20 replies to this topic

[cbstdscott]

https://www.facebook...&type=1

 

There is no excuse, replace your ball joints/control arms RIGHT NOW. BTW- the occupants are OK.

[Andy69]

replaced them both yesterday along with the bushings.  They were pretty floppy and there was a very slight amount of up and down movement.  Having that hub fail a few weeks ago was a catalyst to get me to look at the other stuff.  I'll be replacing the tie rod ends when I install the new steering rack.

 

I was surprised to find the original rubber bushings on everything.  I would have thought with its racing history they would be poly at least.

[PuddleSkipper]

This is what I get when I click on the link to your pic:

 

"

This content is currently unavailable

The page you requested cannot be displayed right now. It may be temporarily unavailable, the link you clicked on may have expired, or you may not have permission to view this page.

• Return home "

 

I hate when people post facebook links on here for that reason. Just post a pic here please instead of a link that reroutes to facebook, unless this thread was only meant for your facebook friends, thanks.

[cbstdscott]

Yeah, that is my mistake. The picture I was trying to share is not "public."

The picture is of a wrecked 1st gen with a B series swap. The driver's side ball joint failed, the car hit the center median and now it is totaled.

Long story short, replace those old ball joints.

[niccer]

Was talking to Quinn about this several weeks back.  What was Honda thinking when the designed these ball joints?  If/when it fails, you're going to have a bad time.  Probably the biggest design flaw I've seen so far and am happy they inverted the ball joints on later models. 

[Stuckey85si]

I had driver side ball joint fail on me while going down highway 70 at about 55. It was ugly and also one hell of a ride. There are still gouge marks on the highway in Kinston from that learning experience.

It only takes about 2 hours for me to change both sides in my driveway. Its something I do about everything 50,000 miles with the road conditions around here.

And for goodness sake, if you ever hear them sqeak, creek, or at all "pop" they are about to give up the ghost.


Joseph

[Andy69]

I think a wise course of action for me is going to be to replace them annually, given they are subjected to what can no doubt be considered extreme abuse - 7" wheels with 225 r-comps and autocross events 15-20x per year.

 

Plus for the time being I drive to and from events.  Not ideal, but can't justify the expense of replacing my daily driver with a newer truck just yet.

Edited by Andy69, 30 September 2014 - 09:33 AM.

[phenams]

Yeah i seen the pic scott was referring too...i bought mine already but when i went to change them they didnt seem to be anything wrong with them but i might aswell replace them its better then replacing my whole car.

[cbstdscott]

I think a wise course of action for me is going to be to replace them annually, given they are subjected to what can no doubt be considered extreme abuse - 7" wheels with 225 r-comps and autocross events 15-20x per year.

 

Plus for the time being I drive to and from events.  Not ideal, but can't justify the expense of replacing my daily driver with a newer truck just yet.

 

While I am sure that you are putting some stress on your ball joints with that combination, it is your hubs that really take the stress with those wheels and tires.

[Andy69]

 

While I am sure that you are putting some stress on your ball joints with that combination, it is your hubs that really take the stress with those wheels and tires.

 

tell me about it.

[CSPCRX]

As sad as this is to admit, that I do not know.  Can you change the ball joint without changing the entire LCA?

Edited by CSPCRX, 01 October 2014 - 02:32 PM.

[Maine_Honda_Racer]

No you cannot.

[CSPCRX]

That's what I thought.

[greasemonkeyreborne 5x1g's]

Always been curious if these road failures are from blown boot causing ball to wear and pop out, or if the metal post actually shears? From a dd point of view.. Aftermarket or oem failures?

My beater still sports 27yr old lower arms, driven gently. Replace boots 2-3x over the years w honda oe. Still tight last time I checked.

I'm sure the guys on the track push these to the limit. How do they fail there on the track? Popped ball, or shear?

I'm concerned w replacing my japan part for a Chinese , or unknown sourced part/metallurgy to place on my dd. That is assuming my joint is still tight! I have to check it again.

[Andy69]

One thing to pay close attention to.  This is a problem with Ebay aftermarket BS spindles on the 68-72 GM A-bodies (Chevelle, etc).  The taper on the ball joint shaft holes is incorrect on the cheap Chinese spindles and causes shaft failure on the ball joints.  This happens because all the force is concentrated on one pointy edge of the shaft hole and the rest is air space which results in movement of the ball joint shaft and eventually failure at the contact point.  This isn't an exact problem on the CRX because there are no aftermarket Chinese spindles, but the possibility of incorrect shaft size or taper is something to be aware of.