291 replies to this topic

[drakos]

epic build..

 

just can not help to feel a bit sorry for the car

[Dirtcircle86]

Nah! Don't feel sorry for it. The kid i got it from was about to run it to the grinder.

Right rear mashed and pushed up about an inch.
Right front lower core support caved in.
Patched header panel. Fenders are sweet tho.
Three different colors.
Blown head gasket.
Leaking water pump.
The hail damage on the hood and roof looks like a wild pack of gorillas took turns with a ball peen hammer.

The best part is I traded a twenty year old leaky 1man plastic bass boat and a non running chainsaw for it.... I think he got a good deal.

I think I can get a few years of dirt racing out of it as apposed to recycling it. I really can't think of a better way to go out.

[Dirtcircle86]

Forward progress. I don't really think this piece is necessary for the booster delete but it does have two usable studs on it.



I used one of the long studs for a plunger rod. Not yet cut to length. 4 1/8" was the final length I think.



The last time I tried to left-foot-brake it, I couldn't find the damn pedal. So a larger pedal is needed. To make room, I leaned the clutch to the left.

[Dirtcircle86]

Used part of the Teg brake pedal.



And a bit of diamond plate aluminum. I use it for everything.



Paint.

Edited by Dirtcircle86, 15 February 2014 - 11:04 PM.

[Dirtcircle86]

Did a little BFH clearancing on the floor/inner fender to make room for the new clutch pedal location.



Got the M/C installed



And the steering wheel.

Edited by Dirtcircle86, 10 March 2014 - 11:23 PM.

[Dirtcircle86]

I stuck the seat in so I can sit in it and make engine sounds. Actually, so my young wifey could pump the brake pedal while I bled them.



And just cause I wanted to. I already added a visor at the top of the windshield. It might actually divert some of the rocks and dirt that normally come in the cab during a race.

[Dirtcircle86]

Just some pix. After soaking with engine degreaser and pressure washing. Not the result I hoped for.



I really didn't expect to see good numbers. I have questions in another thread.

Edited by Dirtcircle86, 16 February 2014 - 08:38 PM.

[Dirtcircle86]

Mundane shit really, as I trudge on alone. . . . I am amazed though.



This is my second high mileage (247,000) Honda to disassemble, and honestly, I probably shouldn't have. Monday, I will order Honda bearings and get it back together. March 16 is opening day but I have no disillusioned about getting to run then. Visible wear, but not measureable with a vernier caliper.



I got a drinkin buddy in the mechanic bidness (Toyota now) that can get OEM parts at cost+10% so maybe I won't get sticker shock.

I noticed the rear tranny mount has a bit more rubber (insert your own humor, if you actually read this) as I was prepping for 3M window weld.

Edited by Dirtcircle86, 10 March 2014 - 11:25 PM.

[Dirtcircle86]

I stole this from the Kakabuild.



More chitty welds.



And some foil tape.

[Dirtcircle86]

And viola, all goobered up.



Especially this one. There didn't seem to be an easy way to do this one but I think it will work. I just kinda formed it up with the foil tape and filled it up. The rear tranny mount should push down under heavy acceleration so I think it will be solid.

[Dirtcircle86]

Since I know there are two people interested in this thing, I decided to update a little. Did a "repair panel."



Cleaned up the rear end and added a vent.



IACV delete.

[Dirtcircle86]

New bearings and shimmed the oil pump .160". We'll see how that goes. New Gates timing belt.



In the car.



Found a torn boot and bum outer driver's side CV joint. 2 boot repair kits were gonna be close to $40 so I got a re-man unit from Oreilly's for $52. Exhaust installed. Dash is close to being installed. And now the fun part! Be afraid. be very afraid....



It's not that bad really, just connect the dots. I think thers a good 6 or 8 lbs of spare wire to lose here. Maybe more.

[Dirtcircle86]

Aight, dishere is yer redneck, dirt track, war tuck.

Translation: I tucked wires.



Went ahead and used the CRX radiator for simplicity. The Teg and CRX seemed to be the same thickness but the Teg was a tad wider, whereas, the CRX was an inch or two taller. I re-used the 16" Winnebago pusher fan. With the EW it would only run a couple of seconds and cycle off. I expect about the same from the D16. Current goal is to get the under-dash wiring finished and battery installed in the next couple of days and fuel cell/lines installed this weekend. I've already missed 2 nights this year but theres no races this weekend. I'm shooting for track time on the 13th.

[Dirtcircle86]

Got the throttle and clutch cables in last night.  Installed the dash harness and ECU (not connected to power/switches yet) and decided to check the valve lash.  I still aint buying that this motor has 247,000 on it.....  Cam journals were ridiculously clean.  I'm wishing I had left the Honda bearings in the bottom end.  Probably tighter than the Kings I installed.  Anyway, looks like someone adjusted the intake lifters to .002.  some were a hair tighter but couldn't get a .003 feeler under any of them.  Exhaust were at .006.  one was about .005 so I backed it off.  It ran flawlessly but I went ahead and backed the intakes off to .005.  It WILL run this weekend. 

[Dirtcircle86]

Yep, I pulled a retard move.... As usual. For some reason I didn't think the EACV delete threw a code. WRONG! Wiring is not done yet but I found in the FSM that it will throw a 14 code. I just gutted the EACV, removed the solenoid, and wired it in near the ECU. Similar to the ELD. Damn wiring... I know it's jus a race car but I want to keep the CEL happy.

Odds of racing on the 13th are slim. Ain't givin up!