Crx Ac Installation Troubles
#1
Posted 24 March 2014 - 03:51 PM
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#2
Posted 24 March 2014 - 09:45 PM
what year car do you have? what car did the harness come out of?
#3
Posted 24 March 2014 - 10:09 PM
#4
Posted 24 March 2014 - 10:35 PM
so connect the red wires, that runs your compressor.
looks like someone cut the connector off the pressure switch. strip the ends and connect to the knife prongs on the pressure switch. you could temporarily strip the ends and twist them together to bypass the pressure switch. be careful if you do this. that switch shuts down the system for low pressure and prevent free running the system and possibly sucking in air if you have a leaks on the low side. and it protects high pressure if you have a blockage in the expansion valve.
#5
Posted 24 March 2014 - 10:37 PM
get caps on both shreader valves. those tend to leak. every little bit helps to keep your charge. make sure there's an oring inside the cap. You'll most likely have to go to an HVAC supplier. I bought a 10 pack in brass. .75cents each.
#6
Posted 25 March 2014 - 08:55 AM
I gave you misinfo on the pm about the sensing wire. I thought it was black,blue. It's blue w red stripe.
Checked over my harness near the sight glass. So the two wires are definitely for the h/l pressure switch. Don't solder to the knife blades on the pressure switch, there's an oring in there. You can get crimp connectors and some heat shrink for long term fix, for testing, use paper clips to hold the stripped wires in place.
From the pix of the red wire, that has to be the clutch. It comes out of the ac harness below the filter drier. It's a little thicker and originally came w a black braided sheathing. Fine the other end coming out of the compressor and connect them. If you want to test your clutch, aligator clip a jumper from the battery to the red wire coming out of the compressor, it will make a loud thunking click. You can actually make your ac run by doing this while the engine is running, but only for short test periods. All the safety features and idle boost will be bypassed and the cooling fans as well.
We talked about the idle boost. Facing the engine compartment, between the cylinder head cover and firewall to the right corner , drivers side, of the head cover. There will be a small metal and plastic numatic valve. It is a smaller red wire that goes to this. There's two vac hoses that go to the idle dash pot infront of the throttle body. So make sure that red wire is ther and in place. I want to make sure we don't have any confusion w the red clutch wire.
A properly working ac system will conduct a series of clicks and a thunk for the clutch. This all comes from the ac delay relay, the green module to the right of the glove box . Once the wiring is put together, the first test I'd do is turn the car to run w/o it running. Turn the fan to on to lowest setting so you can hear. Now press the ac button and listen for the clicks. If it does, the fire the car up and it should work.
If it doesn't, with the car off but key in run position, touch the blue,red wires at the pressure switch, if it clicks, then you most likely have low refrigerant charge, possibly a bad pressure switch.
That blue red wire is a ground wire that terminates to the ecu. If cut, the ac won't run. The pressure switch, thermostat and the climate control module (ac on-off button) I believe are the controls in the loop.
More info, but tell us what happens.
Be sure about what you are connecting, I did a radiator years ago and swapped the rad thermo connector w the rad fan connector (both harness boots are identical in size, shape, color, and even wire color.) by accident. Doing this blows the climate control portion of that cca's blue,red wire, and no ac. Very common mistake, one of my other cars had this problem done to it by previous owner. And it took a few junkyard climate control modules until i got one to work. I ended up pulling from cars that did not have ac so I knew I was getting a good module.
You asked about rebuilt kits. I updated a post on my concourse post in projects. There's 3-4 pages from a supplier. I couldn't get a hold of him, but it at least shows parts. And there are pix of Honda's sanded rebuild kits, 1) bearing kit, 2, seal kit. I have them, but have yet to rebuild. I can't help anymore in that area at this time unitl I rebuild one.
Also keep in mind the ac was added at the dealer. So the harness routing might vary from car to car.
#7
Posted 25 March 2014 - 10:38 AM
The last 3 pictures show the only red wire that connects to the compressor like common sense.
So the two blue red ones go to the pressure sensor switch and what about the last red one?
#8
Posted 25 March 2014 - 10:41 AM
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#9
Posted 25 March 2014 - 10:50 AM
Great pix, yep, your compressor is now connected. glad they didnot cut off that connector. That's the point of contact (red wire w black boot on compressor side) if you want to aligator clip to the battery to check the clutch.
So wire the blue/reds and follow the above and let us know what happens. Those pix give me confidence nothing will get shorted out. Thnx for the extra clarification.
Off to work and check in later tonight.
good luck
#10
Posted 25 March 2014 - 11:07 AM
I just relooked, so you do have a second red wire afterall.
Your compressor is done.
Ohm the end of that red (w/ the car off) wire thats cut per your pix, to the female red wire that goes to the compressor (rubber booted red wire, disconnect it first, there will be stray continuity going through the clutch to ground on the compressor side. That will let us know if that cut red wrie is the compressor wire cut inside the harness.
Now check the idle valve I mentioned. Is it connected? I have a feeling that wire (red thats cut off) fishes through the engine compartment between the washer tank, to the brake booster, along the firewall to the idle boost. At least its supposed to .
check voltage of the cut red wire w the car off, turn the key on, and then turn the a/c switch. don't let it touch ground/metal
#11
Posted 25 March 2014 - 11:34 AM
Heres the boot umolested to the pressure switch, you can see the blue/red wires in there.
Pix of the idle boost on fire wall on top of white napkin. The red wire is thinner here than the clutch wire and is what I believe is your broken wire. Another napkin is next to the washer tank. Thats where the boost red wire does. So this must be where yours originates.
#12
Posted 25 March 2014 - 01:38 PM
Richard,
got your pm, if you could, take a pix of the bottom of the radiator fan so I can see the harness splice there. I assume the modified connection was taken there to hotwire a replacement condenser fan. And take a pix of the hotwired condenser fan connection area from the front
Thnx d
#13
Posted 25 March 2014 - 02:35 PM
It can either be the ac switch, harness or relay right?
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