time, what with all the cutting and messing around with the old the bearings , it took me 4 ever.

thanks in advance for any advice.

[Aren D.]

The inner race sticking to the hub is normal. As far as reassembly avoid using a hammer, I sure it's not good for your new bearings. If you don't have a press I would recomend you go to your local napa automotive machine shop, they can easily do it for you and it's worth the small price.

Otherwise I have no clue how you would do it with out a press.

[Greg Gauper]

Yes, having the bearing stick to the hub is a common issue.
You need something like this to remove the bearing:
http://www.harborfre...rator-3979.html

The important thing is to press on the outer race when you press the bearing into the knuckle, and press on the inner race when pressing the hub back on.
If you don't support the race correctly and press on the wrong race you will trash the bearing.

[anjin]

The inner race staying put is normal - happens everytime I do it. The bearing separator is worth it if you are doing this occasionally, or you are in a city with enough friends to share the equipment around. There is a nice sharp wedge that gets forced in to lift the race out.

As to fitting, I used a press at a local shop. I have also used the big hammer method. Helps to heat the knuckle in an oven and cool the bearing in the freezer to get the bearing into the knuckle. Then just drive the hub in. Not forgetting to insert the retaining clip before the hub goes in. That was a doh moment. Do check the hub surfaces - I have had a couple that had badly worn and were a loose fit in the inner bearing.

The hammer doesn't seem to hurt the bearing at all, particularly if you are careful so when you drive the bearing into the knuckle you only hit the outer part of the bearing, and when you drive in the hub the inner race is hard against the knuckle. That way you aren't transferring force to the other part of the bearing through the ball bearings and plastic spacers.

[EPcivic]

I always just use a big hammer, never had any problems. I have some special sockets that I've turned down on the lathe to perfectly fit the bearings to make it easier to do. For installation, I chill the bearings in the freezer, then heat the hub with heat gun. It really doesn't take that much force to drive a new one in.

-Chris

[badpenny]

I always just use a big hammer, never had any problems. I have some special sockets that I've turned down on the lathe to perfectly fit the bearings to make it easier to do. For installation, I chill the bearings in the freezer, then heat the hub with heat gun. It really doesn't take that much force to drive a new one in.

-Chris

I've done something similar, but got scared when I misaligned the socket, and switched to a bench vice with an old rotor for stability. Works great.

[Condor]

I just decided when the time comes (not sure how long these things last, I have 300k miles)
or the next time I have the car all apart, I'm going to take the hub and new bearings to
the machine shop.

[kakabox]

I am also unclear as to how kaka got the new hub into the new bearing? Without the use of a press I have found that when you try to hammer the hub into the bearing you end up separating 1 half of your brand new bearing. does anyone else have a good description on how you can do this without the aid of a press?

thanks in advance for any advice.

It's all in this post! http://www.redpepper...e...st&p=322799

Freeze bearing...heat housing...use BFH (w/proper knuckle support and wood blocks to distribute impact load). No problemo!

J.