okay well im new here, crxfanatic hooked me up with this site, and i have numerous q's. first i have a built d16a1 thats in my drag race only integ. well ive gutted in completely and its still heavier than i would like so i want to put the motor in a 1g rex. so i need install advice and info. what parts do i need and about the wiring. heres the kicker though. i have a set of 45doce dual sidedraft webers that i want to put on this motor. i think it would make a bad azz race car. so i need to know also what a better shell would be an si or hf? keep in mind that the motor will be carbed so i should start out with a shell that is carbed also right? just for ease of install? i have a ton of other question s so let the posting begin!!!
TIA,
Brandon
1
Newb question about d16a1 in 1g rex
Started by fast2camciv, Jan 31 2003 07:42 PM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 31 January 2003 - 07:42 PM
#2
Posted 31 January 2003 - 09:22 PM
If you convert to carbed, you shouldn't have too much of a problem, since it's got vacuum advance, so yeah, get an HF. Those carbs with a built D16 should rip the track up. With the NOS, slicks, and dual carbs you should be doing low 12's for sure. If you want to stay FI then get an SI. Wiring is trivial. You need the complete teg drivetrain, of course, teg tranny and rear mounts, CRX front mounts, and I'd use the teg knuckles and axles. Other than that, you should be good to go.
"Toby, you are a thief of joy"
#3
Posted 31 January 2003 - 09:40 PM
#4
Posted 31 January 2003 - 10:09 PM
nope, rex subframe is fine...I would go Hf with the webers mostly cuz you have no need for the Fi stuff in the Si and the Hf is so much lighter.
#5
Posted 31 January 2003 - 10:50 PM
Perfect thats what i wanted to hear, uhm one thing though is what would be the best way to go about the ignition in that car(the hf) should i go with a crank trigger or should the stock distributor be enough? im looking to go pretty crazy with the compression and the timing since it is a drag only car. and also has anyone done this type of swap here and documented it? im wondering what kind of trials and tribulations im going to go through. The HF sounds like the car im gonna start looking for and i allready have the integ so i can scavage all teh parts i need off of that. and the NOS...well its a FI kit so i wont be using it on the rex right now. i may be looking to trade or sell it in the near future.
Thanxz!
Brandon
Thanxz!
Brandon
#6
Posted 31 January 2003 - 11:21 PM
There are at least a dozen people here who have swapped a D16A1 into a 1G. I've done it twice myself. Here are some old threads about it, although they may be more geared towards converting to FI from carbs:
http://www.redpepper...act=ST;f=2;t=35
http://www.redpepper...act=ST;f=2;t=42
http://www.redpepper...orum....0;st=20
http://www.redpepper...ct=ST;f=2;t=170
The stock distributor will be fine if you are not using NOS or turbo. If you can afford a crank-trigger kit, go for it...
http://www.redpepper...act=ST;f=2;t=35
http://www.redpepper...act=ST;f=2;t=42
http://www.redpepper...orum....0;st=20
http://www.redpepper...ct=ST;f=2;t=170
The stock distributor will be fine if you are not using NOS or turbo. If you can afford a crank-trigger kit, go for it...
"Toby, you are a thief of joy"
#7
Posted 05 February 2003 - 04:33 PM
guys i need to know something about this swap also....i have a 86 si that is DED and we got a 87 teg for free but the tranny seems to be fubar.....can i use the si trans on the d16a1?
#8
Posted 05 February 2003 - 04:49 PM
Ghostone - they are close, but no cigar for you on this one...sorry.
fast2camciv - if you are talking about running high compression motors with big lift cams and strong valve springs, I would encourage you to go to an Electromotive system for spark. In my race motors we run aroung 90 lbs of seat pressure on the valves (stock is between 20 and 25) and we measured plus or minus 2.5 degrees of timing change when taking it off the distributor. The cam bellt stretches and contracts because of my heavy valve springs and it was the onlt way to get rid of it.
Kirk
fast2camciv - if you are talking about running high compression motors with big lift cams and strong valve springs, I would encourage you to go to an Electromotive system for spark. In my race motors we run aroung 90 lbs of seat pressure on the valves (stock is between 20 and 25) and we measured plus or minus 2.5 degrees of timing change when taking it off the distributor. The cam bellt stretches and contracts because of my heavy valve springs and it was the onlt way to get rid of it.
Kirk