8 replies to this topic

[civic4ever]

Hello guys. New development on the civic. Now Im really lost. I opened the carb to make sure it was really clean, assembled it and car started and after a couple of minutes later engine died. After that the cranking sound changed completely!! Now sounds more like a almost slow chugga-chugga and not the intense crank-crank-crank!! I said, OMG bent valves?? Checked battery and it was 12.49 V so I went to Pepboys they charged it and determined it was good. I also brought along a new set of spark plugs as mine were old and #2 plug was gas fouled(cause it was a dead plug). Put them in cranked the hell out it (sounding a bit more like usual cranking) and it started. I revved it until 2k rpm thru gas pedal and then went on to throttle and revved it again by hand and died again. Now is back to the chugga-chugga slow crank. It has fuel, fuel delivery test was done and is OK, T-belt is Ok as cam and crank perfectly align per FSM rules. 

This same car gave 210psi across all cylinders 2 weeks ago. I have not rn the car(as in driven) this was just in the garage. I decided to do the compression test again but cranking is not fast enough to measure them right. I did anyways and 1-2 measured 60psi?? The same engine that measured 210? Can something be damaged just by cranking? The new sparks were all removed after having fired and they came out clean as looking like never fired? Is that normal? I measured batt voltage while cranking and it never went below 10.4 v. All wires and grounds connected, fuses all look fine (not tested though) Alternator was charging when car fired up this morning. I even removed starter and tested it outside and plunger worked, not sure if with enough power, but it did? Could it be the starter? I rebuilt the starter 2 months ago? Im really getting tired. Regardless of carb issues(another story!!), it should crank normal, like when compression tests were done. Hope you can shed some light.

Thanks, Javier

 

[WhereIsMyWrench]

Hey Javier, 

 

You can take the starter off and have it tested at most auto parts stores. That's easy enough.

However, it doesn't explain the car stalling. My first instinct was that perhaps you have the plug wires crossed somewhere. Check to make sure you have the wires running from the distributor terminal to the correct plug/cylinder. My guess is that you have 2 crossed which explains the 2 cylinders measuring low on the compression test.
 

Post your results so users know if you still need help.

 

Good Luck,

 

Pat

[civic4ever]

Hello Pat. I have tripled checked the wires, and the thing is that it fired up before the carb issue with the same wire set up and then fired up again after reinstalling carb, died and then the no start problem, until it fired up again yesterday after recharging batt, but died again when revving it up. The 2 cylinders was a retest that I tried, cause these two same cylinders had measured 197 and 200 respectively a week before. But after the first engine death, the cranking sound changed dramatically and I decided to do it. Ill take the starter to the auto parts and see what they tell me. But, even with that faulty if all is OK: fuel, compression and spark, it should not die? Unless there is a problem with fuel distribution from the carb, not the pump. Ill keep you posted. I haven't tested nor changed wires. They should not measure more than 12kohms right?

Ill keep you posted.

 

Thanks!!

[Ed Funk]

Check all grounds and timing.

[WhereIsMyWrench]

Perhaps it could be a vacuum leak from the carb? If you just reinstalled carb and have been having issues since then, this seems logical. +1 to what Ed said. Grounds and timing too.

[civic4ever]

Timing, both mechanical and ignition is perfect. I turn over motor by hand and marks align perfect all the time. See, lets say that I have a perfectly timed car, good fuel, good compression, good spark (sparks are new) but a bad starter (my guess) I will not fire, unless pushed while releasing clutch, (which I have not tried yet). The other problem is carb related definitely, but with all other things Ok, it should even start with gas poured in at the cab throats, right? So I guess I have two problems at a time. Wires have not been tested either. I can jump it from another car and that would rule out 2 things: bad battery and starter. If it cranks OK, then battery is the culprit, if not then starter. Thanks for your suggestions, Ill keep you posted.

 

Javier

[Maine_Honda_Racer]

Sounds like bad grounds to me too.

[civic4ever]

Car feels like new. Started her about a week ago. I took the starter to Pepboys and also to an electro mechanic and both found nothing wrong with it. I disassembled the unit again and checked continuity and everything tested Ok. The only thing different I did was lightly sanded contacts and cleaned grooves between mica segments of the commutator. Also took neg battery cable out and cleaned the hell out of it. After that, vrooommm! So thanks for the guys who suggested to clean/check grounds.

 

Found 2 things though. Thermostat was not working OK (she used to overheat a bit just idling) I then removed it and now is ok (have to get OEM stat though). And there was a leak or so I think, at the brake booster. I noticed that when pressing brakes, idling would smooth out (was slightly misfiring) Isn't  the opposite suppose to happen?). I tested this by having a helper apply brakes while I was looking at the tailpipe and it would be like magic: Brakes on, misfire gone, brakes off, slight misfire and low idle. So as of now booster vacuum line is plugged until I get a new one or so. The thing is that now it idles perfect and just like it is suppose to do. Could not feel happier, although I have not test run her, but feels super a lot better. Ill post video later.

 

Thanks!!!

[civic4ever]

Here is a video a did of pictures of my rebuild from day one, back in summer 13. There are far more pictures but these I think give and idea of all I had to do.

 

 

Enjoy!!

 

PS: There are a couple of typos in some of the pics, but you get the idea.

 

Cheers!!