You Want To Put A 88+ Dseries Into A 1g/3g
#46
Posted 01 May 2012 - 06:40 AM
#47
Posted 10 May 2012 - 04:20 PM
well worth it
#48
Posted 14 May 2012 - 06:59 PM
http://www.redpepper...t EW5 D16A8.jpg
http://www.redpepper...W5 D16A8#2 .jpg
I had two Gen1 crx's, two spare gen 1 crx harnesses, and two gen 2 crx's to look at. Can't say they were all the same, surprising little differences between them. Couple of wires I still am not sure what they actually do. But this wire-up is working.
It is basic. No air conditioning, no idle control solenoid, no atmospheric pressure sensor, no ELD. I did use a D16A8 engine harness to supply the extra bits needed. And rather than swap engine bay pin connectors around I ran the new wires separately from the sensor/dissy to the ecu, with separate connectors at the firewall.
Adding ecu A connector pins was difficult, as I found the connector A pins to be different profiles between cars about 6 months apart on build date. I needed to physical deform pins so they made contact consistently. Check the end profiles of anything you use to see if they suit or can be made to suit.
Other than that its patience, and a lot of practice depinning connectors. They are an art rather than a skill.
"I can't believe it - Ive just been passed by a sh!tbox"
#49
Posted 07 August 2012 - 07:56 PM
- Turbocivichatch likes this
#50
Posted 07 April 2013 - 01:08 PM
First time posting here, hi!
I'll be getting a D15B with E V-Tec(?), it's unconfirmed as to what honda it came from exactly, and this will be very valuable info.
I'll make a thread about it when it gets kickin', Lord knows I'll need the help then.
Thanks!
#51
Posted 07 April 2013 - 10:26 PM
First time posting here, hi!
I'll be getting a D15B with E V-Tec(?), it's unconfirmed as to what honda it came from exactly, and this will be very valuable info.
I'll make a thread about it when it gets kickin', Lord knows I'll need the help then.
Thanks!
You mean V-TEC E? It's the JDM version of the D15Z1. I am doing the same swap but I am doing it with the D15Z1 trans so I am also using the Hasport mounts.
#52
Posted 16 February 2014 - 11:30 PM
i have done this conversion on my 86 1.3 auto, i used hasport mounts, clutch conversion, std short shaft, and a shortened long shaft (removed the circlip and took about 25mm of the shaft). a d series linkage shortened about 12 inches, i made the loom from a civic esi, i use the car everyday, its nippy to say the least, the mounts are amazing, they fit perfect, i would say it wasnt much harder than a eg b16 conversion in the uk on a d15b2 eg,
well worth it
25 mm is about 1", The Hasport custom length shaft is 1 3/4" shorter than the stock Driver's side cv shaft.
#53
Posted 12 March 2014 - 08:40 PM
i never measured exactly, i do remember removing the circlip totaly from one side, it was a case of trial and error, what i can say my car was a auto, and im sue it had a shorter long shaft, but i can say i never had any bother with the shafts after the conversion.
#54
Posted 16 March 2014 - 03:53 PM
i never measured exactly, i do remember removing the circlip totaly from one side, it was a case of trial and error, what i can say my car was a auto, and im sue it had a shorter long shaft, but i can say i never had any bother with the shafts after the conversion.
You said you shortened the longer shaft, was it the axle for your 86? I'm having issues with my axle popping out so I'm trying to see if its length related.
#55
Posted 05 November 2014 - 09:34 AM
#56
Posted 05 November 2014 - 11:43 AM
You could just add a bunch of wires for the Vtec solenoid, 4 wire O2, Vtec oil pressure, extra wires for the distributor, auto tranny wires, ect and just run them from your y8 wire harness to the proper pins on an OBD0 to OBD1 ECU jumper harness OR buy an 88-89 Integra harness which is OBD0. You'll need the main harness, dash harness, and engine wire harness. If your sticking with auto then you'll want to find an auto wire harness. Some wiring will need to be removed like for the retractor headlights, cruise control if you don't want it and it has it, ect stuff you don't think you'll need. Mostly wires will either have to be shortened or stretched to get them to the right places on your car. I've layed the Civic SI harness on top of the Integra and it is really close. The only problem I see is mounting the Integrated Control Unit. Maybe you could just stuff it behind/above the bottom plastic that the buzzer is mounted to. Keep your old harness till your done, you may need to borrow plugs off of it if you go that route.
#57
Posted 06 November 2014 - 03:14 PM
Are you planning to run the ecu that came with the d16y8? I've put the 99 CR-V auto harness into my 3G Civic, but did convert it to manual by removing the auto related control wires and gear indicating wiring.
It is a lot more work if you plan to run the stock OBD-2 ECU and want it code free. I've added fuel tank pressure sensor, secondary O2 sensor among others to the car to get it working right, but I also added cruise control and keyless entry. If your donor is an EX you may be also to add some of that too.
When working on the wiring I found the electrical trouble shoot manuals for donor and receiving car to be priceless.
Screech
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16 Ford RS (2.3l, DS)
84 Civic 2000S (B20Z2 2.0l, SMF)
#58
Posted 11 November 2014 - 05:15 PM
Edited by Turbocivichatch, 11 November 2014 - 05:17 PM.
#59
Posted 11 November 2014 - 05:19 PM
#60
Posted 12 November 2014 - 09:26 AM
There is only 1 o2 sensor on the engine harness, the 2nd one, after the "cat", is on the chassis harness, without it there will be codes with the OBD2 ECU.
I can't help much on the sending unit to use in that trans for the cable drive on the stock speedo, I used the VSS driven speedo from the CR-V in mine. For the tach though, there should be a wire on the engine to chassis harness connection for that signal.
- Turbocivichatch likes this
Screech
------------------------
16 Ford RS (2.3l, DS)
84 Civic 2000S (B20Z2 2.0l, SMF)