20 replies to this topic

[Red1908]

Hey guys, I have a EW1 civic sedan, car is not idling I need to keep the gas pedal press, had the head rebuilt and I put everything together. Does it has to be something related with timing? Vacumm leaks or what.. thanks in advance

[WhereIsMyWrench]

It could be either timing or a vacuum leak or both.

If you can get someone to help you, you can test for vacuum leaks by spraying around the intake manifold and carb mating surfaces with some carb cleaner while someone keeps it running. You'd have to try to maintain a certain rpm and then spray while listening for any rpm increase. That would indicate a vacuum leak. Also, try to just listen while you keep it running. A large vacuum leak will be quite evident.

 

As far as timing, obviously make sure the marks on the cam and crank are lined up as well as the distributor. 

 

Another possibility is that your carb isn't adjusted properly or needs to be rebuilt.

 

Personally, I'd ensure I got the timing right before I messed around with anything else. This will ensure that you aren't going to cause any damage while testing for other issues. At the very minimum, make sure you have it set right on the cam/crank side so you aren't causing damage to your newly rebuild head.

[Red1908]

Thanks alot! I will check for timing marks again first and then for vacumm leaks if problem persist. I will update info

[1985 CRX SI]

Are the valves adjusted right? If they are not all closing all the way it will not idle right.

[Red1908]

Yes, I took it to a machine shop and they had everything ready just to install it. Its a friend of mine.

[Red1908]

Anyone has a pdf manual link for this specific vehicle?

[shuttlecraft]

Did it idle before the head work?

[Red1908]

Did it idle before the head work?

It was, but timing belt broke and some valves bend on the head, so I had to rebuilt the head but now that is everything together it doesn't idle.

[shuttlecraft]

I understand that, been there on westbound I-696 at 80 mph.  I'll never take a belt past 30k again.  On removing the head from the engine, did you remove it as one assembly with the intake and carburetor?  Did you ever remove the carb from the intake manifold?  The procedure for head removal is to keep all the components together, including the control boxes, (some models only had one) then disconnect the head from the intake on the bench.  That way, almost all the hoses stay connected to the carb.  Could also be something simple like the accelerator cable wasn't reinstalled with the exact settings that it was before removal.  So if there's a little more slack in the cable now than previously, the throttle plate is in a more (or completely) closed position.  Ideally, the carburetor's adjustments should be established before attaching the cable.

[Red1908]

UPDATE: ok so I reinstalled the timing belt (Thinking it was retarded by a tooth or so) looks like the mark is aligned. But in case it isn't align by a little bit will the engine turn on?One more thing, I haven't done the timing with a timing gun (rotating the distributor while engine is on), does that matter? If so I'm down to buy a gun its like 30 bucks. So the car turned on and still not idling; actually when its cold it stays on for like 3 minutes till it gets hot but after that it dies (need to keep gas pedal pressed). Last time I checked there was a vacumm hose disconnected so I put back in place and it didn't do anything. Another thing idk if it has to be a problem this: but I noticed that engine shakes but not alot. And if I press the gas pedal to like 3000rpms it will not shake.

Notes: I didn't touched the carb or vacumming hoses except for the ones where the air filter goes, I just moved the manifold back a little bit to have space to remove the head. Thanks guys for your help next thing I'm going to do is to check for vacumm leaks just in case

[Red1908]

Are the valves adjusted right? If they are not all closing all the way it will not idle right.

I will check that as well

[Red1908]

It could be either timing or a vacuum leak or both.

If you can get someone to help you, you can test for vacuum leaks by spraying around the intake manifold and carb mating surfaces with some carb cleaner while someone keeps it running. You'd have to try to maintain a certain rpm and then spray while listening for any rpm increase. That would indicate a vacuum leak. Also, try to just listen while you keep it running. A large vacuum leak will be quite evident.
 
As far as timing, obviously make sure the marks on the cam and crank are lined up as well as the distributor. 
 
Another possibility is that your carb isn't adjusted properly or needs to be rebuilt.
 
Personally, I'd ensure I got the timing right before I messed around with anything else. This will ensure that you aren't going to cause any damage while testing for other issues. At the very minimum, make sure you have it set right on the cam/crank side so you aren't causing damage to your newly rebuild head.

Checked timing marks and they are good, today I will check for vacumm leaks 🤔 after work

[GeezRX]

Since the workshop manuals link here no longer works, try the one here: http://media.honda.c...nualCivic84-87/

from the "Full 1984 Civic Workshop Manual - 3/4 door" link you can choose:

from the Engine - Cylinder head/Valve train - Timing belt section -  you can verify that the timing belt installation/cam timing is correct.

from the Engine - Cylinder head/Valve train - Valve adjustment section - you can get instructions to adjust the valves (this needs to be done after the head has been installed on the block and cam timing set as per above)

from the Electrical - Timing section - you can get instructions to adjust the ignition timing to the correct settings.

[shuttlecraft]

Nice link GeezRX,  So yeah, follow the workshop instructions.  The cam pulley should have a couple of timing marks for positioning the cam correctly.  Keep in mind that because the engine sits at a slight angle, the pulley marks will follow the angle of the valve cover surface.  Valve adjustment is done on a stone cold engine.  Specs are .27-.22mm for intakes and the aux.  and .22-.27mm for the exhaust.  Highly recommend setting timing with a light.  Since you can't get the car to idle yet, just position the distributor midway.  That should be sufficient for getting it running.  Besides, timing on these cars should be done after the engine has warmed up and the all the thermovalves have gone through their warm-up sequence.  Timing is set at 750 rpm so basically you have to wait for the engine to warm up anyway.

 

It sounds to me like the engine is getting way too much air.  Check the intake air control system (also on the website), hose #8 coming directly from the plastic ports on the left side of the manifold (facing the engine).  That hose comes up to a check valve then splits off to the intake air sensor and air control diaphragm.  It that hose is open, the engine will do exactly as you've described.

[Red1908]

Nice link GeezRX,  So yeah, follow the workshop instructions.  The cam pulley should have a couple of timing marks for positioning the cam correctly.  Keep in mind that because the engine sits at a slight angle, the pulley marks will follow the angle of the valve cover surface.  Valve adjustment is done on a stone cold engine.  Specs are .27-.22mm for intakes and the aux.  and .22-.27mm for the exhaust.  Highly recommend setting timing with a light.  Since you can't get the car to idle yet, just position the distributor midway.  That should be sufficient for getting it running.  Besides, timing on these cars should be done after the engine has warmed up and the all the thermovalves have gone through their warm-up sequence.  Timing is set at 750 rpm so basically you have to wait for the engine to warm up anyway.
 
It sounds to me like the engine is getting way too much air.  Check the intake air control system (also on the website), hose #8 coming directly from the plastic ports on the left side of the manifold (facing the engine).  That hose comes up to a check valve then splits off to the intake air sensor and air control diaphragm.  It that hose is open, the engine will do exactly as you've described.

Thanks alot GeezRX That is some great information and I will follow up all this info and will update info asap



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