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So, the seal between the master and booster has failed on my 3G Civic '84, so I have no brakes. Upon inspection, the booster is full of brake fluid up to the center hole where the master comes in. Now, under this situation, I experience no resistance pressing the brake pedal before it hits the floor. Does this indicate that the diaphram inside the booster is also bad, or just replace the master and all will be well (once I drain out all the fluid from the booster, and bleed the system)? Thanks in advance.
<edit: spelling>
Topics I've Started
My Devac
20 January 2012 - 03:13 PM
So I've jumped into it, and devac'd my car, a 1984 1.5 Civic. The problem before was rampant vacuum leaks, broken emissions systems, etc, which made the car un-drivable to the point where it would not idle when cold, and had to be held manually above 2000rpm to run (smoking wildly) at all times.
During the devac I found even more vacuum leaks, and am enjoying the streamlined engine bay.
I also opted to maintain the air-control system, as mentioned later in the devac sticky thread.
But, that being said, the work is not done. I am looking for a bit of help/diagnosis.
One question: the multi-valve looking things on the back bottom of the intake manifold (many small vacuum connections coming off, then say, 1/2" lead into the manifold on the other side), should I block these off? They are currently open (all the little connections). Also, is there an available bung to block the entire thing (say from ACE or someplace)? If so, could I get a name or part number?
The car runs currently as follows: idles very high when warm, and sputters/pops all the time. The thing has maybe 30% exhaust left and no muffler thanks to the rust gods, so its top-fuel dragster loud, with almost no exaggeration. The thing is louder than most huge diesel trucks at full tilt. I'm thinking the issue may be too much fuel/vacuum leaks from the open ports I mentioned beforehand. Is this correct in idea? Some things I've already looked at is that there are no other vacuum leaks except maybe at the insulator (big rubber brick), and the carb was rebuilt at some point in the past year or two, and seems ok. Its not flooding out, doesn't smell like gas or smoke, and the float is working and set at the correct level.
Also, I think its only getting ~30mpg, which is a bit low from my experience with this car. Any insight would be appreciated
During the devac I found even more vacuum leaks, and am enjoying the streamlined engine bay.
I also opted to maintain the air-control system, as mentioned later in the devac sticky thread.
But, that being said, the work is not done. I am looking for a bit of help/diagnosis.
One question: the multi-valve looking things on the back bottom of the intake manifold (many small vacuum connections coming off, then say, 1/2" lead into the manifold on the other side), should I block these off? They are currently open (all the little connections). Also, is there an available bung to block the entire thing (say from ACE or someplace)? If so, could I get a name or part number?
The car runs currently as follows: idles very high when warm, and sputters/pops all the time. The thing has maybe 30% exhaust left and no muffler thanks to the rust gods, so its top-fuel dragster loud, with almost no exaggeration. The thing is louder than most huge diesel trucks at full tilt. I'm thinking the issue may be too much fuel/vacuum leaks from the open ports I mentioned beforehand. Is this correct in idea? Some things I've already looked at is that there are no other vacuum leaks except maybe at the insulator (big rubber brick), and the carb was rebuilt at some point in the past year or two, and seems ok. Its not flooding out, doesn't smell like gas or smoke, and the float is working and set at the correct level.
Also, I think its only getting ~30mpg, which is a bit low from my experience with this car. Any insight would be appreciated
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