75 replies to this topic

[Smokescreem]

My Crx acts just like ballade's does.

[Condor]

I call BS! <insert scratching own eyeballs out> I call BS on my own demonically possessed car!

WTF.

I drove home yesterday well over the 3/4 mark.
I am certain it would have kept going too.

It is doing what the original problem was just slower.
Keep creeping creeping up until it boils over. (I did not let it get that hot)

At this point I have no idea what to do.

Maybe the people at Tao Honda are smarter and more experienced than me.
BUT I know for a fact they are not smarter and more experienced than the redpeppers.

[Condor]

OK. I took the bleed screw completely out. Nothing came out.
It seems like this is not normal.
I will think on it some.

I will definately now take the thermostat out and see what happens.

I can not imagine there is a blockage. I've had the entire engine apart.I
I've run the hose through it full blast way back.
Clean.

But I am now convinced the water is barely moving.

I can't believe it is the water pump. The old one looked OK.
I got the NEW one not remanufactured.

[ncdogcrx]

take out thermostat let us know what happens.

[ballade]

Silly question are you running a OEM Honda water pump?

[Condor]

No. At the suggestion of this site I got the Bosch with the spiral impeller.

I talked to the Honda guy this morning. He says I need to check the metal pipe
that runs along the back of the engine. I didn't think of this when we took the head off
that would have been the perfect time.

I am hoping this can be removed without taking off the injection manifold. That's a real PITA.

[alexm86]

An air bubble is trapped in your cooling system and causing your problems. It seems like everyone based their advice on you properly bleeding the cooling system, which you did not. There is a reason for the bleeder.

The bleeder is clogged between it and the housing. There is a very small hole behind the bleeder screw that you can unclog with a small drill bit. Easiest way is to remove that housing to fix it. The hole is at a weird angle so you cannot unclog it without removing it. Just use some Honda bond between the housing and the head when you put it back on.

Once you fix that, bleed the system. Follow the service manual instructions. That should finally fix your problem.

[Condor]

<sup>Thank you. I am following the directions to the letter.

That piece was boiled when I had the head rebuilt. (not saying it is not clogged).

I will still do it.</sup>

[Condor]

It was clogged. I changed it with my original one, confirming that both the
screw and the housing have no obstructions.

Man, I need this to work......

[ballade]

Dont give up!!! your getting close.

[Bubba]

The bleed screw does help you fill the cooling system more quickly after completely draining it (to do a water pump or thermostat), but any air bubbles in the system would already have flowed straight up through that open outlet fitting on the head and to the top of the radiator the first time the thermostat opened.

My "burp/bleed" procedure consists of turning the heat selector to "hot" and momentarily pulling off the innermost heater hose where it attaches to the thermostat housing. Then I put my finger over the housing side and wait until coolant comes out of the heater hose side. Then I reattach the hose. I figure that all air in the thermostat housing and heater core would have to be pushed out by doing it this way.

I am anxious to see if removing the thermostat helps.

[ballade]

Have you ever run Bar's Leak or any other stop leak product in your motor?

[Condor]

I have never put stop leak in the engine.

All pieces are new except the block.

I won't know until later today (wanted the hondabond to dry over night)

If it does not work then I will be back to experiments. I will not quit.

[Condor]

I went exactly by the book. Same thing.

I will try no thermostat tomorrow. I will also flush out that rear pipe and
make sure it is not obstructed.

Thing is, it is like it wanted to stay at 1/3 for a while (at idle with cap off).
It is after it fully heats up that it never goes back down.

[Bubba]

When you pull out the thermostat you should be able to run a wire straight down that rear pipe all the way to the water pump impeller.

Is the rad always full to the very top of the filler neck when you take the cap off after it is completely cooled off?

Edited by Bubba, 28 June 2012 - 05:11 PM.